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Apparently my right turn signal "relay" (I think that's what it's called) has gone bad. A blinking signal is coming in to the relay, but the relay is not activating (clicking) like the left one does. Here is a picture of it.....there are no identifying numbers on it. Is this a standard off the shelf part, and should I be able to find it at Napa, Autozone, O'Reilly, etc? There are three of these on the back panel....one for left turn, one for brakes and one for right turn.

Thanks!
I can't see why another similar one wouldn't be the same. Make sure to match up the prongs if it plugs in.
those metal can relays are not available anywhere i have been able to find and not necessary. the standard plastic can ones are fine. i know there are lots of feelings about name brand vs non name brands and you have to decide yourself. i ordered some hella relays and they were made in china.

the relay you need is a SPST single pole single throw. 30 or 40amp will be fine. you are not drawing lots of power. they are under ten bucks at any auto store.

it is a 4 pin relay. in the new relay configurations the pins are labeled the same for all manufacturers. they as follows. you only need a 4 pin relay so 87a will not be on it. if it was on it, you just wouldnt hook it up. so it can be used if needed.

not to confuse you, but there is another config that i used on my headlights. it is a dual 87 relay and it gives you outgoing power to 2 loads (left and right headlights in my case) without splitting the wire. they are not usually avail at autoparts stores.

so, at autozone or checker or napa or whatever autoparts store. just get a SPST 4 pin relay with NO diodes or resistors. it will tell you if it has a diode or resistor on the packaging.

autozone has several ones.

the pinout of the new relay is

-30 = constant [positive (+)] power (usually wired directly to car battery)
-85 = coil ground (wired to the negative (-) battery terminal or any grounded metal panel in the car)
-86 = coil power (wired to the control source. could be a switch, or it could be the car's IGN or ACC circuit.)
-87 = switched [positive (+)] power output. (when the relay coil is powered, lead/pin 87 is connected to lead/pin 30)
-87a = [on 5 lead/pin relays only] this lead/pin is connected to lead/pin 30 when the coil is NOT powered.

here is the bottom view of a standard 4-lead Bosch-style automotive SPST relay [attachment=110]

here is what happens inside the 4-lead/pin SPST relay. on the left, the coil is NOT powered. on the right, the coil IS powered. notice the switch changes positions when the coil is powered. when the coil is powered, pins 30 and 87 are connected. when the coil is NOT powered, then pin 30 is not connected to anything, therefore it is in the 'off' position. [attachment=111]

i figured i would show this for those who dont have alot of experience with relays. they are quite simple and easy to use. the reason for them is simple. if you are running alot of current, it is really hard on switches. so you let the relay handle the high current and you use your switch power the relay and it takes very little power to turn the coil in the relay on and off preserving the contacts on the switch. a good example is headlights. on my 1990 newell wired them up directly from the headlight switch. i added relays to take the heat off of the switch. my 2002 had that done alreday (though with the smart wheel is wired quite strangely).

there are basically 3 configs of relays commonly used. a 4 pin that switches one leg to one output. a 5 pin that provides two switched outputs (dual 87, like used on headlights), and a 5 pin that has an 87 and 87a output. the 87a is normally closed allow power to get through all the time and 87 is only powered when the trigger is switched). you can use this relay in place of the 4 blade one and just NC (no connect) the 87a.

hope this wasnt confusing.

tom
the way newell wired most of these relays where there are multiple relays in the same location was to daisy chain the 12v power leg that comes from the battery from relay to relay. easy to tell is because the center blade is a double and has power coming in and then they chain it over to the next relay. so, the new relays will not have this double lug. you can either get the single to couble blade adapter or make a Y pigtail to plug into the relay and to the two power wires.

tom
Yes, take it to the NAPA counter. :-)
OK....was out site seeing today, but just got back and saw Tom's post, etc. In the first picture in my first post the right bottom pin, right top pin and the left top in all have power all the time (when the ignition is on) before the turn signal is initiated. When I initiate the turn signal the right bottom pin power goes on and off, and the left top should begin to do the same thing, and, of course the relay should start clicking. The right top pin stays constant with power in both scenarios. The two center pins seem to be grounds....there is no power to them on any of the three relays.

My question is which is the trigger wire? I'm guessing the right bottom as it has a signal and the left top does not, and based on my conversation with Tom we think this relay is set up in the open position. I'm still a little fuzzy on this so any observations will be appreciated.
One more thing....I just switched the left turn signal relay with the right, and it (the good left one) works on the right side, so it is nothing to do with the wiring. It is, obviously, the relay.
then pick up a relay with an 87a on it. a 5 pin so you can have to option of having a normally closed contact.

tom
I had the same problem with the turn signal relay that controls the left turn to the towed car. A sharp smack from a small hammer fixed the relay. Cheap fix, and I always try a little "kick in the ass" before replacing an elctrical component.
(08-18-2012, 07:48 PM)Chester Stone Wrote: [ -> ]I had the same problem with the turn signal relay that controls the left turn to the towed car. A sharp smack from a small hammer fixed the relay. Cheap fix, and I always try a little "kick in the ass" before replacing an elctrical component.

Hey Chester...I actually opened up the relay and nothing is stuck. The arm goes up and down, but some reason there is no magnetic field being generated to pull the arm down and make contact to close the circuit (allow the signal through). Before that I did try banging on it to see if that helped.....sometimes that does work....it didn't this time.
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