Hello folks,
Need some help. Time to turn my attention to some of the air systems inside.
2 of my 3 air pocket doors open and close with a "bang" at the end of the travel.
The door leading to the bedroom does not make any noise. Operates smoothly.....but the bedroom to rear bath bangs, and the rear closet door bangs as well.
Can not figure out what is causing that cylinder or mechanism to make that noise. It is like a metal clank on a striker plate. Both when closing and then on opening.
I watched and felt the air solenoids when the door is operated. They allow the air to go through fine and at the end of the travel the cylinder bangs...the very end. No bang in or near the solenoid...all up by the cylinder inside the upper door....of course.
I am running about 25 psi on both regulators that feed the slide seals and toilets.
Are the doors fed by a different regulator somewhere ?
I am hooked to power, inside a building and the 110V compressor is active maintaining about 90 psi in the Aux air system.
The compressor starts when the air gets down to about 75 psi, runs for 1.5 min and shuts off when the air gets to 90 psi. It cycles about every 3 hrs, so I know there are some leaks I have to attack.
Any ideas ? Anybody has had this happen to theirs ?
Thanks for any suggestions
Marius, the air compressor cycling every 3 hours is not bad at all. Yes, you have a slow leak but Newell typically considers cycling more often than once every 45 minutes to be an issue that needs to be addresses. I don't have pocket air doors so I can't help with the banging issue but I am certain you will get some informed responses.
If you want to verify that all three doors are operating at the lower air pressure, you could turn off the 110v compressor, dump the air bags, drain all air, turn on the 12v little compressor to see if all three doors are getting their air from the low air system. Just thinking out loud.
(12-15-2016, 06:55 AM)InfiLights Wrote: [ -> ]Hello folks,
Need some help. Time to turn my attention to some of the air systems inside.
2 of my 3 air pocket doors open and close with a "bang" at the end of the travel.
The door leading to the bedroom does not make any noise. Operates smoothly.....but the bedroom to rear bath bangs, and the rear closet door bangs as well.
Can not figure out what is causing that cylinder or mechanism to make that noise. It is like a metal clank on a striker plate. Both when closing and then on opening.
I watched and felt the air solenoids when the door is operated. They allow the air to go through fine and at the end of the travel the cylinder bangs...the very end. No bang in or near the solenoid...all up by the cylinder inside the upper door....of course.
I am running about 25 psi on both regulators that feed the slide seals and toilets.
Are the doors fed by a different regulator somewhere ?
I am hooked to power, inside a building and the 110V compressor is active maintaining about 90 psi in the Aux air system.
The compressor starts when the air gets down to about 75 psi, runs for 1.5 min and shuts off when the air gets to 90 psi. It cycles about every 3 hrs, so I know there are some leaks I have to attack.
Any ideas ? Anybody has had this happen to theirs ?
Thanks for any suggestions
I have a similar problem. The air pressure was set at 45psi. I adjusted the air pressure and dropped it down to about 35. This seemed to help the door noise. HOWEVER my air system is also connected to the toilet. When I lowered the air pressure the toilet did not operate correctly. I read the manual on the toilet and it says to operate at 60 psi. Unless I separate the air door from the toilet, I am not sure I can correct my door noise.
Not sure if I remember but doesn't the door ram (or is it the solenoid?) have an adjustment or 2 on it?
I had that problem with my step cover. You should have adjustable exhaust air mufflers on the slide valves. They look like this.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#pneumatic-mufflers/=15hi461
Adjusting down the exhausted air will slow down the cylinder and you can get to an acceptable speed range without cutting pressure in system. Each door should have a slide valve that operates the pocket doors and the step cover.
I found that by installing two air pressure regulators in the bay by the 12V compressor solved the problem. One controls the air doors and the other the toilet. I have the air doors set to around 40 psi and the toilet set to 65 psi. Works great.
Thank you.
I took some suggestions and turned off the 110V compressor. Bled the pressure and found out that they stop knocking at around 45-50 psi.
The mufflers do nothing for the knock, just adjust the bleed pressure which controls the speed of the doors.
What is puzzling is that one door is fine, no knocking, and 2 are knocking at the higher pressure.
Next thing to try is the pressure regulator(s) on the 12v compressor as suggested above and see what I can accomplish.
The Aux compressors run 3 things - slide bladders, toilets and pocket doors.
The regulators installed before the slide bladders are set at 20 psi.
I know I have a check valve and pressure gauge on the 12V compressor manifold which receives air from the 110V compressor as well. I can see on the gauge that the pressure is about 40 psi when the 12v unit runs alone based on demand. As soon as the 110v compressor gets juice the pressure will go up to 70 psi.
Will have identify which lines go to toilets, which ones to pockets doors and maybe add regulators there...or....get 50 psi inline regulators that I install before the 4 way Ingersoll Rand (Norgren) valves that control each door that knocks...leave everything else be.....right ?
Marius
This sounds like a mechanical issue that is exaggerated by higher closing
Speeds. I would look at how
The door is mounted to the cylinder to
Check for slop
I don't think your problem is tied to air pressure. First, let's look at the mechanism that operates the door. It is an air cylinder with a very strong magnet on the ram internally. The external portion of the cylinder has a slide that is magnetically coupled to the magnet inside. See:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#rodless-air-slides/=15iauxw , this is not the brand Newell uses but similar. the door is connected to the external slide.
If an object restricts the door, the slide uncouples from the magnetic field. It still works but now the magnetic field is not inside the slide rather on one or the other end and as the door reaches the end of it's travel , the magnetic field moves through the carrier (slide) to the other end and slamming against the end of the cylinder (inside).
How do I know all this? Mine was doing the same thing and while at Newell, years ago, I went to door slide school. The guys on the manufacturing side were perfect instructors even coming over to the service side helping fix my door. My rod slide was behind a horizontal mirror above the door. That was my problem with access but he used a cake knife to slice the adhesive to remove the mirror. That gave him access to the carrier and by hand , he was able to position the slide back over the center of the magnetic field. If you've ever toyed with magnets trying to hold them together as they are trying to repell will give you some idea of the operation. the slide rests in between two opposing fields.
At least that's my take......