Hey guys, I'am in the process of upgrading to Newell #467 from #381 and I'am having issues on the salon slide when I try to retract it. When I extend it, everything works fine and the pins engage, but when I try to retract it, everything works fine except the pins won't engage when its fully retracted. It is a 1998 model year with the HWH slide system. I have tried this cycle with engine on, engine off, batteries merged etc. I was trying to figure out if the solenoid for the "lock" is for slide-in and slide-out, or if there were separate lock solenoids for in and out. Thank you all in advance
There is only one lock solenoid for the salon slide. It should work for extend & retract.
Here is just a thought about how I think it works.
When the slide is retracted it moves in until either one of about three things might happen.
It's contacts the limit switch - located in the ceiling of a bay under the slide.
Or, you stop holding the retract switch down.
Or, it reaches the end by some mechanical means, like contacting structure or reaching the end of a cylinder.
It is my thought that only when the limit switch is reached and sends that signal to the controller, will the sequence advance to extending the locking pins.
So, could it be you are not reaching the limit switch properly? Or, the LS could have failed. Worth checking out I think.
Russ
I may be mistaken, but I think the locking pins work only when the slides are retracted. Why lock them when extended?
Chester - that is my thought as well, but since the OP is asking for help on retraction we can pitch in with our thoughts on that. Russ
its like everything else newell. there are so many different hwh slide controllers and setups on the newells that operate differently.
some engage the locking pins when the slide is extended and when it is retracted. mine only is supposed to engage the pins when retracted.
so use limit switches to determine when the slide pins should engage and mine uses round disc magnets that are glued on top of the slide next to the slide pin hole. then there is a sensor on the slide pin unit that detects the magnet and puts the pins down.
you have to be careful playing with all of this or you can punch holes in the top of your slide. the hydraulic pins go through the top like it is paper. dont ask me how i know.
i am having troubles getting my bedroom slide pins to engage. i will start working on it in the next week or so inside when i get the coach back in the shop.
btw, both hwh and newell say the slide pins are not necessary. that the hydraulic ram holds the slide in just fine. in fact, many hwh slide rooms in other brands do NOT have slide pins to lock them in.
what i notice is that slide pulls in a little farther from the outside of the coach and the slide pins when they engage push the top of the slide out flush with the coach side walls on the outside.
i drove all the way back from alabama with no slide pins engaged on the bedroom slide with no issues.
tom
Tom - I like your post! It is exactly what I have been thinking about doing, but just didn't know HWH and Newell had a position on it.
As you may recall, over time when I retracted the salon slide the top came through the wall before the bottom aligned with the wall and the limit switch. At that point, if I continue to hold the switch, the pins would attempt to extend, but could not since the hole had already passes below them. The area around the hole was strong enough from the weld not to allow the pins to penetrate the top - thankfully. I then visited the factory - twice - and they tried all their tricks and each time I left it worked as desired a few times before reverting to the top coming in too far. I have been forcing the top back out mechanically and hydraulically with extensions inside between the two walls and I get the pins to go it. But, I am noticing that puts the slide in a bit of a bind and the clearances between the slide and the coach are no longer very uniform. On one recent attempt to extend it refused to move. I did the retract/extend and got the pins to release and it seemed to pop into a more central position to the coach on the places I could see. That is when I started thinking about just stopping the process before the pins tried to extend.
I knew from some prior experience that a leaking HWH solenoid valve could result in slide movement out while traveling as the bottom would creep out. But after replacing both solenoids it no longer moved at the bottom. So unless some guru writes it about his slide extending into the fast lane and getting ripped off by a passing 18 wheeler, I'll give it a try next time.
Thank you all for your responses, I will look for and test the limit switch. If I had known about it I would have tested it before I came here for help. Looking at the top of my slide, it looks like it has been repaired from the pins punching thru as there are 2 strips of aluminum that are the width of the slide. In the past, when I would retract it, the pins would engage after the slide stopped moving and I held the "retract" switch in the entire time.
You might remove the cover from the HWH box. It should have a diagram printed on the inside. You may have to move one of the circuit boards out of the way, but HWH was kind enough to add red and yellow diodes to the different circuits to indicate what was going on. The only tool we don't have is the logic algorithm.
On the printer diagram you shou be able to identify which terminal is associated with the slide lock solenoid. Have a helper actuate the slide and watch the lights as the slide goes through its cycle.
As Russ said the limit switch may not be making, or the fuse could be blown for the lock solenoid, or the relay could be bad for the lock solenoid, or the relay itself could be bad. It's just going to take some detective work with a voltmeter to figure it out.
Have you downloaded the HWH 600 series manual yet from the HWH site? In addition to the diagrams printed on the cover, it will also have the wire numbers that HWH used for all the interface with the coach. Very useful when troubleshooting