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I have no problem with it getting up to temperature on electric or diesel. But my hot water has started to run out. Boiler antifreeze is within levels. Return hose from aqua hot and cap are hot. I have just adjusted the mixing valve see if that helps.. I have been running off of shore water and it is colder now obviously due to temperatures dropping. Does any one think having a starting temp from the tanks versus shore water would be the issue. Or what else could it be?

Make sure the radiator filler neck is lipping full, not just the overflow tank.

The hot water heating spec is 55 degree temp rise at 1.5 gal/min. Low ground water (40) will result in 95 degree hot water which will not please Mom.
Thanks Rudy. The adjustment on the mixing valve may have solved my problem. Is that something you normally adjust throughout the year when using shore water?

Rudy may jump in here and give you better information, but here is what I have found....

If the AH system is working properly, you should not have trouble getting and maintaining hot water (regardless of the outside temperature).  (Of course that is a big IF)

To answer your question is the relationship between input temperature and how many Gallons per minute you can consume while maintaining 115F water at the output.  AH recommends no more than a 1.5 gallons per minute shower head.


In my experience, the key to having plenty of hot water is having enough antifreeze in the tank.  I know that you said you have plenty, but if you are just reading off the bottle, you may get a wrong answer.  Use a piece of tape and mark the level on the bottle, then turn off the electric AND diesel heating.  Let the tank cool down for a few hours.  If you don't see the level change, then you probably have a leak in the hose that goes from the radiator cap to the bottle.  Once it is cool, carefully open the radiator cap.  With a ruler or some similar device measure  the coolant level.  I suspect you will find it low.  Top it off with DISTILLED WATER.

Also, your mixing valve may be broken and only allowing cold water through, but I would not think that would change with the amount of usage.

In the short term, you could convert to using tank water and turning up the bay heaters to "pre-heat" the water.

Here are the things that were wrong with my AH when I bought the coach...
- Leak in tank about half way down allowed coolant to constantly leak under coach
- Leak in neck of tank where the flange attached to hold the radiator cap
- Leak in hose that went to bottle
- Bad mixing valve
- Bad shower temperature select cartridge
- Webasto blower motor was bad and needed to be rebuilt
I have found that internal tank vs shore water makes a huge diffference in how long the water lasts. The second thing that makes a huge difference is flow rate.

If it's winter and I want a long shower, I make sure I run off the tank and I throttle the flow rate back with the shower control handle.

All of the tech info above is quite useful if you want to diagnose if you have an AH problem. It's good to know how much water is actually coming out of the shower. A five gallon bucket and timer will tell you that in a few minutes. A thermometer will tell you the temp of the incoming water.
Not a bad idea to exersize the mixing valve when the burner is out for ervice. Exirsizing is turning all the way one way, then all the way the other way two times. Then set beck to where you started.

I understand this keeps the heat sensitive wax working better.

I second Bill and Richard's comments.
Thank you Bill, I was low , I added several gallons of distilled water. I will look for any leaks . Does anyone know the capacity of the aquahot in case I had leaked everything out?
The Aqua Hot heater in a Newell has a 16 gal tank capacity.
Any reason why kitchen would be super hot and shower doesn't get that way?
bad cartridge in the shower control
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