Juan,
My coach has breakers like that for the turn signals. I can see the usefulness in that those breakers also feed the plug for the tow vehicle. Easy to get a short somewhere.
On the subject of replacing the blade fuses with resettable, I have not experienced enough blade fuse failures to warrant the effort. When I have blown a blade fuse I almost always find a short. I almost always don't believe it the first time, but when the second one blows instantly, then I wake up and go looking. Slow learner I guess.
Having used similar breakers (though at an entirely different cost) in airplane work, I've considered the change. I've not done it for two reasons. First is as Richard has said. Second is that these breaker will eat up far more space than the fuses they would be replacing and I concluded that I didn't have the available real estate to do it without changing a whole lot of other stuff, which takes me back to the first reason.
On my classic I have the old fuse type, the glass tube with metallic ends.
Also the fuse panel on a classic is right in front of the passenger seat and I have removed the ENTIRE dashboard to replace it with a design I created (thinner and with an electronic dashboard) so while in there I was thinking that it won’t hurt to have a better organized fuse panel and the current fuse panel is sticking out a good 10” from the front wall and is not helping with my new thin dashboard so I was thinking in replacing it with an alluminum anodized panel and have like 50 of those circuit breakers but I wasn’t sure if they are appropriate to replace the current fuses. I guess that I will ha have to try!
Now that I know that they are used in some cases I feel more confident in doing this.
In my case these fuses are the old glass tube fuses and for some reason, I guess heat dissipation or airflow, they are separated from the windshield like 10” and I NEED that space. I have never experienced a short (yet) but that is not the main reason behind why I want to change them. I will post a picture of my fuse panel and it will be easier to understand that way.
By all means. Since you have the panel out, you clearly have the skills, and it would be REALLY cool.
Go for it.
(08-26-2018, 06:59 PM)Floridian Wrote: [ -> ]On my classic I have the old fuse type, the glass tube with metallic ends.
Also the fuse panel on a classic is right in front of the passenger seat and I have removed the ENTIRE dashboard to replace it with a design I created (thinner and with an electronic dashboard) so while in there I was thinking that it won’t hurt to have a better organized fuse panel and the current fuse panel is sticking out a good 10” from the front wall and is not helping with my new thin dashboard so I was thinking in replacing it with an alluminum anodized panel and have like 50 of those circuit breakers but I wasn’t sure if they are appropriate to replace the current fuses. I guess that I will ha have to try!
Now that I know that they are used in some cases I feel more confident in doing this.
If you need someone to anodize the panel I know a guy.
In my case these fuses are the old glass tube fuses and for some reason, I guess heat dissipation or airflow, they are separated from the windshield like 10” and I NEED that space. I have never experienced a short (yet) but that is not the main reason behind why I want to change them. I will post a picture of my fuse panel and it will be easier to understand that way.
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attachment=5808]
This is a view of the front of the coach, the windshield is up there and right in front of the passenger seat we have the fuse box and it is separated 10" from that wall, I want to push back closer to the wall and in the process change all those fuses for something a little bit newer. We'll see how it goes!
Far from needing the panel still but is good to know, I'll get in touch when closer to need it. Thanks for the help.