Newell Gurus

Full Version: Shoreline recp #1 breaker??
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
This is the #1 breaker in my coach, and it also controls AC #1. It keeps tripping. What is "Shoreline Recp" (receptacle?)? Is it a plug somewhere? And where is it? 

While it could be my #1 AC unit having a problem, I'm attempting to be optimistic that there is another receptacle somewhere that is the problem.

Regards,
Alan Johnson

#485
1998 Newell
there is no picture.

tom
Is the "shoreline receptacle" what we call the buddy plug, which is in the last bay , passenger side, before my engine bay?
On my coach that ‘buddy plug’ is wired directly into the ATS (Automatic transfer switch) and probably is not the problem with the breaker tripping. I would think this is A/C related. While talking to Bernd Ramspeck he said he has full manuals for the basement air units on our coaches. I do have the manuals but they are in the coach in TX (I’m in AL now) but will be there in about two weeks...
Alan,
Sounds like a problem we had on our A/C. We have the Duotherm split units. After about 6 weeks of hit or miss repairs & parts replacements and a trip to Miami for proper repairs I think the whole ordeal could have been taken care of by replacing a faulty capacitor had the original guy taken the time to run proper system diagnostics.
Alan would have the SCS basement units.

Watch your ammeters at the front of the coach and have someone reset the breaker.

Does the breaker trip immediately?

Do you know how to use a clamp on ammeter?

Do you know where the control board is for the front AC?

Those answers will help us direct you to the next steps.
(09-19-2018, 10:30 AM)Richard Wrote: [ -> ]Alan would have the SCS basement units.

Watch your ammeters at the front of the coach and have someone reset the breaker.

Does the breaker trip immediately?

Do you know how to use a clamp on ammeter?

Do you know where the control board is for the front AC?

Those answers will help us direct you to the next steps.

Well, it is something with the AC. It occured to me to turn off the AC and see if the breaker would reset.  It did.  When i turned the AC on at the thermostat i could hear something.... probably a compressor trying unsuccessfully to turn over.  It tried for a few seconds before the breaker tripped. (Earlier, the breaker was tripping immediately when the thermostat was calling for cool, and i was at the elec panel trying to reset the breaker.)

I have a clamp on ampmeter... and i've used it a couple times.  I am quite "fluent" with home AC repair/installs, but I haven't tried to dig into one of these units yet.  On a home unit, first thing I would check would be the capacitors, so if i can find these i assume i would do the same.  How much do I need to do to get to the guts of this unit?  Does it need to come out?

Thanks for all your answers!!
Alan
they are at the front of the unit and should be easily accessed by taking the panel off in the top front right of the unit.

tom
Ok.

First, set the thermostat to Fan. Does the internal fan come on? If not, check capacitor for evaporator motor. If that is good, the fan motor needs R&R. If the evap fan does not come on, the coils will ice up, the compressor will see high head pressure, overheat and possibly trip the breaker.

If the fan comes on, then set the tstat to high cool. Does the outside fan come on? If not, same drill as above.

If the outside fan comes on, then it's time to suspect the compressor.

As Tom said, open the bay door and stare. The controls access panel will be on the right of the unit. There is one screw at the very bottom. Remove the screw and hook something in the panel opening to pull outward. They are TIGHT. Now you are looking at the control circuit board. There will be a schematic on the back of the metal door you just removed.

Take a glance at the board for any burned spots or connections. There are know deficiences with this board.

This is where you will measure the amps on the compressor. Find the two leads going to compressor 1, and hang the ammeter around one of them. It should pull about 11 to 13 amps. If it pulls more, like over 20, then the rotor is locked and the comp will have to be replaced. If it doesn't pull anything, then more investigation is required. Disconnect the plug at the board and ohm the two leads to each other, and to ground. What readings do you get?

The caps are found behind that board. Look for four 1/4 nuts in the corners of the just outside the circuit board. Remove those, and slide the board out. You have to hold your mouth right to get it to come out. Now you see the caps. The big one is for the compressor. Do short them out with a screwdriver before gerfingerpoken.

Now if it turns out that the fans work and the comp is bad, you can do a little trick. Change the compressor plugs so that comp 1 is left unplugged, and plug comp2 into the comp1 supply. You'll only half half capacity on that unit until you get it repaired but it may keep you reasonably comfortable.
i am a AC mechanic if the compressor draws lots of current and does not start I would check for current draw on the start windings, if they are drawing current they are not open, the compressor will probably have a thermal overload in it if the compressor is too hot too hold your hand on the thermal overload could be open.Wait for the compressor too cool down could take 1 hour. I would then try a hard start kit before i replaced the compressor