Newell Gurus

Full Version: Dead in the water Series 60?
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
Pages: 1 2
Help!
  Just pulled out of the service bay (for the air leak.

Now after running/starting perfectly for a year, I get crank no start/no check engine lights..no computer codes at all. The only thing I see is the Fuel filter press diaphragm (the large rubber "button" at the top is leaking a bit of fuel and air.

I got it started ONCE and a hellacious noise camer from the vicinity of the fuel pump/compressor on the right side of the Series 60.

I would replace it if I knew what it was...but am running out of time before the holiday!

I am in Marion, OH and a bit despondent,

Any help would be great!
Fuel /water separator , I believe . Racor /Parker Hannifin .
https://ph.parker.com/us/en/marine-fuel-filter-spin-on .
Have a look , similar .

I have no experience with Series 60 , fuel pump or otherwise .
Is there any way to temporarily bypass the leaking button?
I wish I could bypass it like a normal filter system. But it has a return so three legs...Sad
I managed to find one in stock in Virginia it's on its way via Fedex next day... hopefully that will solve the issue.

Someone mentioned it could also be the DDEC computer harness below the fuel pump and engine compressor, but I didn't see any issues with that. And no codes anyplace.

I hate being stuck like the next guy. The folks here are great...but still not ideal.

The marine filter/separator link is great! Thanks.. Any idea which one corresponds to the DDE 23514209 part number?
So help us help you with more specificity in what it is and is not doing. The first thing we need to do is determine if it is electrical or fuel.

You said it turns over, correct?
Does it try to fire at all?

When it did fire, did it shut down on its own?
Was it running smoothly, or stumbling?
When it turns over, is there white smoke coming out of the exhaust?

Do you have a black pump knob by your fuel fill on the fuel tank?

The shop worked on an air leak? Which air leak? You have referenced two on this trip. Trying to figure out what the person working on the air leak might have disturbed. Is there any chance the tech turned the Mechanics Safety Switch located in the rear passenger side engine bay, inside the stainless cabinet to OFF?
Richard,
The air leak I am referencing here was between the engine driven compressor and the governor.
I have checked the DDEC harness and connectors under that area.. Looks OK.

Engine cranks fine, no fire at all. When I got it to run (by manipulating the accelerator pedal (which may have just been a placebo effect) it started.. sounded very much like the fuel pump ran dry (prime lost) At that point we could see foaming bubbles out of the top of the fuel/water separator.

Safety switch is in RUN position. I flipped that a couple of times to make sure.

No black pump knob on either side of the fuel tank

Hope that info helps!
Will it run on starting fluid?
Ok. I have a better picture of why you centered on the fuel filter assembly now.

It doesn’t sound electrical since you did get it to run. However, and this won’t cost much time, my S60 did the same thing last summer. It was the relay in the passenger kick panel that controls power to the ECM. Look at the row of relays on the left. The DDEC relay is the very top one. Pull it out and exchange with one lower on the stack. I used the high beam relay since I don’t drive at night.

So, the tech was in the passenger engine bay to work on the governor connections. It’s entirely possible that he/she bumped into the fuel filter assembly. It looks like that round rubber feature may be the priming pump. Have you tried priming the system by pumping the rubber knob? I found drawings of the assembly, and blew up the instructions on the priming knob. https://www.parker.com/Literature/EMOE/c...Series.pdf
Apparently you have to crack the vent plug when priming.


It may be possible to unscrew the priming knob and plug the hole.

Does white smoke come from the exhaust while you are cranking? The reason I am still asking this question is that white smoke is unburned diesel. White smoke would indicate raw diesel. And also may indicate an electrical issue.
Richard,
I will swap out the relays.... I can communicate with the ECU via blufire and prodriver... though that's not a 100% proof.

I do not believe there is any smoke at all during cranking. I also believe ast this point I have lost prime.. I did pump the "thumb" rubber cover a bunch of times, but it just causes the fuel/sir bubbles around it to increase. I may not have pumped it enough.

I do have a new housing and filter arriving in a couple of hours or so and hope that's a fix.

As a side not, have you seen my post regarding tag axle solenoid? I have a relatively large quantity of air escaping from it when the switch is in the center position. It will raise/lower, But never stop leaking.

THANK You for your speedy replies!
Look at the link I provided, and expand the straight on view of the priming knob in the drawings. You can read the priming instructions if you do that. Hopefully your new assembly will cure the issue.

To get you on the road, take the air supply off the tag solenoid, and cap it. You may have to go to Lowe’s/ACE/HD to get the fittings if you don’t carry them.

I don’t know the solenoid part number. It is a simple 12V activated air solenoid. When you cap it, maybe there will be part numbers on what is there.

Another work around would be to simply remove the solenoid and connect the two air lines with a quarter turn shutoff valve. You would have to manually open to lock the diff, but you would retain function if you needed during your travels this holiday season. You want to make sure you do not have air going to the air diff lock while driving on the highway, or you will have a far bigger problem on your hands.
Pages: 1 2