You are not logged in or registered. Please login or register to use the full functionality of this board...

Buzzing or Whirring Follows Engine RPM, Low engine Temp
I never was able to source the exact solenoid I have on my valve, so I ordered the one Richard used. It has arrived and came with wire leads and no connector. It will be no problem in the future to splice it to the existing connector should I need to install it. I am just curious though, since you got yours from Newell due to needing it quickly, did they supply it with a connector that allowed it to just plug into the harness?
Russ White
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004
No packard connector, I spliced it with two waterproof butt splices.

By the way, in a pinch, I used one of the spare solenoids I had for the six pack. Used a couple of washers to space it right.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )

I posted a couple of weeks ago about a noise that I thought was the turbo going bad.  It turned out to be my hydraulic fan running at max speed.  Richard's description in a previous post on this thread is spot on.  I suggest you follow Russ's lead and add a spare solenoid and valve to your spare inventory.   The parts are small and not terribly expensive and are a little hard to find so it makes sense to find a set to keep with the coach.  Smile

I ended up replacing the valve as well as the solenoid.  

A source for the valve is Motion Industries.   I obtained the solenoid via eBay (Use the part number in the previous post) however Newell had some available at a lower price. Your mileage may vary..   

The replacement process was to use a pan under the valve to catch the ATF oil.   Use ring grease on both valve O-rings then simply unscrew the old valve and replace with the new one as quickly as you can.   The solenoid then bolts right on. [Be careful not to over torque when you attach the solenoid]  (there is only one way that the solenoid goes).  Hook the new solenoid to the old wires.  NOTE: Test by running the engine.  If the fan barely turns or turns slowly, you are in business.   As previously stated, if the solenoid fails, the fan will default to high speed.

In my case the failure of the valve & solenoid caused a dead short which drew enough current to get the wires going to the solenoid nice and melty.  See pictures.  The resulting current draw caused a series of other problems that I will document in another post.

Bill Johnson
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine with Motorcycle lift 
2011 Jeep Wrangler, 2018 BMW 1200GS Adventure Motorcycle
Auburn, Alabama

Forum Jump:

Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)