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House A/C
#21

Thank you guys for your responses!!
Im thinking of supplementing the current systems by adding the Msplit. Im ok with running it off the generator/shore. It would only replace the current non functional dash air. I would duct to the dash vents and also to the front area of the salon.
I am also considering a roof air. The Msplit would give me the ability to duct right into existing dash defroster vents etc. Also If I can figure out how to do it now while the other systems are somewhat functional I would have a better idea whether and how I could replace the other systems as they fail. I like the idea of utilizing the existing ducts already in place.
I believe the air return for the dash air is under the passenger seat. Depending on the dimensions of the evaporator I would mount it in that area and duct to the dash air return and possibly vent to the living area as well.
Mounting the outside unit is a challenge. It appears that it needs a LOT of air movement. On my coach the dash A/C condensor is under the floor right behind the front axle. I dont think I would want the Msplit outside unit under there. I also would have to figure out how to handle the additional electrical load.
Im hoping that the overall electrical efficiency would be improved by using the invertor heat pump technology.

1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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#22

If you go with the mini-split idea, I will be very interested in where you decide to hang the inside section of this system.

2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
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#23

I think I found the leak on my kitchen A/C. Based on the oil it seems to be where the line attaches to the compressor. Has anybody else had a leak here? Is it repairable?
Sorry I cannot get the pic to rotate.


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1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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#24

I got a new compressor from Newell. It is not an exact duplicate, but can be made to fit pretty easily. My problem (I think) is that the AC guy I used plugged up the discharge line while trying to patch a hole he burned in it. Going to Newell Monday to get it done right. I'll post more on the thread when we get done in Miami.
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#25

Hoosierdaddy: I don't have experience with this particular connection. It looks to me as if the coupling right at the compressor is leaking. It also looks to me that it is a copper connection and that it likely is a brazed connection. If those things turn out to be true then it is potentially repairable, but it won't be easy. You would need to 1) recover any refrigerant, 2) purge the system with nitrogen, 3) while purging heat the joint and separate the parts to the point everything can be cleaned, 4)while purging rebraze the joint with silver solder, 5) ramp up the nitrogen pressure to 200psi and check for leaks, 6) this part I don't know how to do but you must replace the missing oil, 7) pull a deep vacuum on the system and then charge with refrigerant to achieve the optimal superheat.

Jon Kabbe
1993 coach 337 with Civic towed
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#26

Dean,

In addition to what Jon said. That joint connects the compressor to the reservoir above it. A new compressor will come with the reservoir, already attached. Which is my way of saying that is not a joint that I would try to fix because the heat from the torch is going right into the compressor. You will have to go to all the steps Jon outlined. I would spend the money for a new compressor since the steps are the same and the outcome will be less risky. Cause it will be a tricky fix, and if it fails, you have to do all those steps TWICE and still buy a new compressor.

Just my opinion.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#27

IF you do decide to try the repair versus a new compressor, wrap the area next to the connection with a wet rag to protect the compressor. And yes as Richard says the new compressor will probably come with a new accumulator. If you change compressors you will need to braze two joints, the one on the outlet of the compressor and the one on accumulator inlet. I can't recall how easy it is to get to the one on the compressor outlet, I didn't have to touch that one.

Ain't these things fun.

Jon Kabbe
1993 coach 337 with Civic towed
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#28

Thanks guys....Any idea what a new compressor costs.? Any sources other than Newell? I've got a used one here that was working when removed but the lines have been open for a long time...I'm concerned about moisture in the compressor.

1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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#29

Typically between 300 and 400. I don't know what Newell gets for one.

If your spare compressor has been open for a while, I personally wouldn't use it. Again, I view the labor and cost of evacuating, deep vacuum, and refill as reasons for not taking a chance with questionable parts or repairs. And that's from a guy who does his own AC work.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#30

Update:
I found a local guy who does mostly refrigerator and roof a/c work. It took a bit of convincing (OK begging) to get him to come to my shop and install a new compressor and filter/dryer in my Dometic house a/c. He's Amish and doesn't do house calls, he keeps very busy at his shop doing the work that comes to him. He could not get the Newell in his shop and due to weather working on it outside was not possible so I agreed to haul his equipment and him to my place.
This unit has the condenser mounted just under the driver seat and the evaporator on the passenger side just aft of the side door. It was totally out of R22. The low side elbow on the side of the compressor is cracked. I found a new Tecumseh compressor and filter/drier at a local HVAC supply (Johnstone Supply) so we installed that. The bolt patter of the newer compressor was slightly different but that only required an additional hole to be drilled in the bottom of the box. He put 56 oz. of R22 in ( At $1.00 / oz.) to reach the cooling and evap temps that he thought were ideal considering the ambient temp of 63o. He pulled a fairly deep vacuum (80 microns???) before adding R22. He had never done a nitrogen purge before but after I explained it as best I could based on the knowledge I had gained here he had no problem doing it and was thankful for that information. I had already installed a new blower motor in that cabinet so hopefully I'm "good to go".
Thanks to my Newell buddies on this forum and especially to Richard, Jon (77newell) , and Larry Weikert for answering my phone queries.!!!

1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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