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It is the unit behind front wheel. I did take out the shelf that was over the top of it and it seems to be working better now only an occasional trip every couple of hours or so at 112 outside. The shelf was keeping the heat from being fully dissipated through all of venting louvres. Only the bottom half was actually what I would call good air flow. A great improvement actually! Thank all of you for your help & ideas!
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I have an AC guy checking it out here in PHX. Looks like the fan motor is out in the condensing unit. He is having a hard time finding a replacement oil cooled motor. Anyone have a part # or source for replacement motor?
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Got my motor from Grainger. got replacement info from Newell. They sent me to Grainger.
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Yes had to cut shaft to proper length but that's not uncommon. My a/c guy was surprised the motor was so easy to find.
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Here is an update: I thought I should just take it Miami!! AC guy showed up with a motor with too small of a shaft & a wimply fan that was too large dia. He wanted to cut sheet metal to make it fit. I said NO. He got in touch with Chuck at Newell & was ble to get the correct replacement. After installing it on a Friday finishing up in a down pour, things ran good. We went to lunch with my brother and his wife. When we got back, breaker was tripped again. Re-started and was same as before, run for a while & trip breaker. Called AC guy he said he would look at it next week when we got back from El Paso. Upon inspection, the brand new motor from Grainger was bad and had to be replaced the next day. Motor started good but compressor would not start. AC guy read windings on compressor & said it was probably bad. Got a new on over-nighted from Newell. He did the install the next day. During install, he burned a hole in the small discharge line when sweating old filter off. I pointed this out and was told "no problem, I'll patch over it when I braze the new filter on". From my vantage point, it appeared that a significant amount of brass got on the inside of the line while he was patching the hole. I pointed this out but was told "don't worry, I purge the lines with nitrogen to make sure everything is clear". After putting it all together & testing, the new compressor would not start. The AC guy checked the control box under the dinette and found a blown capacitor. Had to wait until morning to get a replacement. Not exact replacement, but very close spec wise. Put it in added refrigerant and everything started & ran. Only problem, VERY high head pressure after just a short time. No cold air on inside. Also he said pressures on low side were also high. recovered some refrigerant & tried to re charge slowly watching amp draw at the same time. Amps +/- 10. Still no luck. He threw his hands in the air and surrendered. In his defense, he did say" I'm not going to lie to you, by not finding the capacitor first, I may have caused you to spend a lot more than you need to". I had gotten him a print out of parts list & diagram from Dometic. They said no parts are available, but were good enough to e-mail me the schematics with a "Good luck". Now planning a trip to Newell on 16th like I probably should have done to start with. Seems no one knows these coaches like the factory. Any thoughts or ideas?
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Clint,
So much has occurred it would only be guessing to comment without a hands on inspection. High head pressures are usually caused by no condenser cooling, stopped up expansion valve or capillary tube, or too much refrigerant.
Do you recall the gauge readings?
Jon Kabbe has some recent hands on experience with the Dometic units.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)
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I think he said around 500-550 on high side and around 110 on low side. I am leaning towards thinking the small copper line is obstructed by excess brass from the patch. To my thinking (and I may be wrong) when compressor first kicks in, it is moving refrigerant in a gaseous state through the filter into the copper line. As pressure increases it is then trying to move liquid state state refrigerant past the obstruction. Gas will move easier through a small dia than a liquid. This obstruction is a long way from the evaporator unit. In my mind refrigerant goes back to gaseous after getting past the obstruction before it gets to the expansion valve/capillary tube in the evaporative unit. Thus no cold air is developed inside.
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I am assuming the tech put in a filter/drier when he replaced the compressor. Please confirm.
Which side of the filter is the "patch" on?
It is entirely possible that the capillary is stopped up. It could be from the patch, it could be scale from the brazing if the inside of the tubing was not purged with N2 before it was soldered, or the capillary could have been stopped up all along which is why you were tripping the breaker.
The pressure reading definitely points to a stopped up capillary.
No choice but to break into the system again, and purge backwards through the capillary. Use a cloth to catch whatever is in there. I would install a new filter drier. Be sure the system is purged with N2 before a torch touches anything.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)
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Richard,
Yes he replaced the filter when replacing the compressor. Hole in line was on discharge side of filter +/- 1-2" past filter. In the paast, never had problems tripping breaker until ambient temp got over 110 F or so. I think problem is just poor air circulation where condensing unit is placed for rear AC. It is mounted with the air discharge going out the bottom of compartment. Coils face the side wall of the compartment.
