[pairodice]

Help! Need to travel this weekend - emergency... and everyone is closed... I’m reviving this thread. I never did get the PennTex (new) alternator to work - I got the belts working fine now (skipped the A/C). I don’t want to run the generator all the way across the country to my destination. I really believe the voltage regulator is the culprit. The original regulator was a PX-1000 I believe and was replaced by a Lestek Commander regulator. I did notice the wiring needs to be cleaned so will do that and run through the checklist.
Question: where can I get a replacement regulator (don’t care about the brand) please?

[Richard]

You don't have to run the gennie all the time. Unless you are running at night or with the dash fans on.

Merge the batteries. Run the gennie when the voltage gets to about 12.5 or so. Turn off when it gets to 13.5.

Don't leave the batts merged when you park.

Have you run the diagnostics on the alternator? http://www.penntexusa.com/4stptestinfo.pdf

If not you could spend a lot of time replacing a regulator that isn't the problem.

Quoting you "I ran the tests and sent them off ot Penntex for analysis this morning. Will update here when we get the results. " What were the results?

[encantotom]

many of us run the genny from the time we think about going somewhere until the tires have cooled when we get back home.

tom

[Fulltiming]

Typically, if my engine is running, my generator is running. My dash air blows warm air so if it is not cold, the coach air conditioners are on.

[dannymarilyn]

Another resource for alternators and regulators is Jerry's Starter & Alternator here in Oklahoma City. (405 682-3920). He exchanged my alternator frame for the correct one for less than $400 as he upgraded us to a 170 amp from the previous 150 amp model. Mostly he doesn't look it up, he merely walks to his stock picks out what you need and he is correct! He charged me about $80 for my spare regulator as I remember. He has room for coaches & semis.

Good luck,
Danny

[pairodice]

anyone have schematics that show how the alternator should be connected? I ran the PennTex Alternator/Regulator tests yesterday and it does not appear that the alternator it putting out any voltage so I'm thinking maybe I connected it up wrong (or maybe it was wrong all along)...

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Anyone have a source for the PennTex or alternative voltage regulator (I think it is 235 or 285 amps...)?
I would really rather fix the alternator as it should be rather than run the genset please.

[dannymarilyn]

Any basic alternator has a positive output connection, and a connection to power the stator. On many alternators the positive connection for the stator is internal and usually tied to the positive output post. The alternator output ground is usually the alternator frame which grounds to the engine through the mounting bracket.

However, the Penntex appears to isolate the stator positive output connection -orange wire.

Most alternators are regulated by varing the field winding (field) - blue wire according to the Penntex pdf.

Red wire is battery voltage. Alternators HAVE to have power to develop electricity!

Brown is "regulator exciter voltage" which probably means "on and off". This prevents battery drain.

So, if you have voltage on the blue wire ( 3-10 volts), voltage on your orange wire powering the stator, and no output, alternator is probably defective. That assumes everything is properly grounded. If no voltage on the wires, defect is elsewhere.

Just be careful if measuring around a running engine at the rear of the alternator. If a voltage is missing at alternator, then check at regulator. Bad wires or connections are difficult to trace. Do not assume a connection! Verify.

Good luck,
Danny

[pairodice]

After a nice (long) phone call with PennTex (again) I was able to figure out that the alternator IS working correctly and the regulator is old but still working fine. We started our 1800 mile trip this morning with a side trip to the tire store since the passenger tag tire had a slow leak; they did not find anything with a water test and offered to pull the tire apart to see if there was a pinhole. The manager was not the friendliest person after he saw I pulled in with a coach (even though I told him it was an RV like a Prevost bus) and just wanted us out of his shop. I did find the fluid level in the wheel was low and filled it (will watch it on the trip). About 2 hours out the alternator threw (another) belt so I will get a bit smaller one from the part store in the morning. Hopefully the belt does not continue this behavior. If I could ever get a decent size to match the routing between just the alternator and engine (sans A/C compressor) I would do that but have failed several times and have a nice stack of belts at home... maybe I’ll try it again tomorrow. I need to figure out how to get the belt tight as it seems the alternator bobs up and down when the engine is running - how tight should the alternator be? Do they normally move up/down?
We are planning to go to Newell tomorrow and spend the night if all goes well. Of course to top all this off the Generator is not working so the alternator is crucial to the mission. While at Newell I plan to get the automatic transfer switch parts (contactor for generator and the circuit board), hopefully the parts guy guessed the correct board over the phone... Newell service is super busy now so I will probably be on my own fixing stuff tomorrow to finish the trip.

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Thanks for the advice - this was MUCH easier than I thought it would be - I had originally checked everything with the regulator wiring disconnected (which, in retrospect made no sense whatsoever)...  
Any basic alternator has a positive output connection, and a connection to power the stator.  On many alternators the positive connection for the stator is internal and usually tied to the positive output post.  The alternator output ground is usually the alternator frame which grounds to the engine through the mounting bracket.

However, the Penntex appears to isolate the stator positive output connection -orange wire.

Most alternators are regulated by varing the field winding (field) - blue wire according to the Penntex pdf.

Red wire is battery voltage.  Alternators HAVE to have power to develop electricity!

Brown is "regulator exciter voltage" which probably means "on and off".  This prevents battery drain.

So, if you have voltage on the blue wire ( 3-10 volts), voltage on your orange wire powering the stator, and no output, alternator is probably defective.  That assumes everything is properly grounded.  If no voltage on the wires, defect is elsewhere.  

Just be careful if measuring around a running engine at the rear of the alternator.  If a voltage is missing at alternator, then check at regulator. Bad wires or connections are difficult to trace.  Do not assume a connection!  Verify.

Good luck,
Danny