You are not logged in or registered. Please login or register to use the full functionality of this board...


Generator Radiator
#11

hi jonathan,

we dont allow video attachments. if you want to show a video, you will need to have it on youtube or some other hosting site and provide a link to the video in your post.

videos take up too much disk space

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

Reply
#12

Steve's right, the Aquahot has both a 110v and 220v element. So one side will show the load from the 110v + 220v and the other leg will show only the 220v element.
Also since the generator does not have a fan on the radiator but instead uses the blower fan to pressurize the generator box which flows through the radiator then down out the front. With the generator extended while running it will probably overheat.

Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486 

1993 Newell 39' #337 
Reply
#13

I had made a drawing of the AH wiring which might help anyone still confused with the imbalance.  It is attached

My two cents worth from 40 plus years of generator sets.  when replacing a radiator , flush first to remove any residue left from soldering and cleaning.  second, always use fresh coolant and mix to 50/50 using distilled water (RO works but the glycol suppliers insist on distilled) .  Include an additive to control Ph and other chemical imbalances.

The fan:  Squirrel cage fans consume the most horsepower un-restricted.  As you restrict the air flow (by closing the enclosure for example) the current flow reduces.  Check it for yourself with a clamp on ammeter!  Most of these motors have thermal limits built in (hence "thermally protected") so when the load goes up so does the current and the windings get hot, BAM down she goes!  The one thing I wish Newell would incorporate is an air flow switch so if the air flow stopped the set would shut down.

End of 2 cents worth!!

[attachment=3706]

Gordon Jones
2000-45'-2slide-#567
Reply
#14

Gordon, In a way the high temperature shut down works kind of in that way LOL. Also, if air flow ceases for a long time and the high temperature shut off fails, there is always the automatic fire extinguisher system to fall back on. All kidding aside, your idea of an air flow shut down is a pretty sound one as long as there is an over ride of some sort for diagnostically running the generator in the extended mode. I hate depending solely on a somewhat dubious analog VDO temperature gauge to know for sure the generator engine is being properly cooled while it is running.
Reply
#15

I really agree with this as well. My generator VDO gauge is above and behind the drivers seat. I have to let Baxter take the wheel while I turn around and look at the gauge. (I know, I know he is not licensed...but is a much better driver than Roro).

Anyway, how hard would it be to wire up an indicator light saying that the Fan is not turning, or that the temp has risen to a problematic level?

bill

Bill Johnson
Birmingham, Alabama
Reply
#16

To answer Bill's question, a gauge chance would be needed.  A gauge with an adjustable set point set to 205 (or any point you want) which triggers an output that drives ?a lamp, buzzer, flashing LED.  Datcon , Murphy, Stewart Warner for example offer  these items.  You would have to change the sender so it matches the gauge.

As for the fan, an air switch (sometimes called a sail switch) which would trigger the shutdown.  Not hard to accomplish.

My point about the fan failure is not that the engine wouldn't shut down rather the temps approach 220 for Yanmar shutdown swtches and it's awfully close to scoring pistons.  Scored pistons are the most common Yanmar failures.

Gordon Jones
2000-45'-2slide-#567
Reply
#17

Thanks for the input / discussion. These things are pretty complex and the better we understand them, the smoother we ride out any problems.
Is there any way to replace parts / adjust the yanmar shutdown temperature to accomplish the same goal / added safety margin for the motor?
My generator did not overheat when the slide was extended but the squirrel cage fan apparently did…I think Gordon hit the nail on the head and I have heard that those squirrel cage fans "need" some air flow resistance to work correctly. My AC guy is helping me convert a 10 KW house heater to run on a 50A extension cord (as a generator exerciser / campsite heater) and he cautioned me to restrict the outflow a little bit. Now I understand it better.
Instead of diluting the coolant, I used the pre-diluted stuff. I used the Peak Final Charge…its available at wal-mart and I wanted to use something that was easily available if / when I need it and I figured wal-mart is as universal as anything. It meets all the specifications shown on any of the other "heavy duty" coolants and for what its worth it has a picture of a semi on the bottle (that's got to make it good)!
As a tidbit to the power situation, when I switched off the electric aqua hot, the amps on both legs went down to nearly zero which vindicated the charger (my original thought also). I normally keep the coach plugged into 50A so my batteries stay full. Gordon's second cent makes perfect "cents" on this topic also! As another topic related to batteries, I've got a Magnum inverter / charger and it does NOT boil the batteries at all. I last filled them over 6 months ago (probably 10 months ago) and they're right where I left them. My previous coach had a charger that would practically boil them dry if you left it on. I use distilled water in the batteries too.
Thanks for the heads up on the video…I tried repeatedly to attach it and suspected it was a Mac problem!

Jonathan Shetler
1999 Newell 510
Ft Lauderdale, FL
Reply
#18

So on 50A 240V service, the electric AH draws total of 6100 watts split as 18.75 A on each 240 V leg (18.75 x 240 = 4500) plus 13.3 A on one leg of 120 V (13.3 x 120 = 1600) which totals 32.1 A on one side and 18.75 on the other? Did I follow correctly?
Can the user select anywhere which elements come on? Remove / replace fuses on the AH unit? I don't have any particular reason besides curiosity.
How does the unit "know" if its on 120V or 240V and which elements to power?
I'm not really savvy at the diagram symbols…I'm not dumb but I lack formal education in the electrical department.
Apparently the squirrel cage fan pulls power BEFORE the ammeters because they don't seem to show the consumption and based on other agriculture fan motors of similar size I guess it probably draws around 10A of 120 or 5A of 240 but I'm not sure which way its wired.

Jonathan Shetler
1999 Newell 510
Ft Lauderdale, FL
Reply
#19

I don't know about yours, but my generator fan motor is wired 240VAC.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Reply
#20

(02-01-2016, 09:06 PM)DogKnots Wrote:  Anybody replaced / re-cored their generator radiator?
I dropped mine at the shop last week because it had a little leak where the tank attaches to the core.
I asked Newell about a new radiator and they didn't have a source for one (Kohler 20KW).

I have replaced the generator radiator in my 87 by Dana Radiator in Mesa Az. Who did Kohler use for their power plant, I know mine is a Perkins diesel.

Jim & Gail
1987 Newell #123
Silver 8v92/Allison 4 sp.
Toad: 2007 HHR
Life is a Highway.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)