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5 Button Comfort Control Center Problem
#1

All,
I have a CCC circuit board/power supply that I am not able to find a replacement for. It seems that normally there is a 12v dc circuit connected to the control center, but mine only has 120v ac and it has a 12v dc power supply board under the CCC board.
I have searched the internet without any luck finding information on it.
I called Dometic and they had know idea how to find a part number for it or what it was and could not provide any help.
I called Newell and they do no carry the part.
I am confused as to why there is a 120 to 12 power supply instead of just running 12v from the house battery like a normal installation. I would replace the board if I could find one, but I don't have a big problem with removing it and adding a stand alone PS or running house battery to it. I would just like to understand what the reasoning was for the PS before making changes.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
David


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David Crayne
Joplin Mo
1994 Newell Coach 371, 45ft with DD60 12.7
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#2

(09-01-2016, 11:26 AM)David Crayne Wrote:  All,
I have a CCC circuit board/power supply that I am not able to find a replacement for. It seems that normally there is a 12v dc circuit connected to the control center, but mine only has 120v ac and it has a 12v dc power supply board under the CCC board.
I have searched the internet without any luck finding information on it.
I called Dometic and they had know idea how to find a part number for it or what it was and could not provide any help.
I called Newell and they do no carry the part.
I am confused as to why there is a 120 to 12 power supply instead of just running 12v from the house battery like a normal installation. I would replace the board if I could find one, but I don't have a big problem with removing it and adding a stand alone PS or running house battery to it. I would just like to understand what the reasoning was for the PS before making changes.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
David

We had some AC work done at Newell last year.  Roger did mention something about using a "door bell" transformer to replace to board you are talking about. (I think)  You might try talking to Roger in the service area of Newell.
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#3

David I can only guess why the unit has a stand alone 12VDC supply as opposed to using the coach supply.

It came from Dometic that way since Dometic made those units for more more than Newell. It was easier to run one set of wires from the thermostat to the control board, than it would be to run wires from the tstat to the board AND run a second set of 12V wires. Plus, when you tap off the coach 12V system you could be getting anywhere from 13.7 to 11 depending on what is going on.

Not defending it or saying it was right or wrong.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#4

CC and Richard,
Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I did connect a 12v supply that I had to test the relay board and the t-stat and found that the relay board has a problem too.

Richard,
I suspected the same as you did that it was easier to just run one power source to the unit and this one is only an AC and doesn't have a need to run on 12v other that to power the t-stat and control board. I will probably mount a small stand alone 12v supply in the compartment with the AC instead of running wires to it.

David Crayne
Joplin Mo
1994 Newell Coach 371, 45ft with DD60 12.7
Reply
#5

David,

When I owned a Newell with Dometic units, I had to replace several of the Omron relays that provide power to the compressor. Easy to source, and easy to replace.

You may already know how to do this, so I post for others. How to replace a relay on a PCB.
You need:
One fine tipped soldering iron.   A soldering gun is way too big.
Fine gauge solder.
Copper wicking braid. https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desold...wick+braid
A replacement relay of exactly the same dimensions on the legs that protrude through the board.

Plug the iron in and leave it until it gots hot. Trying to start with a cold iron makes a mess.
Find the lugs for the relay on the BACK of the board.
Place the tip of the wicking braid on one of the lugs.
Put the iron over the braid.
The idea is to heat the braid, which will melt the solder, and pull it out of the joint.
As the braid fills with solder, either advance to a clean section of braid, or cut off the end.
Caution, its copper and you have heat on it. It will get hot.
Clean out all the attachments for the relay.
If you have done a good job it should easily detach from the board.
Put on the new one, and solder the lugs.

Lastly, and this is about the umpteenth time I have gotten on this soapbox. Check the wire nut connections. They work loose over time potentially causing all manner of grief including mini meltdowns, burned out relays, and burned out compressors.  I love these little jewels for replacing wire nuts on my power circuit for the compressors.  https://www.google.com/search?q=aluminum...HTkv3rM%3A

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#6

Hey Richard,
Great instructions for replacing the relay's on the board. The relays are working like they should but the control board is calling for all three fan speeds anytime the power is applied even with the thermostat disconnected. If I disconnect the 12v dc supply all the relays drop out and the fan shuts off like it should, so I am sure that the problem is with the components on the board that call for the fan speeds. After making a few calls today I have ordered a 12v dc supply and a new relay control board.
Thanks for the instructions and I am sure it will be helpful for someone in the future.

David

David Crayne
Joplin Mo
1994 Newell Coach 371, 45ft with DD60 12.7
Reply
#7

A suggestion from an electrician friend of mine regarding wire nuts: to help keep them tight, following installation either wrap them with the stretchy sealing electrical tape wrapped in the direction that holds the nut tight or apply heat shrink tubing over the nut and wire. I don't know if this will solve the problem entirely but would prevent vibration from loosening the nuts.

Jon Kabbe
1993 coach 337 with Civic towed
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#8

I just finished replacing all the wire nuts with compression connectors on my 1984. At least i think I found all of them....Did Newell ever use wire nuts?
They were never intended to be used in applications having vibrations.
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#9

Well I finally got the air fixed by purchasing an led driver 12v dc 5amp power supply that fit into the control box and that fixed the thermostat and controls. I thought that the control board was faulty but after looking closely at the wiring I found that one of the fan wires was on the wrong post and once that was corrected and the new supply it all works as it should.
When I purchased the coach it had been in to a local rv center to find out what all was wrong with it. One of the AC would run all the time when the power was on to it and they determined that the  thermostat was bad. I did order a thermostat and plugged in before troubleshooting and so i now have a spare thermostat in case it actually does fail. The 12v dc supply board is no longer available so changing to a different supply was an easy and cheap ($16) fix.

David Crayne
Joplin Mo
1994 Newell Coach 371, 45ft with DD60 12.7
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#10

Great problem solving! And good job on the alternative fix. We all deal with obsolete parts when repairing our systems. Thanks for posting the outcome.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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