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Direct Drive Blower for generator
#11
Yep, I wired mine on high speed because that came the closest to putting out the same CFM. I attached the green to the fan frame just for grins.

David, let us know what you think of the difference in sound.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#12
The new fan is definitely quieter. Instead of growling bearings and the occasional belt squeak, now all I hear from the fan is the rushing air. 

And man, does it move air on high speed. Noticeably more than the old one. I am going to try the middle setting which should also be quieter I would think.
David and MaryLynn Kammeraad
1996 Newell #427
2014 Ford Focus toed
#13
Hello,

I’m very interested in replacing the OEM Gen blower with the Dayton 1XJY4 in my 2002 model. From what I’ve read on the forum the OEM must be a 220v as the direct drive is also 220v (haven’t had time to dive in to the system completely). 

Does anyone have pictures of the retrofit and how they welded the original flange on the new blower?

Pictures of the unit installed in the compartment and any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

I’m starting my modification/wishlist and feel like a bulletproof blower is important to the generator livelihood. 

Thank you, JK
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#14
You will find that if you carefully cut the mounting flange off the old unit that it will be easy to weld onto the new one. You could make a new flange out of flat bar and simply transfer the hole locations.

And if you dont have access to a MIG unit, you could make a mounting frame out of angle stock and bolt it tonthe fan.

The old blower and the new blower are exactly the same opening size
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#15
(11-20-2018, 06:35 AM)Richard Wrote: You will find that if you carefully cut the mounting flange off the old unit that it will be easy to weld onto the new one. You could make a new flange out of flat bar and simply transfer the hole locations.

And if you dont have access to a MIG unit, you could make a mounting frame out of angle stock and bolt it tonthe fan.

The old blower and the new blower are exactly the same opening size

Sounds easy enough thank you. Yesterday I was working on the fan and motor, one of the rubber foots had come off the adjustment screw which would allow the unit to vibrate. Mike told me about the modification, that will make a big difference. 
JK
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#16
Now that you have your new toy home and Kristi is going to let you keep it, you should check out the “top ten mods” thread. It give you some things to piddle with this winter. Enjoy your coach and welcome to the forum
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#17
(11-20-2018, 10:40 AM)Richard Wrote: Now that you have your new toy home and Kristi is going to let you keep it, you should check out the “top ten mods” thread.  It give you some things to piddle with this winter. Enjoy your coach and welcome to the forum

Mike and I talked about that. I’ll do just that! Working on the engine compartment to move wire bundles out of the way of components. Anal retentive I am!
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#18
I’ve ordered the direct drive Dayton 1XJY4 blower unit. I’d imagine this unit will also save some weight

Questions:

Why don’t these generators have an electric fan unit mounted on the radiator to assist with moving air. It would seem to me having the electric fan helping move (blow or pull) air we could run the blower on the medium/low speed reducing sound and vibration. To take it one step farther, I believe I’ve read that the blower fan speed could be varied based on the cooling needs of the generator. 

I have yet to explore the generator installation other than a simple overview. The unit in mine is turbo charged, the exhaust pipe is damaged/crushed and needs to be repaired along with the two mufflers. The exhaust run is very long to get to the stack (runs down the center then to stack). Has anyone modified the system to be more efficient? Since I just recived my 22 ton jacks, I haven’t had any time to spend underneath studying the coach. Can the exhaust pipe run at an angle towards the pipe? Does it need two? Could we Source one muffler that gets the job done? I’ve always hear Walker manufactures quiet mufflers. 

Thanks for any input and support!
JK
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#19
The direct drive fan motor assembly was used several years ago and it worked well. The issue was from time to time the generator would over heat for no apparent reason. What was discovered if you were driving down the road with the generator not running and started the generator while driving down the road the fan would be turning the wrong direction with no power to the fan. I assume the air flow in the compartment would make the fan turn backwards and when the generator started the cooling fan motor would operate but it would be turning the wrong way. After discovering this and all you have to do is stop the coach shut off the generator wait a minute start the generator and continue driving with no overheating issues. Just saying it maybe an issue but hope not.
#20
On my rig the gen exhausts out the bottom of the compartment. I’d be interested to know what the airflow is doing while moving. I’ll mount my GoPro and a few tuffs if yard to see how the air flows.
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712


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