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New problem with air brake pedal leak
#21

Les

Look for a tap wrench. The long handle style, not the tee handle. They are made to fit the square shank on the ez out. If the person who put the fitting in used a Loctite product to get it to seal, then you will have to use a little heat to get it to turn loose. Easy does it.
I would use heat before I started drilling on the fitting. If you drill you are going to get particles that could cause major problems.

If you have to take it out, which is what I would do, number the air lines, put a matching number on the brake body, take plenty of pictures, and yank it out. While I had it out I would Tom it and replace all the fittings with new ones.

Call me 817 223 2056

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#22

(12-19-2012, 11:43 AM)les korcala Wrote:  Here are the photos of the broken brass fitting nut.
I am putting good over 100lbs of pressure on the wrench but bit wont turn , it twist some but wont turn? I hope those treads on the cilinder are not cuntercloackwise ?

Buy the looks of the photo you have some room to work. The aluminum housing expands faster than the brass fitting so thats a good thing. One problem you can run into with the four sided tapered extractor is that you can expand the fitting when you drive it in. But you are at where your at. Before drilling out the fitting I would get a good bite on the fitting with you extractor and with pressure applied in a counterclockwise rotation apply heat to the boss that the fitting is screwed into (avoiding the fitting). It looks like there is teflon tape on the fitting so it won't be seized.. and should move as the heat is applied. good luck..

Jimmy

Jimmy
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#23

Les
2 more things.
If you try heat on the valve, I would also try dry ice on the fitting.

If you end up drilling, put some grease on the bit to capture the cuttings

Gordon
1991 41.5' #266
8V92 DDEC II
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#24

Hi Les,
I would drill as a last resort. Radio Shack makes a small butane soldering iron/torch that would provide a good amount of heat in a small area. Here's a link:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index....Id=2062753

Start by heating around the outside of the fitting so the fitting expands without shooting a lot of heat inside the hole. Imagine that you are trying to blow the heat in between the threads of the fitting and the brake valve.
If you MUST drill I would try to size the drill to the ID of the inside part of the fitting so that you are only removing the material in the "floor" of the fitting. Coat the drill bit with heavy grease. The grease will help grab the shavings,,hopefully keeping them out of that valve. Tape a small piece of rubber hose that will fit inside the hole duct to your vacuum cleaner to remove errant shavings. This larger hole will allow you to use a larger easy-out.

It appears that Jimmy and Gordon posted while I was composing my post....Both good ideas B-)

1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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#25

I have contrary advice. If loctite sealant was used, heat is needed to get it to turn loose. Apply the heat to the brass fitting. Have we sufficiently confused you now?

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#26

By the way Les where are you now?

Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486 

1993 Newell 39' #337 
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#27

(12-20-2012, 06:36 PM)folivier Wrote:  By the way Les where are you now?

We are 3 months on lake Casitas oustside of Ojai and Ventura, lake is huge (drinking water for Ventura county ) heading to Indio & Palm Springs in week than to Tucson for 2 months

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
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#28

                                    I want to tahnk everyone for great support and tips to solve my air brakes problem1= !

Today I finally figured how to do it and its working great ! tanks are full of air and no leaks!

What I did carefully read all teh responds in alst two days and before start wrenching i made 2 calls to well know truck mechanics out of LA area.
Both of them say to stay away from using any torches on the brake foot cylinders , they said the by heating up the brass you will hit the aluminum treads and they have see them melt, twisted and deform, they never used flame on the the air brake foot cylinder body. That made me thinking since I penetrated with teflon type solvent over night and tried one more time with easy out and read nad story how easy the can break!

I was worry about removing entire unit , but made my mind and did it!

I figured I will have way better angle and more room to work on it.

I used zippties to mark all teh tubes fittings, removed mounting bolts and pulled entire E-7 Style Foot Valve body , is made by Velvac

I than placed in the vice and used power drill with diamond barrel shape bit, started in the center to grind away the brass left overs.
I did that with two sizes of bit and after getting good size holw , still left planty wall of brass with treads on it.
Next i used size bigger than before Easy Outs and small wrench and took some tourqe to loosen but it went loose! haha! victory!

Next I used my new discovered Newell's compresor and pumped all the left over shavings trough out all teh holes of the cylinder.

Put new 90 degree standard style brass fitting . both of the mechanics sugested , they have worked on air brakes sytems for 20 years and said thsi type hose fitting and brass male fitting is far the best most solid and they never see any leaks from it.
Its more permanent fitting but again, if workd whye would I ever care if is push pull or otherwise as long as it works!

In my sytem I had 3 push pull style and the last one faild here and leak out air , I wonder if my air brakes suffer too! We just started to travel so I can tell, but our compressor was kicking in every 30 m inutes , now is way over hrs between the cycles.

You will see in the photos how solide is this angle braqss fitting.

After attching all hoses I started 110v compressor and build up al the air in teh lines, dasport gaouge shows 90psi in parking mode. Mechanic mention to make sure stays 110-130 psi while driving.

My wife came back from the store and was happy to see our brakes fixed.
It was great lesson for me not to mess with any parts whan stying in remote area , but same time I have learned much about the function of the air brake sytem and thet can be fixed.

Thank you all again for taking tim and tips and sugestions, it would be very hard to do anything with out so much input on thsi forum.

Best reagrds,
Les

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
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#29

Les,
Glad to hear there is a happy ending! Good job.

Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531
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#30

Les,

outstanding job. glad you got it fixed yourself.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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