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Coolant leak front of coach
#21

Wow, you guys have just helped me identify two more mystery switches on the dash panel. One is "rear heat" the other one is "compartment  heat". I am going to assume that one is the blower control for the newly discovered bedroom hot water heater and the other is the  pump for the dash, or as they call it "compartment heat" . I have not had time to activate these switches and see what the actually do yet.

I am still dealing with the  coolant loss that is coming from the general area of the front heater core, and dripping out  the genny bay at the end off the travel day.  I did find two shut off valves as you Gurus told me I would in the are of the engine mounted fuel filter, one about 10 inches above the frame rail, and the other just below the frame rail, both burried by  large hoses  to the oil filter, and a fuel filter mounted at the side area of the engine. Both valves look very sketchy. Not wanting to create a secondary problem while on the road, i left them alone and made a 300 mile trip to van Horn Texas today, losing about 3/4 gallon of coolant.

Am I correct that both valves on the engine block control water out of the engine, and the two other heater hoses I see going to the top of the radiator are the return? I had assumed that the two valves were output and return, but I don't think so...

Guy & Sue
1984 Classic 40' #59
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#22

Guy, I'm not sure either......I have the same to shutoff valves, but have never had to utilize them. Maybe a call to the Newell hotline is in order, unless someone here can confirm which is which. Sounds liked the leak is getting worse. Might want to stop by All Aboard America (Mesa, AZ) and have Leo look at it.


Clarke and Elaine Hockwald
1982 Newell Classic, 36', 6V92 TA
2001 VW Beetle Turbo
Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale Bad Boy
Haibike SDURO MTB
http://whatsnewell.blogspot.com
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#23

The compartment heat switch turns the fans on/off on the heater core in the water compartment in both my 77 and 93 coaches.

If there are return water hoses connected to the engine block without valves on them there will be no way to isolate a leak in the coach and water heater systems. Since the return hoses are always pressurized when the engine is hot, even with the supply side valves closed the leak will continue. If that is the arrangement it is not original from the the factory.

On the 77 coach I added a booster pump mounted on the driver side frame rail below the secondary fuel filter and powered it via a switch on the dash, the 93 coach has the same pump but it is triggered by a micro-switch on the dash temperature control slide lever.

On the 77 coach the water flow from out through the lower valve on the engine (this memory is several years old so it could be mistaken), through the boost pump, through the under-bad core, through the slide lever control valve, through the front heater core, to the compartment heater core, through the water heater, and then returns through the upper valve on the rear of the engine.

On the 93 the arrangement is lower valve, booster pump, control valve, heater core, compartment heat (I think) and return valve on engine. AND second lower valve on engine, under-bed heater core, water heater, second upper return valve on engine.

Since designs evolve from year to year I don't know how the above applies to any specific coach. I suspect an 84 coach with 2 valves would be more like the 77 coach, but if someone altered the setup it could anything. However the upper valve location is downstream of the thermostats and will be low pressure so I doubt it is possible to run a supply to anything from the location and return it to the block as the block pressure would be higher. If the lower valve is a supply and the return is to the block the only pressure difference would be due to the boost pump, probably inadequate to produce much heat up front.

Jon Kabbe
1993 coach 337 with Civic towed
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#24

the microswitch jon refers to is exactly that. on the dodge dash heater/ac control panel newell attached a microswitch that activates the booster pump. it is attached to the hot/cold lever and you can hear it click when you slowly move the lever.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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#25

If you really want to shut the valves on the road there is a simple way to minimize the potential of them leaking. Before closing the valve, loosen the nut that is below the handle. That nuts tightens the packing around the valve stem. Tighten the valve, the retighten the nut around the stem

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#26

That would work. The packing material has dried out and taken a set form from not being turned. So when you turn the valve it moves away from its set and can leak. Which brings up an idea to find and replace the packing material if possible.
This might be a possible replacement and is available at Grainger: http://www.antiseize.com/poly-temp-vsp-p...em-packing

Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486 

1993 Newell 39' #337 
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#27

The coolant loss is holding at 1 qt per 6 hrs run time. Makes me uncomfortable, but I will live with it for a few more days on the road. We are spending Christmas with family in Riverside , (Norco) CA. I had planned on spending some time and $, and having the 2 cycle  shop in Chattanooga survey the coach mechanicals, but they were not in a position to do that, so an oil change and lube and we were down the road. After the 1st of the year, we will make an appointment with All Aboard America for a thorough going over of the coach. I would really like to understand the water flow of this heating system, and get new shut offs installed. I am curious as to what the two heater hoses do that return to the top of the radiator.Then I can proceed on the repairs at my speed. (Or not!)  I am fairly handy with mechanical things , but I am intimidated by this coach, due to the size of all the components.

Guy & Sue
1984 Classic 40' #59
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#28

(12-22-2017, 08:20 AM)Richard Wrote:  If you really want to shut the valves on the road there is a simple way to minimize the potential of them leaking. Before closing the valve, loosen the nut that is below the handle. That nuts tightens the packing around the valve stem. Tighten the valve, the retighten the nut around the stem

The reason I didn't is that the "plumbing" of the hoses makes no sense. I am totally confused by the two lines that enter the system to the top radiator tank. It appears one of them joins the system just past the point of the engine shut off valve. Since coolant loss   has stabilized for the moment, I will remain hyper sensitive to engine temps and coolant level. I am think that any havoc I bring to this coach in Rodeo New Mexico, Pop 101 could lead to a really expensive day.  Smile

Guy & Sue
1984 Classic 40' #59
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#29

when you are in az, be sure to stop and visit us. we have 2 full hook up 50 amp sites next to our shop in back of our house.

leo at all aboard is amazing with 2 stroke detroits. it is a bus facility, not an rv place so they are not usually doing coach systems. body work, engine, suspension they are expert.

leo is a close friend of mine. incredible guy.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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#30

Thank you for the generous offer, This time we will take you up on it , if you are in town at the time. ( early January ) I really would like to drop the trailer before the appointment. What little work we have had done has been piece meal, with a rear inner axle seal and rear brakes due oil damage from the leaking seal in Jacksonville, and a rebuilt alternator in Chattanooga. All work seems to be holding up well.
It will give us piece of mind to have an expert go over our coach....

Guy & Sue
1984 Classic 40' #59
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