You are not logged in or registered. Please login or register to use the full functionality of this board...


Slide seal supply leak
#1

I was tracing a minor leak. One of the push-to-connects had a minor leak on the distribution block that feeds the slide seal pressure regulators. In the process of looking around I turned the plastic lever that looked like an on/off, but as soon as I did that it started leaking air and there are positions where it leaks less, but it still leaks. Do I have to replace the block with the plastic lever or is there some other way of sealing this, such as removing it and tightening something?

TIA
Mick


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       

Mick & Renee
2009 Newell 45’ 8” #1277, C15 625HP 12-speed ZF
Full time working and traveling. 
Reply
#2

If that was my coach all push in connectors would be replaced with DOT compression fittings.  I have not had a single dot compression fitting that I installed start leaking.  All of my air shut off valves have been replaced due to leaking.  And any component, like the air block, would be replaced once it leaked.

The push in air fittings are a time saver for production, but seem to start leaking after a few years of use in a coach environment.  Prevost owners have the exact same issue and also recommend replacement.

Good luck....................................

Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531
Reply
#3

Mick. Other than replacing the block / manifold, you may be able to disassemble and replace the packing around the shaft of the valve. If it has a packing nut, it may be as simple as tightening the nut.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Reply
#4

(10-22-2018, 04:42 AM)rheavn Wrote:  If that was my coach all push in connectors would be replaced with DOT compression fittings.  I have not had a single dot compression fitting that I installed start leaking.  All of my air shut off valves have been replaced due to leaking.  And any component, like the air block, would be replaced once it leaked.

Sounds like good advice, I'll go that route on all the connectors I replace.

(10-22-2018, 04:55 AM)Richard Wrote:  Mick.  Other than replacing the block / manifold, you may be able to disassemble and replace the packing around the shaft of the valve. If it has a packing nut, it may be as simple as tightening the nut.

Thanks. I'll take it off today and take a look.

Mick & Renee
2009 Newell 45’ 8” #1277, C15 625HP 12-speed ZF
Full time working and traveling. 
Reply
#5

The conclusion of the removing the air manifold is that the shaft of the valve is held in by a circlip and the failure is the seals that are on the plastic shaft. I'm going to get the genuine replacement, but in the meantime, a generic 1-in 4-out manifold from Amazon will do the trick.

Mick & Renee
2009 Newell 45’ 8” #1277, C15 625HP 12-speed ZF
Full time working and traveling. 
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)