I don't think removal of foam in the wheel well will benefit your search for the leak.
Over-retracting the slide will give you a good view of the exposed half of the seal. Using soap or bubble solution and adding some air to the seal might help you find the leak. I am doubtful that you will avoid replacing the seal, but I hope you do.
Russ
Russ White
2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
#530 ( Sold )
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004
It’s not an onerous task to retract the slide. The two time consuming steps are removal of the awning, just take the arms loose and lay them on the roof, and the removal of the hatch under the bed to access the limit switch. First time will take you three hours, the next time will take 30 minutes.
So I don’t know what your tolerance for tinkering with things vs buying new, but possibly unneeded parts would be. I know I didn’t answer your question, but only you know where you land on that issue.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
Newell is the only source. Many have been down alternate paths with no success.
1 Remove the slide topper awning attachments at the slide, unroll it, and drape back over the top of the coach. That is if you have slide toppers.
2. Raise the bed. Take the screws out of the access hatch on the driver side of the actuator arm.
3 Locate the bracket that holds the limit switches. Spray it with a different colored paint. This will make remounting the switches easier. Remove the switches and get them out of the way.
4 You will also see in this area a large bolt with a locking adjustment nut on it. Loosen the nut and back the bolt all the way off. This bolt will prevent the room from coming in.
5 bring the room in a few inches
6 remove the valence over the bed
7 Now you can continue to retract the room until the trim on either side touches. It should come in about 2 more inches than flush with the outside of the coach.
8 You now have access to the seal from the outside.
9 Remove the Allen head bolt in the stainless hold down clamp. An impact driver is the tool! If the insert strips, don’t fret, replace with a Rivnut.
10 Locate the inflation stem and disconnect in the wheel well.
11 Remove the seal and clean the dovetail seal channel.
12 This is the part that requires a bit of thought. Newell will supply a continuous seal. The seal must be cut for the bedroom. The two cut ends are folded back under themselves beneath the stainless hold down clamp. Measure thrice before cutting and leave yourself some extra, you can always cut it shorter.
13 Starting at the inflation stem, start the seal into the dovetail. Use the sealant that Newell will send you to lay down about 2 ft at a time. It starts to set quickly, especially if it is humid. Work the seal into the channel all the way around while using sealant. You will get back to the hold down clamp. Put some sealant on the inside of the seal before doubling it under. Clamp it down.
14 Extend the room and inflate the seal for 24 hours
15.The next part is a wee bit tedious. You have to adjust the hard stop bolt and limit switches so that the bedroom is flush with the coach. MAKE SURE the limit switch does not make too early, or the locking pins will descend and ventilate the roof of the slide. The paint marks you made earlier should help.
16. Reverse all the other steps.
It reads much harder than it is. The steps will make sense, I think, as you proceed.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
I can't help but hope you are wrong (even though you probably are not) about Newell being the only source. Just when I think I'm ready for what the seal might cost (in my mind $900-1000... which I thought was a lot), I got a price of nearly $2k.
My first guess is our seal is a type S-1 (see page 4 of catalog) with a type O-Ring fitting (see page 6 of catalog).
This may all be moot if SealMaster will only sell to certain suppliers (Newell), or you have to order a batch of them. And maybe others have found this catalog and still haven't been successful sourcing it. But I couldn't help at least running past you to see if this was any new information.
If I can remember correctly it was close to $1800 including tax for the seal, glue and rivnut last Oct. I have a seal that looks to have never been installed but the inflation hose has been ripped off it, it came with our coach with no story behind it. It would benefit to add the vacuum pumps if they are not installed on the coach yet, well worth a few bucks suck them flat when extending or retracting.
1999 45' with tag axle, #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
)
Just when I think I'm ready for what the seal might cost (in my mind $900-1000... which I thought was a lot), I got a price of nearly $2k.
