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Radiator Grounding Strap
Hello All,
Well it is my turn for a radiator change due to corrosion.  Mine is atypical of many of your radiators that you all have replaced.   Mine had  leak(s) in the bottom 5% of the core.  The corroded fins are in the bottom 20% of the core.....see picture.  BTW, Richard's idea of a table/bench to work off of and to slide the radiator out is golden! 

Once exposing the core, apparently someone in years past had used non distilled water.........    

My Question;
Many have expressed the reason for the corroded cores are a result of stray electrical currents.  Is there a proper method of grounding that works?  Has there been any current source(s) identified that are problematic?

Steve & Doris Denton
45' Newell #525, Bath & Half
2014 Honda CRV Toad
Run a strap from the lower corner of the steel radiator frame to the engine block. Top of the radiator is mounted through the aluminum CAC, the bottom of the radiator sits on a stainless sheet.
Both are
Dissimilar metals and potential sources of EMF.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Finally have gotten time to post a follow up report of my radiator change.  Used a local shop with multiple recommendations to re-core the radiator.  The core came from a US core manufacture.  With some clean up, the tanks were in good shape.  Used the down time to inspect the exhaust pipe, muffler and CAC.  Spent seven hours getting it time I will take the hydraulic fan motor out first thing instead of fighting it....just didn't have the room to get in there.  Richard could have gone in made a U-turn and come back out without getting dirty:-) 6'6" ain't going to happen with me! 

Going back in with it took two days only working late afternoon after it cooled off.  Attached a grounding strap to the bottom of the rad frame and routed it to the block as a precaution.  Have taken it out on a local run getting up to temperature with no leaks.  Also, have checked the fan bolt for torque.  Will be on a three day trip next week for further leak checks.

The cost $2,140 labor, tax and shipping included.  Replaced coolant (Peak Final Charge OAT) and hydraulic fluid $300.  New silicone hoses and upgraded to constant tension clamps $125.  Misc hardware $50.  So $2,615 for parts and a couple of days worth of my labor.  All total, given the shop work of the radiator, we were down for two weeks that gave me some quality time cleaning and inspecting an otherwise a difficult area to get at.

Steve & Doris Denton
45' Newell #525, Bath & Half
2014 Honda CRV Toad

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