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caterpillar coolant engine

Caterpillar C-13 ACERT Coolant Temp Fluctuation
#11
In my never-ending thirst for information and knowledge I discovered this Caterpillar Cooling System training information. You may find it an interesting read. 
JK



.pdf   CAT Cooling System Student Guide.pdf (Size: 3.05 MB / Downloads: 8)
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#12
Update:

My current game plan was....


-Verify coolant temps with a IR temp gun. After parking rig in driveway, SL indicated around 165*, shot thermostat housing at 163* or so... temp probe was two inches away... 

-Verify coolant level.  Slightly low... 

-Inspect coolant reservoir for integrity, inspect caps (two), drain and clean, consider a SS replacement. I replaced both caps on header tank (fill and top cap), waiting to clean tank.  

-Pressurize coolant system and leak down check. TBD

-Isolate cockpit heating lines to eliminate possibility of leaking heater core.  TBD

-Identify engine coolant temperature sensors and test TBD

-Replace engine thermostat. Opening that housing may give an idea if there is buildup in the coolant system.  I’ve purchased the parts to replace thermostat and associated equipment. 


My observations: 
Today I finished cleaning the radiator. I spent a significant amount of time doing this process. Dawn and Simple Green HD and lots of hot water. I purchased a wand to aid in the process. I thought I had a relatively clean radiator but after completing this process I don’t believe it was as clean as I thought. During the cleaning I would shine a flashlight into the radiator to look at the tubes. I even used a magnifying glass and took closeup pictures. It appeared to me that the tubes had a black/grey grime on them that didn’t simply come off easily. It was not easy to see at first but as I worked at it I started watching how the water flowed through the radiator as I sprayed it off (working from the outside first). At first the water obviously flowed through the radiator but there was a lot that was backing up. As I got things cleaned up it appeared most of the water flowed right on through. If you’ve cleaned your radiator you know how difficult it is to rinse from the inside out. Last night I worked after dark and put a light in the engine compartment to help me see what I was doing. I think... I had a area across from the center of the cooling fan that looked blocked. As I rinsed I think I saw the black/grey junk start to loosen up and come out. 

I’ve order a 52” wand to help reach the inside forward sections of the coolant stack. I’m going to get set up to easily wash this system out often. Our roadways and highways are a dirty place and until we crawl around the underneath our rigs we just don’t get the big picture. I’ve also ordered a 1’x2’ LED flat light to slip in the inside radiator area so I can stay on top of the radiator cleaning... yep overkill but it’s not fun getting hot in the mountains on a busy highway. 

   
   
   
   

JK
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#13
I ordered a 52” wand to help clean the radiator from the inside.

   
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#14
Update.... if anyone is still following Smile

Newell engineers worked with a hydraulic company in Tulsa Oklahoma. 

Hydraquip 
4130 SE 70th Ave

918-663-3661

I’m working with that team to order a few new parts that have been discontinued (Vickers) and superseded with Eaton items. I’ll post info as I receive it. 

I’m hoping to speak with their engineer that works with Newell. I have a list of questions about the system that will help me understand, resolve the problem, and hopefully help others. 

I believe I have multiple issue impacting the cooling system. Cat thermostat stuck open? Hydraulic pressure issue? Stuck solenoid hydraulic valve? I haven’t run the engine at a RPM above 1000-1200 but I’m certain I’m not seeing the fan running on high speed. It has been described on this forum as “blow your hat off” but most recently it’s been described to me as “scary high speed and I’m not comfortable standing near the plastic fan”. 

So... when my engine gets warm I’m not getting the airflow through the radiator that is required. We’ll see. 

JK
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#15
Jeff, you might also try to install a temporary gauge on the hyd line. On other forums I have read of the Cat engine developing a wear issue on the splines that drive the hyd pump. At a minimum, while you are in the fix it once and for all mode, I would pull the pump and look at the splines.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#16
Thank you Richard, I agree. 

Yesterday I received a 1/8” gauge. I was told that years ago Newel installed a gauge in the manifold using the noted port.

   

   

If the weather cooperates this weekend I’ll try to get the gauge installed. I think it will tell us a interesting story. 

JK
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712
#17
Yep but do not leave the gauge in place. They are known to blow out.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#18
what richard said. i had one on mine when i bought it and it blew out when i was at an emissions station. what a mess.

tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

#19
What about incorporating a valve so the pressure can occasionally be checked? Just a thought...
Kristi & Jeff 
2005 45’ Newell   #744
Bentonville, AR. 72712


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