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Engine Rear Access Door Latch Stuck Closed
#1

Attempted to access the engine to check a few things and the right latch would not release.  Suggestions on how to release the latch appreciated.

Sandy and Bob McBratney
Previous owners of 2007 Newell #1202  "Boomer" 
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#2

Sometimes the cable can break, or the latch is out of adjustment.

If you can reach the cable with some long needle nose pliers on the side that is stuck, then give the cable a tug.

If that doesn’t work, and the stuck latch is on the passenger side, you may be able to access the latch from the side opening.

And, if all that doesn’t work, then you are going to have to fabricate a rod with a bend at the end, so that you can reach through the rear grill and trip the latch.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#3

Thank you for the ideas Richard.  After tugging on the door itself a couple times i thought it best to sit back and contemplate how it all worked before forcing anything.  I think we're on the same wavelength.  I was thankful to find the vents on the bottom of each horizontal bar in the door which will allow putting some sort of hooked tool up over the cable or to catch the latch mechanism itself.  Hopefully once I get it open I'll be able to readjust the mechanism to prevent a recurrence.

Sandy and Bob McBratney
Previous owners of 2007 Newell #1202  "Boomer" 
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#4

Hi Sandy,
My coach #1218 does this sometimes, is the coach on flat ground? I have encountered a stuck catch I moved the coach then it opened, also there are 4 bolts 2 top and 2 bottom that have rubber stops on them, I have had some loosen and work outwards putting load on the door that then requires lots of (effort) to push the door inwards whilst operating the catch button.
Mine is a C15 so i can just about go in through the side door and reach past the engine compressor and grab the right catch steel wire and pull it inwards whilst your helper is (rattling) the door from the outside.

Good luck.
Ian

#1218 in Europe based in the UK
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#5

If the method continues, Newell used small turnbuckles on each latch to adjust the slack in the cable.

Take a good look at the cable, I discovered once that I was a few broken strands away from a locked hatch.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#6

Thanks again Ian and Richard. I'll go prepared to make some repairs if necessary

Sandy and Bob McBratney
Previous owners of 2007 Newell #1202  "Boomer" 
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#7

I had this issue in 746, if you reach in under the rear bumper you can actually feel the bottom latch that may release the cable. If the motor is warm be careful as you need to put your hand right in front of the crank pulley.

home: Southern California
05 #746 quad slide 2000i, 
Steerable tag 
Detroit Diesel series 60 515 hp
Allison trans

Toad 2013 Avalanche Black Diamond edition 4 wheel drive
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#8

Thanks for the added information. I'll give it a try if I can't catch the cable from above. Bob

Sandy and Bob McBratney
Previous owners of 2007 Newell #1202  "Boomer" 
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#9

I created a hook made of heavy coat hanger wire and inserted it beneath where I thought the cable ran to the latch. I was able to hook the cable and the latch popped right open. I found the small turnbuckles that Richard had mentioned and after removing the electrical tape which I assume was used to prevent the turnbuckle turning made an adjustment which allowed the door to open on both sides without difficulty. Thank you all for your help.

Sandy and Bob McBratney
Previous owners of 2007 Newell #1202  "Boomer" 
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#10

Newell didn’t do this on my coach, but the correct way to setup a turnbuckle is to also add a right handed nut to the right handed threaded eye of the turnbuckle. That way, the nut can be jammed against the turnbuckle and stop if from unthreading. A nerd project for a sleepy day in the campground.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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