Forest,
I think you may be right. But it may not matter for this application.
They only use a bit of that adhesive in the corner where they could not reach with tape. I don't think there will be any stress and really probably nothing was needed. (The tape covered probably 90% of the skin that they had pried loose)
cheers,
bill
I know this is an ancient thread, but it seems to be most detailed one about gluing the bay door skins back on. I wanted to see if anyone has any updates or something to add about doing this?
A few months ago I removed skins on two doors, cleaned thoroughly, sanded, and re-attached using the GFlex epoxy mentioned in this post. One of the skins I attached using the epoxy has already come loose. If I made a mistake on attaching it, I don't know what it would have been. So I'm hesitant to use this epoxy again. Has anyone used a product that is still holding tight years later? Any other thoughts?
Regards,
Alan Johnson
Alan,
I can tell you about the latest technique and materials I have tried, that are holding tight after three years.
Take a sharp pencil and mark the door and frame for reassembly.
After I got the skin off the door, I removed all the old VHB tape with 3M adhesive remover. I then wire brushed the mating surfaces with a wire wheel on a side grinder. It leaves a rough surface, on purpose.
I then use 1 inch long strips of 3M double sided adhesive about every 8 inches. This is to act as a spacer, and stabilized the skin while the epoxy is curing.
I applied a bead of Jamestown Distributors Thixo. Easiest stuff to work with ever. Put the frame and door together paying attention to alignment marks.
Clamp very lightly. Wait 24 hours.
After looking carefully at the failed joints using the Gflex, I realized that the clamping I had been doing was squeezing the epoxy out of the joint. I was using wood working thinking where more force is better. That is not the case with the skins. Light clamping, the thickened epoxy, and the double sided tape ensure the epoxy stays in the joint.
I then went back with the Thixo and ran a filet around the joint. I smoothed it out with popsicle sticks.
This approach works better than anything I have tried.
Richard,
I like your idea of using the 3m tape spaced out to help keep from squeezing out too much epoxy. I was concerned about squeezing out too much epoxy when i clamped them in place, especially as the skins seem to be slightly bowed on their own. So when I clamped them flat, it probably did squeeze out too much epoxy in places. My surface prep was similar to yours, except i used very rough sandpaper on the last step to rough up the surface.
Do you recall which of the 3m double side tapes you used (or thickness of tape)?
I'll try the Thixo as well.
Thank you,
Alan
Hmmmmmmm, it was a roll of 3M tape that was hanging on one of my pegboards............ would guess about 1 mm thick.
And get the the Thixo in the cartridge that fits a caulk gun. It’s not the cheapest way to go, but it is so EASY to use.
Last month while getting a radiator repair done at All Aboard America in Phoenix I noticed one of the mechanics working on a 3x4ft skin panel. The previous adhesive was being removed using an air driven disc sander. When I asked why he was sanding like that he said it was essential to get to bare aluminum before regluing the skin. He was sanding the entire surface of the panel. Having a fresh non oxidized or chemically contaminated panel I'd think would improve the bond.
Good points, aluminum oxidizes quickly once the surface is scratched thus compromising the adhesion.
It might be worth a call to Greg at Xtreme Graphics in Nacogdoches, TX. I know they have done delam repairs on fiberglass coaches, possibly Prevosts and Newells. He might be able to tell you what process they use.
https://www.xtremegraphics.net/contact/
936-560-5888
Three days ago I discovered similar delamination below the bottom corners on #2 slide as well. Very happy this old/ new post appears with all this excellent repair information! I'm very curious as to where the pressure may have come from to cause this in the first place. At first I suspected the air bladder may have pushed it out, but that seems unlikely since it's just not bulging enough. The spacing around the slide when closed is even. Does this just happen?
Reviving an old thread again as I too need to address the bay doors on my coach. Almost all of them are delaminated. Sikaflex 552 still the way to go? I will look into Thixo as well.
The technique used in thread 23 is holding up very well. I have not used sika for bonding the skins so i dont have any data on that