Newell Gurus

I am purchasing a 1988 classic. The one in the avatar and in the 88 in mesa thread. What do you think? I'm new to these coaches, but very mechanical. Should I do my own pre purchase inspection, maybe with Tom's help or possible take it to Leo at All Aboard America? I have a short list of focus items that I feel should get particular attention to alleviate costly repairs after purchase, in addition to the laundry list of inspection items confirming proper systems operation. Which items would be most important to you?

Fluids analysis- Which fluids? unfortunately the dealer just changed the engine oil, but not the trans. Coolant and differential? Slobber can for indications of coolant contamination

Air springs- spray to check for leaks, check control valves for age and condition? don't know much about the system operation.

Air systems- Air/water separators for indication of system integrity, tanks for leaks, brake actuators for moisture damage.

Water- Heater for anode condition, tank sediment to determine remaning life. Don't see a date on the tank.

A/C systems- a new York engine driven compressor was just installed. Not sure if the orifice or receive/dryer were replaced. I asked to have all other a/c pressures checked. Not so sure I trust it to be done or evaluated properly. Do I do it myself? How costly to repair these units? Are parts available?

Windows- there is some seal creep but not much and windshield rubber is soft, no cracks, but had some silicon at the top. Do they leak much? Should any of it be a concern?

The tires are new in front and '11s in the rear. the batteries are being replaced. some rust at front belly is being repaired

What can I do to check generator condition? fluid analysis?

I feel I could do a good job, but the list is long and I'm trying to focus my attention in the right areas. The purchase is As Is and I am trying to be balanced in my expectations.

I'm paying 50k for the coach. Sound ok?[/align]

Thanks for the help

Take a look at the vintage birds site. It's at www.vintagebirds.com. On the homepage you'll see a "checklist" tab. That list is pretty good for getting an overall feel for any used coach. It will work for any brand. Most things you'll have, a few maybe not, but you may also have more. It's at least a great starting point to fully go over a coach.

Heres another link from the WOG forum with a pretty good checklist http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/fo....php?t=562

I always look for any bodily fluids under the coach. If large, maybe a big headache

Alex, what engine does this '88 have? If it is a series 92, be sure the dealer put in 40 weight (single, not multi-grade) when he changed the oil. These 2 strokes do not like multi-grade oil unless the temperatures are at, or under freezing for extended periods of time. A lot of un-knowledgeable mechanics will swear you can put multi-grade in a 2 stroke, but they are very wrong. Please, please verify what oil was put in.....there are only a couple of good heavy duty single weight (40wt).....Shell Rotella and Chevron Dello 100.

I am running Mobil 40wt in ours. But my lube shop special ordered a drum for me. It was per DD spec.

You need a low ash 40 wt oil, the ones that Clarke mentioned fill the bill.

Yes it's a 8v92ta silver w/o ddec. The dealer said they put a 40w in it. Does the rest of my list seem adequate or is there something I'm missing

The air suspension can be checked by seeing how long it stays up and level with all air sources shut down. That checks most of the system. You may want to check the airbags for cracks even if they are holding air. Since the engine oil has been changed you may want to have the engine air box covers removed and a visual inspection of the cylinders. Another engine check is the color of the smoke when it starts; blue smoke (lube oil) for any length of time is a signal of potential problems and warrants further checks. Same thing for the gen engine.

My 77 windshield seal leaked from the top and was cured with a bit of sealant, never a problem after that.

System air leak test:
The standard test that Newell uses for the air system is to bring the air system up to the point where the 120 volt air compressor cuts off (typically about 90-95 psi) and see how long it takes for the air system to leak down enough for the air compressor to cycle back on (typically about 70-75 psi). The 120 volt air compressor should have about a 20 psi difference between cycle on and cycle off. If the system leaks down in less than 40 minutes, they consider there to be a significant air leak that should be located and repaired.
Air Brake leak test:
To make sure that your air brakes are holding air and that the check valves are working properly, use the techniques found in the Commercial Drivers License Handbook for most states.