Newell Gurus

Full Version: New Toilet - Waste tank hole question.
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Here is the desicion: All three inch piping and expand the existing 1.5 inch hole. Thanks to all!
Take pictures and post them as you do it so others can see.

Tom
(01-01-2015, 01:31 PM)encantotom Wrote: [ -> ]Take pictures and post them as you do it so others can see.

Tom

I shall!
(12-31-2014, 07:00 PM)Hotrodhornet Wrote: [ -> ]I just replaced mine last week. I got tired about worrying about having air pressure to flush the toilet.
I bought a flange for the floor that the toilet bolts to that required a 4" hole, I was able to drill the hole Offset from the original smaller hole to move it over about a 1".
That gave me enough room to mount the flange that bolts to the top of the tank, the flange on the tank   
Requires a 3" hole to be drilled in the tank, I was able to drill it straight down from the 4 " hole.
I drilled a 4" hole in a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood to use as a guide for the hole saw and screwed it to the floor where I wanted to drill the hole. Hopefully that will give you enough room.
It worked on mine. You call p.m. For my phone # if you want to talk about it.
We went camping at choke canyon lake last weekend and I am loving my new toilet. Paul

Hotrodhornet:

So you enlarged the existing hole in your waste tank?
Yes, enlarged to 3"
This is a very old thread but I need to say I only wished I could get rid of the air assisted MP toilet. My line does run horizontally for about 30-36" I was thinking a macerator toilet instead so the the mulched up stuff didnt get clogged in the small line that is there.

I know most folks love them but I think I'd rather just have a drop but that wont happen!
For different systems look at what boats use, the waste runs are typically much longer. You should be able to find something that would work in your Newell.
i have had zero issues with the toilet in my rear bath. it has flawlessly shot air assisted goodies to the tank for years.

tom
I'll argue, its a good system. just not simple.

By design the MP toilet allows the effluent to break down in the "hopper" tank, that is the first chamber. This creates a better environment in the main tanks with may not have the best organisms to break it down as fast. The discharge of the hopper is about 2" up off the bottom of the tank. Mostly only liquid ( or any thing that floats) is ejected to the main tank on a flush. The hopper tank gets charged with air once the toilet flapper closes and helps move and clear any effluent available to discharge under pressure to the main tank. This is important to understand for rear toilet situations. The rear toilet has about 18' to 20' & 8 each elbows on a 1 1/2" pipe before it gets to the main tank.

The system works well if the coach sits level or slightly nose down. Not cool to be nose up, or wrong paper, or hard water, you can accomplish the Trifecta as I did.

I learned this the expensive way, I had to remove the floor in the MB and clean out the pipes shortly after purchasing the coach.

BTW, I also learned that all the bathroom pipes are separate, Toilet, sink, shower. One fixture will not help flush the other clean.
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