To revive this thread, I am currently installing some maple into an 07 with 4 slides. I had to add some underlayment to the salon where the old carpet was. I started on the solid floor with the new engineered maple followed by the driver drop down floor.
That is going to be beautiful Ernie!!
new maple has been completed
the curb drop down did not act like the driver drop down. I could get the wood tight together on the driver side, but had to have a gap on curb side as that drop down popped
the wood when it was tight. So- the clients love it- that's what counts.
Very nice...Thanks for sharing!!
Wow, Ernie that looks great! You can't even see a seam in the wood! The only way I knew there was one was looking at the tile seam. Maybe in a few years when the carpet is worn down some more we will do this (maybe before!). That slide looks challenging...
Hi all,
Looks their is quite a bit about LVP on this thread. We are considering it for a minor floor remodel (galley, hall and bath). The question is whether or not to glue or not to glue the floating floor. I couldn't seem to find a consensus on here about that. From an expansion/contraction perspective. For those that have installed LVP, have you noticed any issues? (we put it down in our laundry and bathroom and left a very small edge gap, but its trimmed out with quarter round so you really wouldn't notice any movement). We are leaving the carpet in the living area so I will have to do some sort of transition between it and the LVP. Any tips/tricks or advice would be greatly appreciated.
PS: I looked for Richards follow up post on his install but couldn't find it. Maybe point me in the right direction.
Thanks, Tony
Tony,
Our LVP has held up well for five years. I glued it down per Ernie's recommendation. It is interlocking. It has not moved, bucked, or separated noticeably.
I did not use any quarter round. I ran the planks within 1/8 inch of the walls, and filled the gap with silicone caulk that matched the floor. You would have to be within a foot to even see it.
Or- use engineered wood. Then you can adhere it and cut tight against the walls. I have seen production coaches use quarter round. It looks really crummy at a rounded outside corner filled with caulking. Yuk
When I put cork in the bedroom and bathroom in my '93 I used a color matching caulk to fill the gap along the walls. Came out nicely. This was a floating floor over a heated mat. I didn't notice any shifting but it was a small area. Not sure how it would work in a 45' with a larger open area. I'd probably glue it if in the front.