Newell Gurus

Just checking to see what my options are for replacing several of the rivets on our 74 Classic.  Many are missing and some are replaced with steel and rusting.  I would like to stay original with the solid rivets.  The original rivets look like they are hammer pressed, not possible with out removing the finished interior.  Do pop rivets mean that those places have been replaced or repaired?  

What have other classic owners done and how do you like it?  I am looking at pure aluminum pop rivets unless you have other options for me. Would I need to silicone the hole of every rivet to keep water out? 

I also have some gold ribbon (stampped aluminium that is gold, about 6" wide) that is cracking I would like to replace it at the same time.  I'm going to call Newell and see if they have any extra stock.  Any other outlets for this material.  If you look at my pictures you can see it going all the way around the coach. 

Thanks,
Roy...  

Everything you need here!  (except gold aluminum)

http://bylerrivetsupply.com/products/cat...ad-rivets/

This is what I used...Better than pop rivets

(08-23-2015, 06:52 PM)HoosierDaddy Wrote: [ -> ]Everything you need here!  (except gold aluminum)

http://bylerrivetsupply.com/products/cat...ad-rivets/

This is what I used...Better than pop rivets

These look the same as I used, probably a cheaper source, I ordered some from
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Airs...ts-826.htm
They sell a shaver tool for them too but I just used a grinder with a flapper style sanding pad to sand them flush. They work well

On my 77 coach I used Cherrymax size 5-4 dome headed blind rivets I bought from Aircraft Spruce. The original rivets are 1/8" and the size 5 Cherrymax are 5/32" but the head size better matches the original than using 1/8".

Thanks for all the information!

Wanted to resurrect this thread to find out how the cherrymax or olympic (bulb tite) rivets have been holding up. I have several rivets that need to be replaced where the sidewall sheets overlap. I know these bulb tite style rivets were designed for our applications but wonder if they have enough tensile strength for where the sheets over lap. I think the olympic bulb tite have a tensile of 250 lbs/sq ft and I was thinking about using closed end aluminum rivets with steel arbor rated at 450 lbs. Appreciate any thoughts on the two. (I am not that concerned with appearance). I was also considering 3/16 bulb tite which have 450 lbs tensile instead of the 5/32. My concerns are strength/durability and water tightness.

I reriveted the perimeter of my door. I used solid rivets around the edge where the backside was accessible. On the hinge side I used the bulb rivets. It has been 5 years and holding up well.

The Cherrymax rivets I used held up for at least several years after I installed them, I no longer own the coach. They are a blind rivet but are also structural and not cheap. I installed them using a regular Pop riveter. There are even stronger blind aluminum rivets but they require special pullers that I didn't want to invest in unless necessary.