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Full Version: Suburban Heater--'82 Newell
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This information comes from an earlier repair but wanted to post it here so that we all could have it.
On our '82 we have a NT-16L in the Saloon (Living Room) and it supplies Heat to that area as well as the Tankage Bay, a NT-16L under the Refrigerator and it supplies Heat to the Stairwell and the Tankage Bay, and then we have a NT-24M under the Street Side Closet and it supplies Heat to the Bedroom area.

I had a bad Fan Motor in the Saloon and the repair parts were Suburban #520949 in a kit that included the Fan Motor and Gaskets. I was able to take a Stainless Steel Brush (Toothbrush) and Clean my Burners and Orifice. When you look through the Sight Glass you should see a Blue Flame and not a Yellow Flame.
All of my heaters had Wasp (Mud Daubers) Nests on the Fan Blades and that area. I have installed Screens over them now to try and keep it from happening again.
Replacement Ignitor Circuit Board was from Dinosaur Electronics. This one is much better than the original ones since it tries to light the burner 3 times before going into lockout. I will have to post that part number after I get back down to the coach and get a look at my spare.
Thank you Steve!
I am using model UIB L (Large) Spade, 12 Volts DC Circuit Board from Dinosaur Electronics. Here is what my spare looks like..
[attachment=3537][attachment=3538][attachment=3539]
Here's my problem. I pulled out the burner and cleaned it as you recommended as well as the orifice and it now will light with a bright blue flame.....was getting nothing before. It stays on for about 10 seconds.....maybe slightly more, but not long......then goes out. So, according to the manual it is either the electrode flame sensor, or it is the board. I'm inclined to buy the replacement electrode first....can't hurt....hoping it is that simple. How do I test the sensor to see if it is sending a signal to the module board?
As we discussed this AM. 1st Check the Sensor Connections, next take an Ohm Meter and check the Continuity of the Sensor Wire, next the manual states to check the Micro Amp to prove/disprove the Flame Sensor.
When Clarke & I discussed this it appears that the wire connection was OK so he is going to check on the Sensor. Personally I would buy a Spare Circuit Board and just install it and hope for the best (but I carry one as a spare)