I have dealt with AquaHot units for a few years but this one sure seems to be different....
As I understand it, Newell had them built with an extra 4500W 220V electric element and a 110V heating element to take advantage of 30 amp shore power .
The beauty of the Aquahot is the hydronic heating AND continuous domestic hot water for shower, faucets, washer etc.
My question....
When it is summer and the AC's are on, what do you do to heat up the domestic water for shower using the electric elements while hooked up to 50 amp shore power ? Flip the electric heaters switch ON...right ? But that kills the AC's.....makes no sense....You can not have electric heating elements to heat up the water for shower unless you shut off the AC ????
Looks to me like the only option to get hot water and still have AC in the coach is the fire up the diesel burner....is that the way they built it ? Can that be right ?
(07-14-2016, 12:05 PM)InfiLights Wrote: [ -> ]I have dealt with AquaHot units for a few years but this one sure seems to be different....
As I understand it, Newell had them built with an extra 4500W 220V electric element and a 110V heating element to take advantage of 30 amp shore power .
The beauty of the Aquahot is the hydronic heating AND continuous domestic hot water for shower, faucets, washer etc.
My question....
When it is summer and the AC's are on, what do you do to heat up the domestic water for shower using the electric elements while hooked up to 50 amp shore power ? Flip the electric heaters switch ON...right ? But that kills the AC's.....makes no sense....You can not have electric heating elements to heat up the water for shower unless you shut off the AC ????
Looks to me like the only option to get hot water and still have AC in the coach is the fire up the diesel burner....is that the way they built it ? Can that be right ?
In the summer when I need ac's, I take the wire off the 220v element so it only uses the 120 volt element. In the winter when I do not need ac, I will reattach it.
Even with 50 amp service, there is a chance of overload with all ac's on, and both electric elements on aqua-hot
Marius,
Call me and I will give you more info than I can type here on how to work around this unique to Newell situation.
You are correct that turning on the Aqua Hot electric function stops the A/Cs from running.
Rudy 7 one 3 8 one 8 3234
Rudy, I think several of us would be interested in this work around. Perhaps you can post a short version.
I just put my AH on diesel during the summer when I run the AH. I heat it up in the morning and cut it off and it gives me enough hot water for rest of the day. In the early morning when the AC is not running just cut it on electric if you so desire. If you don't exercise you diesel on your AH you will be in for repair.
Before I totally rebuild my AH using a boiler with only one bung for one 120VAC heater I just bypassed the Newell interlock that inhibited the A/C when the AH was on electric. I figured I was smart enough to manage my energy usage. That worked great.
Now with only the 1500 watt heater in play I don't have to think much about what I turn on when.
I have always wanted to maximize the use of the AH on electric. For six months of the year my electricity is unmetered and "free". I just run the AH on diesel monthly to keep the fuel from sitting too long in the nozzle and filters. Russ
The work around requires some working experience with 120 vac. But it is simple in that what you do is energize leg one to the AH heater without turning on the interior electric switch. Therefore the A/Cs work and only the 120 vac electric element works drawing 13 to 14 amps.
The easiest way I see to do this is at the wall mounted relay on the front wall of the heater compartment. Just use a switch or relay activated by a signal from a remote mounted switch to jump leg one around the relay and you are on.
A second way is to disconnect leg two at the relay, bypass the interlock as Russ has done and therefore the interior electric switch only energizes leg one and the 120 vac element.
This is the situation all other AH heaters more than 3 years old have and is as described by Russ above.
My coach is older, 95, so probably different, but even on gen or 50 amp, I can run 110 element and ac's.
Rudy looked at mine so he knows, but replaced 220 element and put switch in one lead and coach thinks I am on 30 amp and runs 110 element fine, which is fine for fast shower.
Resurrecting and older thread.
It appears that Each AC unit uses 16AMP 120VAC for power (double that for a double unit i.e. 32AMP)
The AH uses one 220VAC 4600Watt element draws 30 Amps and 1 120VAC that draws 14 Amps
My 120VAC is dead, and the 220V element works fine for heat/hot water.
I'd like to bypass the interlock ONLY. I can easily manage my power use so I don't blow breakers nor melt wires, but not sure how to do that for only the 220v element.
Possible?
At some point I will re-drain the system and get the frozen 120v element out.. but not anytime soon!
Thanks!
Rick, Call me and I will see if we can get you going. Rudy 7 one 3 8 one 8 3234