Occasionally I find the screws that hold the moldings on the side of my Newell loosen up. I was looking at a newer (1999?) Newell recently and I believe it only had screws at the ends of the moldings. I'm assuming Newell used an adhesive to hold them in place. I'm thinking of removing my moldings and adding an adhesive to them before screwing them in place. Does anybody know what Newell uses to hold the moldings on?
On mine, the molding is held to the body by hidden clips that the trims slides onto. Slides onto, not clips onto, so you can't just pop it off. It looks to me like you take the screws out at the ends and then slide the aluminum trim off of the clips.
I discovered the clips when looking at the same situation you describe, that the trim was loose. I found the clips by slipping something thin between the trim and the side of the coach. When I saw how much work it was going to be to get the trim off, I went in another direction. I masked off the coach and the edge of the trim and forced a white adhesive into the crack. Since the coach is white it is only noticeable if you are looking for it. It did stop water from running under the trim, and it hasn't worked loose in over a year.
I think the newer ones have an attachment part that the molding slides onto. The screws on the ends just keep it from sliding off.
But you could probably use 3M scotch mount molding tape to attach your molding. I think that's what car manufacturers use. Also what Newell uses to attach the basement door shells to the aluminum frames.
On my 93 coach it looks to me like they used double sided tape in addition to the screws. Since it is not structural I think you could get by with tape for mounting auto trim as Forest suggested. In addition, if you also wanted to keep the screws you might want to consider putting Rivnuts in the holes as they are less likely to strip the threads compared to sheet metal screws.
I got brave and pulled it off today. It appears that only about 10% of the double side tape was holding. All other moldings seem to be solid. I'm thinking this one may have suffered some trauma from the tire rubbing the fender after a RHCV or air bag failure. (note the heat damage to the paint above the tire) I've learned that my Newell will bottom out on the fenders before hitting the bump stops. This has puzzled me. The only thing I can come up with is that it originally was set up for 22.5" wheels but was fitted with 24.5". I am going to look into the bump stop situation soon.
For now I will replace broken rivets, find some new trim mounting tape and reinstall with new stainless steel screws.
All the early 90's Newells I have seen appear to have the drive axle tires that will hit the fenders before hitting the bump stops. My 1992 drive axle outside tires will rest on the fender when leveling. Newell started using the 11R24.5 tires in 1984 with the upgrade to the 8V92 and continued to use 24.5" wheels on at least the drive axle through the beginning of the 2000 model year.
Just an FYI but on my '93 (Jon's coach) there is a metal fender hanger at the middle top of the fender that will cut a nice groove in your rear tires if you drive it before it is aired up. Probably applies to other coaches as well.
Micheal,
For your records, the coach will sit on the fenders at least through number 512. Confirmed data on both sides.
Our 1984 with an 8v92, ( Todds old coach,) will sit on the fenders . If you are a novice and drive away, it looks like you are on fire in about 30 feet of travel. Do not ask me how I know this. Checklist now in place.