David, the 120V water pump is a monster. I pull 160 amps DC when it starts. If the microwave or aux air pump is running, you could easily top out over 200 amps for a brief time.
Don't know what inverter you have, but mine puts out 120 amps charging the house batteries.
Translation 300 amp shunt = good.
Thank Richard - I figured 100 would be too small.
How did you figure out your amperage draws? Just curious.
This is my choice, it displays average leg voltage and current and KW on one screen, which is where I leave it. There are several screens, each with different information. such as L1-N voltage, L2-N voltage, L1-L2 voltage, amperage each leg, kw, kva, pf, watt hours consumed, THD and much more.
The CTs need to be changed to 100:5 rating and making sure the voltage conductors are fused. The existing face plate is changed to one hole plus the thermostat.
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Just different viewpoints !! Some like a separate meter, some want different information. I waned KW.
I used a sophisticated amp meter that is corrected both for the galvanic attraction of the earth’s poles, and the direction the wind is blowing. Seriously i just looked at the inverter panel when the pump, microwave, or something else is operating. I have a magnum inverter with the shunt monitoring capability.
I replaced my 120v water pump with a 12v Remco 55A Aquajet-ARV. It is 5.5 gpm and 65psi, $220 on Amazon. it produces plenty of water, the Headhunter toilet works fine, and best of all, it is dependable.