Paul, I'm not sure how the windows are made on your Newell. On my 1993 Newell the windows have a drain hole at each end of the lower frame on the outside. There is a small plastic cover over these holes. These covers sometimes are lost but are mostly cosmetic anyways. If the rain cannot drain outside it could come down the inside wall. The wall could dry out before you notice or it could be running down the back side of the vinyl wall covering (most likely). You will probably find a vertical seam in the plywood wall below the window. The compound that Newell put on that seam will be deteriorated from moisture and years of movement. My Newell generally is very tight but I did find water stains behind the vinyl wall covering when I removed it during the remodel. The chances of water running down inside a wall are very minimal as it is filled with expanding foam.
Couple thoughts, do you have slide topper awnings? If so look at the side seam of the slide on the outside to make sure the skin hasn't pulled away from the side. On my '98 the spring on the awning over the bedroom slide got stuck and pulled the skin away just enough to create a leak.
Also when the slide is open make sure you can't see any daylight around the rubber bladder seal. There is a possibility of leaks around the corners.
Good luck
(08-14-2017, 05:14 AM)folivier Wrote: [ -> ]Couple thoughts, do you have slide topper awnings? If so look at the side seam of the slide on the outside to make sure the skin hasn't pulled away from the side. On my '98 the spring on the awning over the bedroom slide got stuck and pulled the skin away just enough to create a leak.
Also when the slide is open make sure you can't see any daylight around the rubber bladder seal. There is a possibility of leaks around the corners.
Good luck
There's no slide on this side and the focal point of the water is definitely in this corner.
The wall covering is bubbled away from the wall a bit at the very bottom of the wall where it makes contact with the carpet. I don't feel any bubbling and it feels firmly glued to the wall everywhere above the carpet level. I had figured inside the wall wasn't likely as well which is why I had ruled it out but figured I better make sure of that assumption after Richard mentioned it. The weep hole cover on this side of the window is missing but it has also been my experience that the lack of such doesn't provide an ingress point other than potentially putting water into the window track area and even then only if you have a hard spray right at the weep hole. The track area was bone dry.
There is a ZipDee awning over the window but again, the wall was bone dry and no evidence of water ever having flowed down it. And I pulled a lot of water out of that carpet, so I really do think it would have left some evidence if it flowed down the wall from the window or above the window.
We're expecting more rain later today, I'm going to go check things out when it's raining and if nothing I think I will pull a hose out and tackle this with some reproduction attempts. Just need a positive confirmation of the source before spending the money to put in new flooring.
Start low on the coach with the garden hose and don't be in a hurry to go higher. You may find the intrusion that way. I have found blue shop paper towels to be great tool in finding leaks cause they change color when wet. Slowly go higher on the coach until you find the leak. Base on the principle that water won't run uphill.
Love the fan joke in the sig
Quick question... These trim pieces on the exterior - are they purely vanity trim or do they cover any sort of seam in the shell?
I think they cover a seam. If you remove the screws then (IIRC) they slide horizontally an inch or two then pull off.
Thanks Forest. Looking at the end near the door it does indeed appear to cover a seam. Any way to coax it into sliding? It's a long piece, about 16' long but it won't budge. No way to really get a good grip on it either. I've tried a philiips screwdriver in the screw hold to try to provide something to actually push on but it doesn't budge a bit.
I have a sneaking suspicion that my leak is behind this guy. The lack of paint on one of the screws implies to me that at least 1 other person came to the same conclusion.
I just caulked that seam with clear sealant. Used masking tape before applying the caulk and, if I don't say so myself, you have to get real real close to tell I did it. Figured I could always slice it if I wanted to try to remove the cover. I was never sure what the cover covered, but I figured not letting water in there was a good deal. Russ
Paul,
I had a major leak in my coach that was on the seam under the trim. About a 2.5" gap long along the seam that was about .25" wide that let the water pour into my coach every time it rained. Luckily I was still under warranty so Newell fixed it and rebuilt the interior wall that was ruined since it had been leaking for over a year on their lot before I bought it.
Good luck,
On my 93 those are held with 3m double sided adhesive. I started at one end and gently pried it loose after removing screws. Doing it in the hot sun helps it to release. A heat gun is also handy. I caulked all the rivets and reapplied the adhesive and stainless steel screws
I was not experiencing leaks, rather the screws had corroded and were not holding well. Additionally a failing RHCV allowed the tire to rub the inner fender temporarily distorting the aluminum. In addition to caulking the rivet heads I caulked the screw threads when I installed them . I used a paintable caulk because I hope to paint the coach in the future and do not want to have to deal with silicone caulk.