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Hello All,
Wanted to get your opinions on a replacement toilet(s) for our Microphor Air Toilet LF210? We are looking to update to the current offering.... what is Newell currently using?

Thanks
Steve
Steve,
I believe the new Newells have the Headhunter Royal Flush. From what I understand, the Royal Flush requires a 1" line to supply the water. This is surprising in an RV...but that is what I heard. (I checked on HH site and indeed it is a 1" water line) Figuring out how to plumb a 1" line from the water bay to the toilet.....well it seems like a lot of work to me.

I was concerned about my LF210...and was thinking of replacing when the sequence valve started leaking air. I bought a new valve and a rebuild kit. Installing is a little tight, but can be done without removing the toilet. So now I have a perfectly good toilet.

bill
Bill,
Thanks for the heads up on the Headhunter.  I to saw the 1" line requirement....a 1" line can feed an entire house full of plumbing all running at the same time.  With out talking to tech support, I kinda think it is a 1" pipe fitting which the installer then adapts to the coaches plumbing.  I will call them on Monday to check out the details and report back.

Thanks
Steve
Hi Steve, please let the rest of us know what you found out on this! Inquiring minds want to know... price??? $$$$$
So reviving an old thread as I’m looking to replace the toilet in my Coach which used to be a microphor which was then switched to a SeaLand Traveler. We want something more luxurious. The toilet flange is 12” from the wall which is an issue with going to a Thetford Aria Elegance II. Frustrating. Might have to do surgery to get something plumbed in there.
Changing the master bath toilet out has been on the table for a while now.  Doris does not like the Microphor as she has to add water from a jug to complete a flush....TMI.  Have rebuilt the sequencing valve when we first got the coach in hopes things would improve she still did not like it at all.

Been looking at the different options on the market nothing really is a drop in replacement or the perfect solution for one reson or another.  The Head Hunter that Newell uses does indeed require a 1" supply line in order for the macerator to function properly.   Other macerating toilets require 12vdc power and controls mounted on the wall as well as special procedures to use.

We had a new SaniFlush Pro macerating toilet on hand for a bath install in our basement....sold the house before getting around to it.  Investigating it's potential use and as luck would have it, found an AC outlet in the cabinet above the toilet that is powered off the inverter.  That swayed the deal for SaniFlush.  

Wanted to keep things reversible in case we ever want to go back to the Microphor.  Capped the airline and stowed it inside the drawer cabinet.  Used the 1/2" pex supply line.  Cut the 1 1/2" ABS waste line just inside the cabinet and attached a slip joint transition to PVC as the fittings needed were not avaialble in ABS.  

I used a black piece of Marine Starboard to cover the cut tiles and mount the SaniFlush toilet using the existing holes.  The studs for the new toilet are countersunk screws from the bottom.  When locating the toilet had to pay particular attention to the drawer opening interference
The SaniFlush is supposed to have a positive vent i.e when flushing and when the pump turns on.  I am using a two phase vent....the existing plumbing during the in-rush of the flush to the macerator housing and the air admittance valve for the pumping phase.  Have read that some people have used no venting at all....did not want to try that just yet.  That is the reason for the Rube Golberg plumbing arrangement on the left.  Made up a trim box to hide everything and try to dampen the sound a bit with some cork on the inside.

Thinking ahead on how we are going to use it on the road....I set the water valve at an easy reach to turn on and off as needed.  We may not have to but before departure we will turn the water off and flush the toilet tank to keep down any water sloshing from the tank.  The bowl is deep enough there won't be a problem there thus keeping the water seal intact.

The downside, it's noisy and it uses 1.28 gal per flush so the jury is still out on that in real life usage if that is going to matter to us or not given the positive flushing it does.  


We had the Saniflush Pro, which is designed to handle a sink and shower, on hand but their current offerings have several other versions with smaller footprints, quieter and more economical water consumption.

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Any other options for replacing the Microphor? Ours is working (mostly) if you turn on 110v water pump, turn on the water in the bath sink, hold the flush valve for about 10 seconds (seems like an eternity) you might get lucky and hear the whoosh! As the tanks empties. It seems to be working currently about every 3rd time. Not sure if my toilet is directly over the tank but I don’t think it is because of the plumbing and AH unit in the bay below…
Have you replaced the sequencing valve?
Adrian my only suggestion is to try and avoid any 90º bends in piping from toilet to the tank. Use a sweep 90 or 2 45's. I had a Lazy Daze Class C for a short time and the plumbing piping from toilet to the tank was a 90 a couple feet of pvc then another 90 going into the tank. Unless you filled the bowl with water the piping would clog. One of the reasons I sold it.
We swapped out our air operated toilet to a Raritan Atlantes macerator type which uses 1" on the outflow of the macerator and finally finished trimming it out yesterday and followed Steve's lead by using black starboard to trim it out and its 1.5" higher now, the foot print under the old toilet was much larger than the new and we needed to cover up some broken pieces of tile, all thats left is to bolt it down. I think Steve and I were working on the same thing yesterday. Smile
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