Newell Gurus

The bushings in the tag axle suspension were significantly worn to the point that one of the tires was developing a wear pattern on the inside edge. I took the coach to Josam in Orlando, but they did not have the bushings to replace and the best they could do was sort of align the tag.

The replacement bushings are Ridewell 1110512B000 or Dayton 321-284. It turns out these are pretty common bushings. It is also the same bushing that is in the radius arms of the drive axle suspension. 

Being sort of a knucklhead, I thought I would replace the bushings myself. The first challenge is removing the through bolt. It is 1.5 inch in diameter with a 2.25 socket head. The outside one is easy if you have a 1 inch impact wrench. The one on the inside is harder since the driveshaft is in the way. I was able to use a slugging wrench, which is a big wrench that fits the bolt head and is designed to be hit with a sledge hammer. It was a bit hard to swing a sledge under the coach, and I got tired of hammering on it. However, I used a bottle jack on the handle of the wrench and used hydraulics to back the bolt out.
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Once the bolt is out, there is an easy way and not so easy way to do this. Of course I did the not so easy way first. The not so easy way is to remove both bolts and allow the tag assembly to drop out of the way. The problem arises with getting proper alignment to jack it back in place after the new bushings are in. 

The easy way is to remove the four bolts that hold one of the suspension carriers to the frame and pry it loose. Leaving the other side of the suspension intact allows the side you are working on to slip back into place much easier. Align the bushing, put the BIG bolt in, and then insert the four bolts that hold the carrier to the frame. It took 2 days to replace the first bushing, 1 day to replace the second, 1/2 day to replace the third, and two hours to replace the last one. That is a learning curve steeper than a Covid outbreak. 

Once the carrier is out, the challenge is pressing the old bushing out and the new one in. There is a specialty tool made just for this. The base tool is $700, and another $200 of correct size dies is needed. I am just too cheap. I used 3/4 all thread, and different size sockets to make a homemade press. You will notice the new bushing is about 1/4 inch larger in diameter than the hole. Fortunately, the carrier is chamfered on one side to help get it started. It really help to use a wire brush to completely clean inside the carrier hole, and to lube up the new bushing with silicone or vegetable oil. I am showing a picture of the homemade press. What you can’t see in the picture is nuts and washers on the INSIDE of the bushing to keep it from cocking or getting out of alignment while pressing it in. Using the nuts and washers inside as guides makes using the threaded rod press much easier. 
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I haven’t driven it yet to see if the new bushings make any difference in the drive, but looking at the old ones, I can’t imagine the tag axle alignment wasn’t moving around. All four of the old bushings were completely trashed. After all the suspension design is cantilevered on those bushings and they take the brunt of the force in normal travel and in turns. 

Many thanks to Bill Johnson @Bikestuff for the help in getting this done.

You are the man Richard!!

Still laughing over "That is a learning curve steeper than a Covid outbreak."

Can’t add to Richard’s excellent write up except to add a few pics.

Richard, was the main identifier of bushings being worn the tire wear? Was there any indication in driving, like additional noise in the suspension when hitting bumps? What is your coaches current mileage? Do you believe this is a mileage and/or age of bushing concern?

Mike,

Those are good questions. The tire wear was the observation that put me into action. I had not noticed any undue noise, thumps, or wobbles. The coach has 235K miles on it. The cantilevered design of the tag suspension puts a LOT of stress on those bushings. I don’t know if time or mileage was the key contributor.

I will report back when I have a chance to drive it to see if I detect any difference.

Good info here, I had sticker shock when I typed in the part number for the ridewell kit, $370 for 2! Then found the Dayton are only $32 each, we are going to have all of them replaced while here in Florida, if I was at home it might be a different story but want to get this steering issue fixed ASAP.

Thank you Richard and Bill for pictures! Pictures and part numbers are priceless.

(05-26-2020, 08:12 AM)Richard Wrote: [ -> ]The bushings in the tag axle suspension were significantly worn to the point that one of the tires was developing a wear pattern on the inside edge. I took the coach to Josam in Orlando, but they did not have the bushings to replace and the best they could do was sort of align the tag.

The replacement bushings are Ridewell 1110512B000 or Dayton 321-284. It turns out these are pretty common bushings. It is also the same bushing that is in the radius arms of the drive axle suspension. 

Being sort of a knucklhead, I thought I would replace the bushings myself. The first challenge is removing the through bolt. It is 1.5 inch in diameter with a 2.25 socket head. The outside one is easy if you have a 1 inch impact wrench. The one on the inside is harder since the driveshaft is in the way. I was able to use a slugging wrench, which is a big wrench that fits the bolt head and is designed to be hit with a sledge hammer. It was a bit hard to swing a sledge under the coach, and I got tired of hammering on it. However, I used a bottle jack on the handle of the wrench and used hydraulics to back the bolt out.




Once the bolt is out, there is an easy way and not so easy way to do this. Of course I did the not so easy way first. The not so easy way is to remove both bolts and allow the tag assembly to drop out of the way. The problem arises with getting proper alignment to jack it back in place after the new bushings are in. 

The easy way is to remove the four bolts that hold one of the suspension carriers to the frame and pry it loose. Leaving the other side of the suspension intact allows the side you are working on to slip back into place much easier. Align the bushing, put the BIG bolt in, and then insert the four bolts that hold the carrier to the frame. It took 2 days to replace the first bushing, 1 day to replace the second, 1/2 day to replace the third, and two hours to replace the last one. That is a learning curve steeper than a Covid outbreak. 

Once the carrier is out, the challenge is pressing the old bushing out and the new one in. There is a specialty tool made just for this. The base tool is $700, and another $200 of correct size dies is needed. I am just too cheap. I used 3/4 all thread, and different size sockets to make a homemade press. You will notice the new bushing is about 1/4 inch larger in diameter than the hole. Fortunately, the carrier is chamfered on one side to help get it started. It really help to use a wire brush to completely clean inside the carrier hole, and to lube up the new bushing with silicone or vegetable oil. I am showing a picture of the homemade press. What you can’t see in the picture is nuts and washers on the INSIDE of the bushing to keep it from cocking or getting out of alignment while pressing it in. Using the nuts and washers inside as guides makes using the threaded rod press much easier. 

I haven’t driven it yet to see if the new bushings make any difference in the drive, but looking at the old ones, I can’t imagine the tag axle alignment wasn’t moving around. All four of the old bushings were completely trashed. After all the suspension design is cantilevered on those bushings and they take the brunt of the force in normal travel and in turns. 

Many thanks to Bill Johnson @Bikestuff for the help in getting this done.

Wow impressive you took on what looks to be a heck of a tough job. I have the same thing going on with my coach. It was noticed the the inside of the drivers side 
inside tag tire was extremely worn down. And  the tag tire appears cambered in. A  couple heavy truck mechanic friends said the tag bushings a re shot on both sides more so on drivers side. My tag looks exactly the same as yours. So the two part  numbers you listed are the comparable bushings that will work ?

Yes. You will notice a great improvement in the way the coach drives at freeway speed

After I get the bushings replaced I’m getting all new tires in spring. It drives nice on the highway now but I probably just don’t have perspective as I had a class c until this past July.So this thing i awesome in comparison