My battery compartment door will not open. The handle does not pull up enough to actuate the wires to open the side locks. I have the key to unlock the door manually. It turns normally but the handle still only comes up halfway. The electric lock sounds like it is working. Any ideas?????
Can you remove the gasket anywhere around the bottom enough to slide in a piece of stiff wire to grab the wires for the side locks?
Sorry, can't quite remember how the Newell compartment doors are, on my Foretravel there is just enough room to do the above.
On my Newell there were "emergency" pull wires that hung even with the door gasket for each latch mechanism. Pulling on the looped end would disengage the latch. So mine had two latches for each compartment door. I am not sure if the older models had these installed. Saved my bacon a few times for sure!
Good luck!
Oscar
Likely will not that the mechanism on the backside of the tumbler has come loose. Fashion a slim jim with a hook, slide up from the bottom and catch the trip wire one side at a time. Looking at the back of another’s door will help you visualize what you are doing
Can't open the bottom open enough to get by the 2" compartment frame.
Might be able to drill a hole through the bottom and fish a wire with a hook bent on the end to hook over the cable .
Or if your coach has the square latches like mine u may have to sacrifice the latch mechanism by drilling through it.
The lock is held in by the 1/4" bolt that holds the electric locking mechanism together. Drilling it out to be able to knock the bolt in would allow the handle to operate the wires to open the door. Any one see a down side other than losing the lock on that door?
Steve,
Before you drill....can you use your snake camera? There is likely a hole on the right wall that the temperature monitor wire goes through. Maybe you can see what is going on.
Bill
I had the exact same thing happen to the same compartment. I could not snake a wire up there due to the frame being in the way. I drilled the screw heads off of the four Phillips head machine screws that held the latching mechanism in place. By fiddling with it that released the latch enough to actuate the cables. Cover the area with aluminum tape to protect the paint and use a brand new bit when drilling. I managed to slip off and nick the paint as you can see in the picture. To reattach the latch I used some machine screws and self locking nuts. Hope this helps.
All of the suggestions have been great!!! Thanks...............................