Newell Gurus

How do I remove the SCS basement air on our coach?  Which side (driver/passenger) is A/C 1&2 and which is 3&4 please?  I am having issues with 3&4 and it’s about time that I bone up on A/C repair… 
Issues so far:  A/C 3&4 will come on in the LOW thermostat setting and work for a while (I forgot to time it) and then blow the fuse.  
I was going to run to the electrical supplier in Lufkin and see if they had the capacitors and slow start thingy I need but I don’t want to just start buying parts (like I did on the generator).  Any help is appreciated!

Are your coils clean?

Hi Forest: Have not pulled the unit out to check yet - have to figure that out first…
I was reading info online and found a Supco slow start capacitor but it says not to get this one - is this GOOD information?
The Supco uses a Positive Temperature Coefficient Relay (as stated on their website) not a Potential Relay. Not Good! Only use Hard Start Kits that use a true Potential Relay. The RectorSeal Kickstart (2 wire) and the 5-2-1 Compressor Saver (3 wire) hard start kits use a Potential Relay. I recommend the Kickstart (it uses 2 wires that connect to the Run Capacitor - HERM and COM). But the Compressor Saver is also good (3 wires with one connecting to the common / ground on the Contactor relay). They both work the same way - the Potential Relay detects the pickup voltage (back EMF). This causes the relay to disconnect the start capacitor when the compressor reaches about 75% speed (usually less than a second). Note: Supco does have hard start kits with a Mechanical Potential Relay (Models 3W1, 3W2, & 3W3) but they are not available on Amazon

Rectorseal 96503 Kickstart T05: https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-96503-...4957&psc=1

Excellent diagnostic sequence in the manual.

http://newellgurus.com/attachment.php?aid=2427

I see in the instructions (thank you Richard) that I should be able to do most diagnostics without removing the unit(s). I’ll work on it week after next when we are back at home.