12-17-2021, 05:52 AM
12-17-2021, 07:42 AM
Richard,
Nope.. just looking to get more versatility from my cooktop. One of the Halogen bulbs is out and I cant find any info about a replacement aside from "out of stock" I'd prefer a 2 burner induction at 110V, but many of the useful features are only available on the 220v versions. If you look up at my last post regarding circuits, perhaps you can tell me if it's even possible.
Thanks,
Nope.. just looking to get more versatility from my cooktop. One of the Halogen bulbs is out and I cant find any info about a replacement aside from "out of stock" I'd prefer a 2 burner induction at 110V, but many of the useful features are only available on the 220v versions. If you look up at my last post regarding circuits, perhaps you can tell me if it's even possible.
Thanks,
12-17-2021, 10:35 AM
Well………..I thought I did answer your question about circuits.
Let me try another way, with a little more electricity basics. 110 V consists of a hot leg, neutral leg, and ground for safety. The ground for AC is way different in function than the ground for a DC circuit.
220 that we have on our coaches and in your house is two hot legs, black and red. The legs are out of phase in the alternating current flow.
Now, if you take one of those legs in the 220 to neutral, you have 110.
That is why I said to look carefully at the wiring diagram of any stovetop you buy. If it has only two hot legs and no neutral, then it is pure 220. It is has two hot legs and a neutral, then it MAY be that it is actually two 110 V circuits.
After all, the usual application for the stovetop is going to be in a home that would normally be wired for a 220V cooktop.
So…………you have the cooktop out of your coach. How many wires and what colors were wired to the cooktop? The answer to that will tell you whether you can split the wiring at the cooktop into 2 110 circuits without pulling more wiring.
Let me try another way, with a little more electricity basics. 110 V consists of a hot leg, neutral leg, and ground for safety. The ground for AC is way different in function than the ground for a DC circuit.
220 that we have on our coaches and in your house is two hot legs, black and red. The legs are out of phase in the alternating current flow.
Now, if you take one of those legs in the 220 to neutral, you have 110.
That is why I said to look carefully at the wiring diagram of any stovetop you buy. If it has only two hot legs and no neutral, then it is pure 220. It is has two hot legs and a neutral, then it MAY be that it is actually two 110 V circuits.
After all, the usual application for the stovetop is going to be in a home that would normally be wired for a 220V cooktop.
So…………you have the cooktop out of your coach. How many wires and what colors were wired to the cooktop? The answer to that will tell you whether you can split the wiring at the cooktop into 2 110 circuits without pulling more wiring.
12-17-2021, 11:39 AM
All I know is whenever I see some of these electrical threads I can only think of one thing as it relates to my current electrical skill set:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...9Hgywf9JIY
I'll let everyone else guess who's playing me and who's playing Richard :-)!
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...9Hgywf9JIY
I'll let everyone else guess who's playing me and who's playing Richard :-)!
01-09-2022, 07:29 PM
Following this thread. I have been considering switching out our Gaggenau for induction for some time. We have a portable one-burner Duxtop induction that we love.
It had not occurred to me to look for a larger induction top to fill up the whole cutout - I had been looking for a two burner unit that would fit in the existing drop-in "well" for the Gag. If the top of a larger unit was thin enough on the edges, it would still be basically usable counter space when not cooking....win-win.
It would not really be an issue for us to keep it at 220v because we are almost always plugged in to 50 amp, or could fire up the genny if necessary.
It had not occurred to me to look for a larger induction top to fill up the whole cutout - I had been looking for a two burner unit that would fit in the existing drop-in "well" for the Gag. If the top of a larger unit was thin enough on the edges, it would still be basically usable counter space when not cooking....win-win.
It would not really be an issue for us to keep it at 220v because we are almost always plugged in to 50 amp, or could fire up the genny if necessary.