Newell Gurus

Full Version: leak at 110v air comp. water separator
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
Pages: 1 2 3
Chester, I just had this regulator replaced by Newell and part was about $70 they have them in stock, I don't know if is repairable , I had problem with the relay sticking and he replaced both parts at the same time
Les, I replaced mine last year and I recently drilled a hole in the floor for the exit tube to allow the water to drain under the coach.
I'm with Larry on this one. I find it easier to pull the lariat on the petcock once a month.
Interesting thread because today I just found the separator in the engine bay by the six pack leaking. Disassembly shows the classic hairline cracks in the acrylic bowl. I replaced the same separator twice on my previous coach. These separators were very common on the automated equipment that is used in manufacturing. I bet I didn't see two fail in ten years. Must be something about the vibration.

I think I'll. install the lanyards soon!
I've had to replace that one once myself. Same failure mode. Russ
This is an old thread, but this relates.

I think my separator for the front 110v air compressor doesn't work. Can somebody explain how it works? I see wires coming to a solenoid. Is it a 12v solenoid? Should it come on each time the compressor comes on?
I'll take a shot at the explanation David and Teresa.

The solenoid is an electrically operated valve - a very small one. When the compressor is running, the valve received voltage and is energized causing it to close. This is called a normally open valve ( solenoid ). So when the compressor is running, it does not let air or water out of the bottom of the water separator. But when the compressor stops, the valve becomes de-energized and it opens. Then any water and the air between the compressor at the check valve at the inlet to the auxiliary tank is released. This accomplishes two necessary functions. One it unloads the compressor so starting it next time is easier, and two, it drain any water in the separator. I had to modify my valve a little to get it to work properly. When de-energized is was not really opening all the way. Hope this helps. Russ
Thanks Russ.

Yea, mine doesn't open to drain at all. How did you modify?
I was hoping you wouldn't ask that! I took it all apart and I think I remember something was just a little too long and I shortened it, but it has been too long to remember exactly. Just start with disassembly and see if you can figure it out. Sorry that's all I have. Russ
I had the problem with the solenoid working but not emptying the bowl. I installed a slightly larger O ring in the plunger and it works perfectly.
Pages: 1 2 3