(08-29-2023, 06:37 PM)Latitude 28 Wrote: [ -> ]Adam,
While you are there might as well do the other slide lock pin as its not far behind the one you have leaking now. Also, plan on doing the bedroom slide lock pins.
yes sir I plan on rebuilding all of them
Adam,
Of the four slide locks the seal was blown out on three of them to the point I could not see a failure point. The last one had not started to leak so being very careful taking it apart I found this seal inside the lock in this condition.
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attachment=12310]
Finding this condition makes a solid case to use the Double X profile o-ring as stated in my post. As a side note; they have preformed flawless on our slide locks.
(08-30-2023, 03:15 PM)Latitude 28 Wrote: [ -> ]Adam,
Of the four slide locks the seal was blown out on three of them to the point I could not see a failure point. The last one had not started to leak so being very careful taking it apart I found this seal inside the lock in this condition.
Finding this condition makes a solid case to use the Double X profile o-ring as stated in my post. As a side note; they have preformed flawless on our slide locks.
I ordered everything from o ring store and should have today. Biggest issue I have currently is I cannot get the slide back in due to the leak is so bad it cant build pressure. So off to the hydralic store today to get some caps. I am going to cap the lock and unlock hydralic lines off at the pump and hopefully i can get the slide in a bit to tackle this repair. Yesterday we dumped about a quart of fluid out of that slide lock area in a matter of seconds. Luckily it didnt get on the carpet or furniture. I was able to get a small mirror up above that valance piece. it looks like it possibly is held on by 5 or 6 thru bolts. Hoping I can just back those nuts off and pull that large valance off. guess glad this has happened at home and not somewhere in the middle of nowhere
If I remember correctly -4 AN is the size.
No two Newells are alike. Yours may be different from mine.
However, the first time I tried to remove the front valence, I put myself through a whole bunch of tortuous work that was unnecessary. There are about 6 screw heads you can see that hold the pieces of the valence together. It is easy to think those are the screws that need to be removed to get the valence down. They are NOT. Look at the ends of the valence, about 18 inches in, for a bolt at each end. That bolt fits into a slot that is cut into the French cleat. It acts as a pinch bolt. If you loosen it, all that is holding the cleat on is friction. Push straight up. With enthusiasm.
When I pull the slides in this morning, I will try to get a pic to illustrate.
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attachment=12339]
The red tape is a wide plastic tape I use to provide something between the male and female sections of the cleat. Mine squeaked like a mouse before I added the tape.
(08-31-2023, 05:48 AM)rvguy Wrote: [ -> ] (08-30-2023, 03:15 PM)Latitude 28 Wrote: [ -> ]Adam,
Of the four slide locks the seal was blown out on three of them to the point I could not see a failure point. The last one had not started to leak so being very careful taking it apart I found this seal inside the lock in this condition.
Finding this condition makes a solid case to use the Double X profile o-ring as stated in my post. As a side note; they have preformed flawless on our slide locks.
I ordered everything from o ring store and should have today. Biggest issue I have currently is I cannot get the slide back in due to the leak is so bad it cant build pressure. So off to the hydralic store today to get some caps. I am going to cap the lock and unlock hydralic lines off at the pump and hopefully i can get the slide in a bit to tackle this repair. Yesterday we dumped about a quart of fluid out of that slide lock area in a matter of seconds. Luckily it didnt get on the carpet or furniture. I was able to get a small mirror up above that valance piece. it looks like it possibly is held on by 5 or 6 thru bolts. Hoping I can just back those nuts off and pull that large valance off. guess glad this has happened at home and not somewhere in the middle of nowhere
Adam,
I found out when I capped my lock hydraulic lines the lock reed switch could not tell the HWH system what the proper state and sequence the slide's hydraulic system was in. In my case the floor would not move. From your post I am reading the slide is out....is that correct? Even with the leak has the slide locks retracted? With n the lines off you may be able to manually move the slide pin on the leaking lock being cafreful not to score the slide lock plunger.
So yesterday I capped the hydralic lines on the lock/unlock solonids and i did get the slide to come in. So today I am going to pull those locks down and rebuild. I did talk to Newell about this the other day so I have a Question,, Mark at Newell told me that on the older hydralic room slide units they have been capping the lines and taking the slide locks apart and pulling the pin out, then putting the assy back in ( with no pin), He states it just keeps from having these issues again because it makes a mess.. ..My question is has anyone done this and will the slide move while driving down the road ? I would think the lower hydralic cylinders would hold the slide steady but last thing I want to do is blow those slide seal airbags out.
Well that's news to me, we recently purchased a brand new lock from them last December and it's not quite the same as the old one so there has to be a little fabrication to make it work. Another problem is that on these older coaches the top has a tendency to lean in causing the pins not to properly line up with the holes more than likely that is why they're eliminating the locking pins. IMO
(09-02-2023, 10:27 AM)Jack Houpe Wrote: [ -> ]Well that's news to me, we recently purchased a brand new lock from them last December and it's not quite the same as the old one so there has to be a little fabrication to make it work. Another problem is that on these older coaches the top has a tendency to lean in causing the pins not to properly line up with the holes more than likely that is why they're eliminating the locking pins. IMO
so if i eliminate the pins you think the slide will move while driving down road ?
I doubt that unless you have a hydraulic leak and even if you did its not easy to move.