Newell Gurus

(04-18-2024, 12:07 PM)Richard Wrote: [ -> ]Steel.

A thin tool on the end of an oscillating tool is your friend.

Great, gives me a reason to finally buy and oscillating tool!

The first oscillating tool I bought was 120vac and got so hot you had a hard time holding it, the new one in the tool box is 20V Dewalt and kicks butt on the older versions. Takes off that bonding tape in seconds compared to using a scraper.

(04-19-2024, 03:34 AM)Jack Houpe Wrote: [ -> ]The first oscillating tool I bought was 120vac and got so hot you had a hard time holding it, the new one in the tool box is 20V Dewalt and kicks butt on the older versions. Takes off that bonding tape in seconds compared to using a scraper.

Yea, guess I am just old school. I could use that for removing gaskets and probably is much easier. Mine will most likely be a Milwaukee as I am deep in the red with tools and batteries. We also get a good discount through work, since we went to all Milwaukee tools.

I have a hand me down oscillating tool that's 120vac. Works well except is has a screw to hold the blade. Always comes loose from the vibrations. The clamp system is MUCH better.

Well Forest we know what to get you for Christmas!

Once you have the gun Simon has referred to, you’ll find you use that 2 part adhesive on lots of stuff. It works very well, even when under shear type tension.

So case in point on the epoxy I used. There were some aluminum trims on the side of my coach that would tend to contract and relax with the temperature swings. This would cause the screws to back off. Once a week, I would have to go out there and screw them back in. (Summertime in AZ) LocTite did not help. The VHB eventually gives up despite it being flexible. I used some of the epoxy I posted about on Amazon for the moldings. After I got the coach back from paint and about 6 or 8 weeks later, I noticed some areas where the paint began to wrinkle and pull apart where it flowed from the side aluminum skin to the top of the moldings. Paint shop will fix that once I make my way back to Iowa, but the point I am trying to make is that the epoxy is super strong stuff and held the moldings. That being the case, for anyone looking to paint their coach, make sure they "knife" a cut along the moldings to separate the paint so that the different metal thicknesses can move at their own rate otherwise it will pull the paint and anything around it. As for the solution to the pulling screws, my next possible fix is to get longer 3" #8 screws and have them not only pass through the skin as original, but also into the interior wall plywood without poking through. In some areas it won't matter such as behind cabinets and fridge. This may help keep the screws from backing out although the risk of them breaking may be a concern if the movement is high. I believe this is mostly in areas such as my climate. The new lighter colors of the coach may help but the true test will be when June rolls around.

darlene and i went by simons place yesterday. his newell is beyond pristine. you would think it is a brand new coach the way he has redone absolutely everything.

got the 2 part gun from him too.

you gotta see his newell.

thanks simon

tom

It was great to see you guys again!