[rheavn]

I'll ask again.  Shut off your 110V air compressor, turn on your 12V air compressor, run the air down until the 12V air compressor turns on.  Now tell me how long it takes from the time the 12V air compressor shuts off until it turns on again.  

Note:  To run down air pressure you can open the petcock on the air tank mounted to the front wall of the right wheel well until the 12V air compressor comes on.

[newell_0]

I'll ask again.  Shut off your 110V air compressor, turn on your 12V air compressor, run the air down until the 12V air compressor turns on.  Now tell me how long it takes from the time the 12V air compressor shuts off until it turns on again.  

Note:  To run down air pressure you can open the petcock on the air tank mounted to the front wall of the right wheel well until the 12V air compressor comes on.

Hi, Steve,

I don't think I have a 12V air compressor. My 110 V compressors run off of the inverter. I asked the tech at Holland and he too said that there is no 12V compressor. If there is one, where might it be located?
Thanks

[rheavn]

Your Newell is newer than mine, but you should have one 12V air compressor and possibly two.  My 12V air compressor switch is right next to the 120V air compressor switch on the galley control panel.

If you don't see a switch, first check your owners manual.  If you don't find the answer call Newell.  If you call Newell also ask them what items in your coach the 12V air compressor services.

On my coach the 12V air compressor is hooked to the slide seals, both toilets and both air pocket doors.

The reason for the question is to try to eliminate air circuits so you don't spend money looking where there are no leaks.

[newell_0]

Your Newell is newer than mine, but you should have one 12V air compressor and possibly two.  My 12V air compressor switch is right next to the 120V air compressor switch on the galley control panel.

If you don't see a switch, first check your owners manual.  If you don't find the answer call Newell.  If you call Newell also ask them what items in your coach the 12V air compressor services.

On my coach the 12V air compressor is hooked to the slide seals, both toilets and both air pocket doors.

The reason for the question is to try to eliminate air circuits so you don't spend money looking where there are no leaks.

Steve,
I just came back from checking my SilverLeaf switches and don't see a 12V option.  The galley control panel looks like the picture

[rheavn]

I don't see a switch, but still check as I suggested.  If they did away with the 12V air circuit it will be harder to point you in the right direction without using a leak down detector on your coach.  A leak down detector will tell you where there are leaks and where there are no leaks. 

Try one other check.  Turn on your 110V air compressor and when it shuts off, shut off the switch to the 110V air compressor.  How long does it take to leak down to zero on your supply gauge?  When it leaks down to zero what is the reading of the two needle brake gauge?

FYI  I looked at the specs on a couple of 2008 Newells that are for sale & they had two 110V air compressors and no 12V air compressor.  Due to the air door and other air uses they may have found the 12V air compressor wouldn't keep up.

[newell_0]

I don't see a switch, but still check as I suggested.  If they did away with the 12V air circuit it will be harder to point you in the right direction without using a leak down detector on your coach.  A leak down detector will tell you where there are leaks and where there are no leaks. 

Try one other check.  Turn on your 110V air compressor and when it shuts off, shut off the switch to the 110V air compressor.  How long does it take to leak down to zero on your supply gauge?  When it leaks down to zero what is the reading of the two needle brake gauge?

FYI  I looked at the specs on a couple of 2008 Newells that are for sale & they had two 110V air compressors and no 12V air compressor.  Due to the air door and other air uses they may have found the 12V air compressor wouldn't keep up.

Actually, I had the 110V Compressor turned off. I started the engine the following day to move it a bit forward. When it aired up the front and rear air brake gauges were up to normal but the aux air gauge on the dash was zero until I turned the 110 V compressor switch on. I, too, have two 110v compressors. I'll call Newell, as you suggested, just to make sure. Thank you very much, Steve!

[rheavn]

Sayed,
We all learn something every day.  Newell changed the air system on the newer coaches.  They no longer have an isolated air system for the slide seals, toilets, pocket doors and air door.  The isolated system was designed for dry camping.  Your coach has two 110V air pumps, but the second is only a back up for the main one.  Your 110V air compressor services the entire coach.  Therefore it becomes harder to find air leaks, because only the brake system, through check valves is isolated from the main coach air system.  This info came from Jim Gehring at Newell service.

Let me know how the brake system test comes out.

Turn on your 110V air compressor and when it shuts off, shut off the switch to the 110V air compressor. How long does it take to leak down to zero on your supply gauge? When it leaks down to zero what is the reading of the two needle brake gauge?

[newell_0]

Sayed,
We all learn something every day.  Newell changed the air system on the newer coaches.  They no longer have an isolated air system for the slide seals, toilets, pocket doors and air door.  The isolated system was designed for dry camping.  Your coach has two 110V air pumps, but the second is only a back up for the main one.  Your 110V air compressor services the entire coach.  Therefore it becomes harder to find air leaks, because only the brake system, through check valves is isolated from the main coach air system.  This info came from Jim Gehring at Newell service.

Let me know how the brake system test comes out.

Turn on your 110V air compressor and when it shuts off, shut off the switch to the 110V air compressor.  How long does it take to leak down to zero on your supply gauge?  When it leaks down to zero what is the reading of the two needle brake gauge?

Steve,
That is good to know - thanks for finding that out!
The air brake system is holding pretty good. I had the engine on, air brakes were all up, parked and turned off the engine, turned off the 110 V Compressor on Ssturday because I did not want it to cycle every 38 or so minutes. When I started the engine on Wednesday (three days later) my air brake gauges were almost at normal pressure at the start, of course my aux gauge was down to zero. After this three day period the coach was leaning about three inches lower on the driver side. I tried to contact Newell twice today and twice yesterday, but wasn't able to talk to human and I didn't leave a voice mail
Although I haven't not timed it, but my hunch is the aux air gauge will zero out in about an hour. If you want me to time it, I can do it and let you know?

[rheavn]

No need to time it.  The test tells us that your leak is in the main coach system, which is the largest system.  Don't let some one spend time on the brake system as that is not where the system is leaking.  To truly find & fix all your leaks it is going to take a systematic search which eliminates components and couplers as you search.  I hope you can find some one competent to do the search.  No short cuts in this process and will be expensive.

If you ever decide that you want to start looking yourself, send me an email & I'll send you my phone number.  I'll explain how to use a leak down tester and you can at least eliminate some of the components that are accessible without getting under the coach.  Most of the leaks that I have found in six years of ownership have been in a basement compartment or inside the coach.

Good Luck.............................

[77newell]

Sayed: when you ran this latest test did you leave the leveling system in an "on" setting that continued to actively attempt to keep the coach level? If so, you could have a leak on the left side air bag system (not necessarily the air bags themselves) that the leveling system attempts to rectify until it depletes the "supply" air.

A test for this would be to repeat the test you just did with the only change being to shut off the leveling system after bringing up the pressures and leveling the coach. Watch the rate of drop in the "supply" tank gauge. If my suspicions are confirmed, the left side will drop sooner than during the last test and the "supply" tank will leak down noticeably slower. If this turns out to be the case, the leak will be downstream from the rear six-pack including the fitting on the end of the six-pack.

If in this test the left side drops and the "supply" pressure drops as before then you know you have at least two leaks to find. Let us hope that is not the case as it makes life a bit more difficult and I like "easy".