[Richard]

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/1200/=17xxx9x Bearing 1638 3/4 ID 2.0 OD

Keep in mind this is not what will come out of the column. You will remove a much smaller bearing from the plastic sleeve. It just so happens the gorilla bearing will fit into a 2 inch bore in the sleeve.

If you want the original bearing then make sure you get one for a 3/4 shaft, GM also made a 1 inch shaft.

[Richard]

I am happy to report that we are 4000 miles into the summer tour, and most of it has been one handed relaxed driving. The play in the steering is gone, and I can precisely control where the coach is in the lane. Construction zones are no longer terror zones.

The amount of slop I felt at the bottom of the column was slight, but replacing the lower bearing and the u joints resulted in a taming of the beast.

I'm not trying to be funny, but I now feel that the steering wheel actually has something to do with which way the coach goes.

[Land Yacht]

Great news! Glad you are enjoying your long trip...

this same solution does not apply to the smart wheel does it?

[medcrest]

Happen to recall the part number of the U-joint? I've got about an inch of slop. If I'm going to do this, I'm going to get as much done as possible without actually dropping the steering gear box--too old and too weak any more.

[House Divided]

Paul - too old and too weak were my thoughts exactly. My steering box seemed fine so I left it. I tightened everything i could reach and rebuilt my steering column, including the lower bearing Richard described.

I didnt find anything major, but a little snug here, a tweak there to correct 20 years of use yielded nice gains for me. Hopefully yours will be the same.

[medcrest]

Paul - too old and too weak were my thoughts exactly. My steering box seemed fine so I left it. I tightened everything i could reach and rebuilt my steering column, including the lower bearing Richard described.

I didnt find anything major, but a little snug here, a tweak there to correct 20 years of use yielded nice gains for me. Hopefully yours will be the same.

Bought #500 with 47,000 miles on the clock, so I think wear is unlikely.  More apt to be under torqued at installation.  Previous owner took her to the mother ship in Miami with this complaint, but they couldn't find anything wrong.  Don't know how deep they delved.  I'll try tightening everything up from the lowest I can reach to the steering wheel.  Those construction zones scare me witless.  I have enough problem on straight and flat with a rig that is almost one full lane wide.

[Richard]

Paul

It’s a standard u joint. It is likely either a 3/4 or 1 inch. Take the cover off the lower steering column and measure the diameter of the round bearing. I hestitate to tell you which cause no two Newell’s are alike. There is nothing special about this ujoint

[jdkskyking]

I am posting this so it will be easy to find for someone in a future search. 

To make a very long journey short, I have been chasing excessive play or slop in the center of the steering for the last two years. 

To that end I adjusted the steering gear sector screw about ten gazillion times, using the TRW recommended method, using trial and error by adjusting at almost every rest stop, using the torque input method outlined in the TRW rebuild manual, and also using a method I made up requiring a dial indicator. I could definitely get it tight, but the play at the center was still there. 

So I went on the proverbial witch hunt. I rebuilt the box, but that really wasn't the problem. 

I found three things. 

One, and most likely the worst offender, was that the pinch bolt which clamps the steering column to the intermediate steering shaft was not tight enough. There was a wee bit of play at that connection. Doesn't seem like much, but that situation is really compounded if you study power transmission. You can have a rotating shaft with two u joints IF, and only IF, both ends are secure. Well one of the ends was not completely secure so that allows a lot more slop than you would imagine. It's easy to access, pull the leather cover off the steering column and it's right at the floor level. 

Two, I replaced the universal joints in the intermediate steering shaft. I could feel the slightest lash, and what the heck I had it on the bench while rebuilding the steering box. I looked carefully at the old u joints and the joint races were slightly brinnelled, meaning they were indented. It happens. 

Three, and this one is important. For two years I have been looking at the TRW manuals for the steering gear. They all reference a zerk fitting on the output shaft for greasing the output bearing. I NEVER found it, and I looked many times. When I got the box on the bench, it was there plain as day. And, the bearing was DRY. That's not good because it could have been binding the output shaft slightly. Probably wouldn't matter when you steered cause the hydraulics were over power any stiction, but letting the wheels self center could have been impacted if this bearing were tight. So where is this beast. If you are lying on your back looking up at the box. It will be on the side of the box facing the rear of the coach. There is only about two inches of clearance to get your hand up there. It will be at the same level as the output shaft of course. It may have a rubber cover on it so it may not feel like a zerk. There is no way that anyone would ever see this fitting and know to grease it. It is going to take a short right angle fitting on the gun to grease it. If I had any brains I would have installed a remote fitting while I had the box out.. 

After doing this work and taking a long test drive. I notice two things. One, the dead space in the middle is virtually gone. Two, the steering seems to self center much better without me having to consciously undo the steering input I just made. Or maybe I just know it has to be better after all the work I did 

This topic is exactly what I’m experiencing in #639. I had my son in law sit in the coach and move steering wheel. I can see the movement (play) in the tie rod ends which also have torn boots. We discussed that topic in another text or email. I’m going to take a look at the rest of the system as you’ve described. On my Winnebago TRW Steering box I adjusted the lash (1/4 turn) which made a huge difference.

[Richard]

Careful

Getting the gearbox too tight results in evil handling. There is a procedure for adjusting it on the coach. Ill send
You a copy when we get home to Florida

[pairodice]

Thanks for the write up and all the work you put in earlier Richard. We are rebuilding the steering box next week and will check the bearings and the U-joint while doing it. I’ll make sure that elusive grease zerk is greased well also!