[pestes]

Well, strange. Extended the slide back out and this was just a piece of loose plastic that I was able to pull out via the slot for the ram. Not sure what it was, but it doesn't seem like it belonged there.

New question though: Do I have to cut out a section of the existing track in order to accommodate the splice plate? Russ' pictures show a section of the track missing but it's not described in the walk through to actually cut that out.

[Nebster]

This won't help with your slide seal, but if anyone needs to tape up an exterior seam or gap for temporary water protection, I like stucco poly tape much better. It's very good at sealing, but it won't leave any residue when you remove it. (It's also more expensive, but worth the shekels.)

[Richard]

Paul, that piece of plastic may have been mounted to the outboard end of the cylinder assembly. It's purpose is to prevent the slide seal from overinflating into the cylinder channel.

[pestes]

Thanks Richard.

I was able to pull it out by hand after extending the slide again. If that indeed was its purpose then it's not needed anymore now anyways being that the splice area effectively performs the same function.

Got everything done the other day but waited 72 hours for the sealant to cure, just to be safe. Reinflated it last night and all looks good.

The only oddity is with the seams that occur in the seal in the corners. The areas where Newell put little strips of hot glue (or what looks like hot glue) that line up with them. One of those slits has moved a bit and no longer lines up. Just need to relocate that and I think all will be well.

[encantotom]

i had to totally redo the silicone strips because the creases were at different spots once i replaced the seal

tom

[ron skeen]

I used double row weatherstripping instead of silicon and it works great. I only used one row. I can't post picture but I bought it at home depot. You stick it wherever you need.

[encantotom]

russ, richard and paul,

when putting the new seal in, did you start at the top middle and work your way down each side and then to the bottom and once at the bottom, did the cutting and splicing then?

thanks

tom

[RussWhite]

Tom,

A cut and paste from my notes:

The original seal ( Seal Master ) was supplied in a continuous length, much like a complete inner tube would be. Air enters the seal through a hose on the back side of the seal. That hose goes down through the coach and exits at the top of the fender well. The point of exit is more toward the rear of the slide, than the front.

Having cleaned out the track where the original seal was held in place with clear silicone and made sure the caulked seal between the track and the coach wall is in tact, one is ready to install the new seal.

It will be necessary to make a termination point for pinching the seal. This is done by drilling a 9/16” hole in the center of the track and at the center of the bottom on the slide. Into this hole is placed a threaded insert which is held in place by a special device that expands its OD and locks it in place.

Since air will be supplied to the new seal through the same hole as was previously used, it will be necessary to start the seal at that point and work counter clockwise around, going up the right side, over the top, down the left side, and stopped near the center of the bottom where the cylinder pushes the room in and out. Allow and extra 3” beyond this point and cut the seal. Now start at the air entry point again and go left this time, stopped at the center and cutting the seal 3” beyond that point. Carefully cut the rib from the back of the seal sufficient to allow the seal to be folded upon itself. Now apply adhesive to the open ends of the seal, fold them back and place under the aluminum splicing plate. Tighten the splice plate down and allow time for the adhesive to cure.

Connect the hose to the existing fitting in the fender well and replace limit switch stops and mechanical stops after the room has been slightly extended.

Turn air on at the solenoid valve and check for leaks.

Russ

[encantotom]

thank you russ,

tom

[cknuth]

Gentlemen,
Inspired by your recently successful repair, I'm resuming my fix of a slowish (well, not that slow - compressor is running about a quarter of the time) leak in my bedroom slide. The air hiss is coming from the bottom of the slide where the seal diverges. No sound in the wheel well where the hose is visible. I'm hoping to do an exploratory procedure to find the exact problem. Further hoping that it will be a repairable hose joint or re-crimping rather than a full replacement.
- Will I be able to see all the involved components if the slide is over-retracted, or should I remove the sprayed-on foam in the wheel well as well?
- Should I get over this naive hope and assume the seal is shot, limiting the operation to one time?
Any advice appreciated - thanks!
Chuck