You are not logged in or registered. Please login or register to use the full functionality of this board...


Skinner valves in air 6 pack area
#21

When we checked this coach out last April near Sacramento all the functions worked as they should for both leveling and ride height. The problem is that once you shut down the engine the right side settles completely, and the supply side PSI goes to zero.


Clarke and Elaine Hockwald
1982 Newell Classic, 36', 6V92 TA
2001 VW Beetle Turbo
Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale Bad Boy
Haibike SDURO MTB
http://whatsnewell.blogspot.com
Reply
#22

A quick update on what Clarke (Whatsnewell) and Richard wrote. The supply psi does go to zero pretty quickly after the engine/compressor is turned off. The coach, however, does stay at ride height for several days now. It seems to have healed itself since we bought it.

Richard, I will make sure that Laureen (my electrical engineer and general mechanic) sees your advice about checking out and understanding the electrical issues before we proceed with replacing valves. We did a lot of circuit checking a couple of days ago - i think we had a matrix of about 100 combinations of switches, valves and circuits she was checking out and wants to do more tomorrow. I think that was the gist of the last conversation we had before she went to bed. My brain is a little addled from too much college football watching today.

Glenn & Laureen Parker
Austin, Texas
1984 Newell 35'  (Coach #58? - not confirmed)
6v92 TA Detroit Diesel, MT654 Allison 5 speed trans
2005 Honda Element toad
2007 Honda S2000 fun car
Reply
#23

This thread has some helpful information in it, but caveat emptor, you have to sift through it.

http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?ti...+schematic

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Reply
#24

To be clear, in my post on this thread I wrote about "leveling valves".  By leveling valves I'm talking about the 3 actual leveling valves, one in the front and 2 in the rear.  After correcting the wiring, my coach was doing the same thing that Clarke described.  (Dropping down on one side from ride height and supply air going to zero.) If your coach does start doing that again after making sure there are no major air leaks anywhere else, and as the right side is dropping down from ride height there is air exhausting from the right rear leveling valve, I would think you have a right leveling valve going out (and therefore only working properly sporadically) due to age.  Richard or others please correct me if I'm wrong.
Reply
#25

Dave, if the MAC valves are working correctly, the air bags will be isolated from the Height Control Valve when the ignition is off. So, in conventional thinking, a corner dropping is not usually connected with a leaking HCV.

However, supply air does go directly to the HCV, so a leaking HCV can result in a rapid loss of supply air.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Reply
#26

Makes sense Richard but now I have to think some more to figure out why it corrected my problem!  Thanks!
Reply
#27

If the MAC travel solenoid valve is leaking, then that would explain the corner drop and supply air loss.

It is a counterintuitive concept to imagine the HCV’s isolated from the air bags. But if they were not, then it would be impossible to use the air bags for leveling in a camping mode.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Reply
#28

To bring this thread up to date and closer to a conclusion, Laureen and I ended up replacing all 12 MAC valves in the front and rear six packs on our 1984 Classic Newell. The air bags now stay inflated at all corners for weeks at a time. All the down valves were leaking and the travel valves' housing cases had some issues as well (our MAC travel valves had little plastic adjustable wheels in the top of the housing, some of which blew out after we replaced the down valves).

However, the remaining problem is that my house air system leaks out completely within an hour or so of turning off the engine (and therefore our only compressor). The air bags stay inflated so we stay up at all corners. The brake system loses air slowly over the course of a week or so, slowly going from 120 down to a little above 60 psi. Both the brake system and the house system fill to 120 psi quickly after starting the engine.

It takes about 8 minutes for the house system to go from 120 down to 95 and then back up to 120 when the engine is running. The compressor seems to take only about 30 seconds to get from 95 back up to 120 when the governor lets it kick in to top off the system. So the house system spends about 7 1/2 minutes losing air from 120 psi down to 95 and then about 30 seconds to air up again to 120.

The ride height valves work properly when starting the engine and the up and down valves work properly to level the system with our dash console mounted toggle switches. The air bags stay inflated. So, my big remaining issue right now is why the house air system loses all air within an hour or so of the engine being turned off. I will explore the house air system "upstream" between the height control valves and the engine mounted air compressor to see if I find any leaks and may replace the governor also, although it seems to be working properly by keeping the psi in the 95-120 psi range when the engine is running.

Also, the Skinner valves (as I called them) seem to be a redundant system to the MAC down/exhaust valves. Laureen and I kept the Skinners plumbed in when we replaced all the MACs. (I wore a belt AND suspenders when I was a wee skinny fellow in elementary school.)

In other news, we have replaced 3 of our 4 electric heaters in the past few days and will complete the 4th trade out tomorrow. We are putting in the King PAW (pick a watt) 120 v heaters with the adjustable 250-1500 wattage as has been mentioned elsewhere on this site. We should also complete the installation of LED lights and strips throughout most of the coach in the next couple of days.

Finally, regarding the ignition switch problem, Laureen replaced the ignition switch and figured out the wiring (with help from Guy and others). She also managed to get the headlight bright/dimmer switch rod on the steering column back in place and functioning correctly. I don't plan on driving at night much but it is good to have that working (and a better understanding of how it works). Again, thanks to several Gurus for advice on the dimmer switch rod and how to fix it.

Glenn & Laureen Parker
Austin, Texas
1984 Newell 35'  (Coach #58? - not confirmed)
6v92 TA Detroit Diesel, MT654 Allison 5 speed trans
2005 Honda Element toad
2007 Honda S2000 fun car
Reply
#29

Look closely at your wet tank and it’s connections/drain. There is a valve between the wet and the brake tanks named the Pressure Protection Valve that gives priority to the brake tanks and also prevents air from back flowing out of them to the House/Supply system. This is good news because it cuts down on the places you have to look for leaks.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Reply
#30

To the original poster....or anyone who knows!

I have no ability to switch between low/high beams at the control stalk. If I slightly pull on it I can get the low beams to light up, but when I let go, they turn off. I was able, with Tom's help jump the ower in the front circut bay to have the low beams come on, but it may be just a mechanic issue with the switch itself. How do you get to the switch? And what did you do to fix the rod?

Anyone know the part number for the switch assembly from the teering column?

Be seeing you,

Rick Miller
#423
1996, 45'+, Non-slide, Series 60, ABS, 1.5 Bath, Reverse Floorplan


Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)