<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - General Repair]]>

<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - General Repair]]> https://newellgurus.com/ Thu, 04 Jun 2026 00:19:31 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Water pump replacement]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8958 Fri, 15 May 2026 11:50:16 +0000 Jack Houpe]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8958
First step is to drain the coolant, I used a plastic tote to catch the fluid then a electric fountain pump to send to a 55 gallon plastic drum, total amount of coolant was roughly 15 gallons. Before I put it back in a used a antifreeze test kit to check for acid level and coolant consistency which Gordon said was a must do. The hardest part of the whole job is replacing hoses, again I lost a pint of blood and looked like I'd been in a fight with lion. Painted all the lines and new water pump.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256770498259?
mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11400.m144671.l197929&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=c64fad7741c2422cb3caccfd47acdc2d&bu=43196671996&exe=0&ext=0&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20260427065755&segname=11400

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C34FMMS5?ref...asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753MZT7P?ref...asin_title

https://www.ebay.com/itm/156795590842

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First step is to drain the coolant, I used a plastic tote to catch the fluid then a electric fountain pump to send to a 55 gallon plastic drum, total amount of coolant was roughly 15 gallons. Before I put it back in a used a antifreeze test kit to check for acid level and coolant consistency which Gordon said was a must do. The hardest part of the whole job is replacing hoses, again I lost a pint of blood and looked like I'd been in a fight with lion. Painted all the lines and new water pump.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256770498259?
mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11400.m144671.l197929&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=c64fad7741c2422cb3caccfd47acdc2d&bu=43196671996&exe=0&ext=0&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20260427065755&segname=11400

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C34FMMS5?ref...asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753MZT7P?ref...asin_title

https://www.ebay.com/itm/156795590842

wp1.jpg Size: 341.14 KB Downloads: 76

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]]> <![CDATA[Entry door is “sticking”?]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8949 Thu, 07 May 2026 03:21:29 +0000 LaurenWeliver]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8949
Also, what lube should be used for this?]]>
Also, what lube should be used for this?]]> <![CDATA[1988 Classic Differential Failure]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8890 Sat, 14 Mar 2026 00:49:04 +0000 Show 488]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8890
This is where the story gets better. We found a repair Shop willing to work on the Newell in Anderson (Big Rig Repair. LLC) who were about to close but recommended a Towing Company to bring us into town (Lawrence Towing) Who did an excellent job with Zero Damage to the Coach (including removing the Axles prior to Towing, to prevent additional damage from occurring) They instructed the Tow Driver where they wanted the Coach parked, as they were closed when we arrived.

The next day a quick assessment was made to confirm my suspicions’, and a new Differential was ordered with next day by noon delivery (at no additional cost). They insisted we could overnight in the Couch, so we did, only Taking the Jeep out to explore the local area. The next day (Weds) The coach Rear Axle housing was disassembled, Cleaned & Inspected. The actually amount of Destruction inside was unreal. When the New Replacement Differential arrived as promised we were reassembled (including New Spicer 1710 Series “Red Box” U-Joints as one of ours had a broken Grease Nipple, 5 Gals of Synthetic Gear Oil, New Axles End gaskets, Shop Supplies, All for a very fair price! We were quite pleased with both the Professionalism & Pricing! As the repairs were completed at 6:30 pm we choose to stay the night and got a fresh start this morning headed home. We’ve just pulled for the night in southern Missouri and will be home in the am. I don’t often share much of our Travels but I do read all of your posts, and thought this time I had something truly use full to all to add.

Again just wanted to share this experience with everyone and give my highest recommendation to both of these Fine Organizations

Duanne

1988 Newell Classis

“Show 488”

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This is where the story gets better. We found a repair Shop willing to work on the Newell in Anderson (Big Rig Repair. LLC) who were about to close but recommended a Towing Company to bring us into town (Lawrence Towing) Who did an excellent job with Zero Damage to the Coach (including removing the Axles prior to Towing, to prevent additional damage from occurring) They instructed the Tow Driver where they wanted the Coach parked, as they were closed when we arrived.

The next day a quick assessment was made to confirm my suspicions’, and a new Differential was ordered with next day by noon delivery (at no additional cost). They insisted we could overnight in the Couch, so we did, only Taking the Jeep out to explore the local area. The next day (Weds) The coach Rear Axle housing was disassembled, Cleaned & Inspected. The actually amount of Destruction inside was unreal. When the New Replacement Differential arrived as promised we were reassembled (including New Spicer 1710 Series “Red Box” U-Joints as one of ours had a broken Grease Nipple, 5 Gals of Synthetic Gear Oil, New Axles End gaskets, Shop Supplies, All for a very fair price! We were quite pleased with both the Professionalism & Pricing! As the repairs were completed at 6:30 pm we choose to stay the night and got a fresh start this morning headed home. We’ve just pulled for the night in southern Missouri and will be home in the am. I don’t often share much of our Travels but I do read all of your posts, and thought this time I had something truly use full to all to add.

Again just wanted to share this experience with everyone and give my highest recommendation to both of these Fine Organizations

Duanne

1988 Newell Classis

“Show 488”

IMG_0322.jpeg Size: 3.18 MB Downloads: 80

IMG_0349.jpeg Size: 2.85 MB Downloads: 95

IMG_0350.jpeg Size: 3.47 MB Downloads: 93

IMG_0353.jpeg Size: 2.07 MB Downloads: 89

]]> <![CDATA[A whole Newell world.]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8697 Wed, 24 Sep 2025 16:43:18 +0000 1971newell30footer]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8697
Newly acquired 1971 gas pusher

391FT, Allison transmission

Anyone know where the VIN plate is located?

Any idea if a wiring schematics exist?

It had an engine bay fire so it is a big work in progress.

I have been replacing parts and rewiring as I go.

Swapped starter, new carb, electric fuel pump, new coil and points, new plugs. dual Flowmaster exhaust

My main concern (and lack of understanding)

There is an air brake controller that was connected to the inlet of the air compressor. It's wiring is burnt up. Do I need that component? Or will just a filter suffice? If so does anyone have a photo of the wiring ?

Any advice?

Tips?

I have the transmission shifting on a short rod coming through the floor in back as the cam system is seized currently.

Runs and drives on flat ground in storage yard. I haven't had the gall to take it for a rip yet.

I'm going to want to do the brakes soon so I am wondering about axel ID (hx-70?)and associated parts suppliers?

What should i replace/inspect?

Any modifications recommemded?

Thank you for your consideration.

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Newly acquired 1971 gas pusher

391FT, Allison transmission

Anyone know where the VIN plate is located?

Any idea if a wiring schematics exist?

It had an engine bay fire so it is a big work in progress.

I have been replacing parts and rewiring as I go.

Swapped starter, new carb, electric fuel pump, new coil and points, new plugs. dual Flowmaster exhaust

My main concern (and lack of understanding)

There is an air brake controller that was connected to the inlet of the air compressor. It's wiring is burnt up. Do I need that component? Or will just a filter suffice? If so does anyone have a photo of the wiring ?

Any advice?

Tips?

I have the transmission shifting on a short rod coming through the floor in back as the cam system is seized currently.

Runs and drives on flat ground in storage yard. I haven't had the gall to take it for a rip yet.

I'm going to want to do the brakes soon so I am wondering about axel ID (hx-70?)and associated parts suppliers?

What should i replace/inspect?

Any modifications recommemded?

Thank you for your consideration.

20250830_151654~2.jpg Size: 4.75 MB Downloads: 82

20250912_092602~2.jpg Size: 5.78 MB Downloads: 36

20250831_142048~2.jpg Size: 3.39 MB Downloads: 37

20250829_133914~2.jpg Size: 2.05 MB Downloads: 31

]]> <![CDATA[Air leveling system]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8675 Tue, 16 Sep 2025 00:29:39 +0000 Binford]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8675 I am going to replace the solenoid valves on the manual air leveling system. I have purchased the valves, 12 total. There are six in the front and six in the back. I’m wanting to know how they work before I remove them. What l can tell, two are exhaust and two let air in. The other two I’m not sure. There are two of a different style not sure about them also. Does anyone have any information about this? Wiring Schematic or how they are piped in?]]> I am going to replace the solenoid valves on the manual air leveling system. I have purchased the valves, 12 total. There are six in the front and six in the back. I’m wanting to know how they work before I remove them. What l can tell, two are exhaust and two let air in. The other two I’m not sure. There are two of a different style not sure about them also. Does anyone have any information about this? Wiring Schematic or how they are piped in?]]> <![CDATA[Antifreeze]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8653 Wed, 27 Aug 2025 14:31:45 +0000 Jrahn56]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8653
Thank you,

Jeff]]>
Thank you,

Jeff]]> <![CDATA[Radiator removal Coach 375]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8636 Mon, 11 Aug 2025 00:27:52 +0000 Jrahn56]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8636
Jeff Rahn]]>
Jeff Rahn]]> <![CDATA[Lost Radiator Shroud 1984 8V92TA]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8379 Mon, 03 Mar 2025 22:04:29 +0000 Guy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8379 Had my radiator rebuilt after several years of rodding and cleaning the original radiator. Shop did a great job. Fast forward to now. Went to install the radiator. Never noticed that the shroud was not on it, although I have photos of it being transported to the radiator shop with the shroud . Radiator shop can't find the shroud. My fault for not checking the details at the time . My problem is , dimensions to source, or build a new shroud. Looking at the radiator ,the shroud was approximately 33 1/2 inches tall. and 37 1/4 wide, with four 1/4 x 3 bolts on the flange on each side. I don't know the depth. The fan blade is 32 inches across, so the shroud must have been very minimal. can any of you GURU'S help ? If anyone can measure classic 8V92 shroud, it would be much appreciated. Hopefully two Newells might be the same. The only other course of action I have would be to bolt the radiator in , and make the measurements .]]> Had my radiator rebuilt after several years of rodding and cleaning the original radiator. Shop did a great job. Fast forward to now. Went to install the radiator. Never noticed that the shroud was not on it, although I have photos of it being transported to the radiator shop with the shroud . Radiator shop can't find the shroud. My fault for not checking the details at the time . My problem is , dimensions to source, or build a new shroud. Looking at the radiator ,the shroud was approximately 33 1/2 inches tall. and 37 1/4 wide, with four 1/4 x 3 bolts on the flange on each side. I don't know the depth. The fan blade is 32 inches across, so the shroud must have been very minimal. can any of you GURU'S help ? If anyone can measure classic 8V92 shroud, it would be much appreciated. Hopefully two Newells might be the same. The only other course of action I have would be to bolt the radiator in , and make the measurements .]]> <![CDATA[Classic 1984 Newell basement door hardware]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8378 Sun, 02 Mar 2025 23:23:45 +0000 Guy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8378
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]]> <![CDATA[Atlas radiator no answer]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8284 Mon, 09 Dec 2024 22:00:48 +0000 drivfour@gmail.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8284 <![CDATA[Generator cylinder slide removal]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8071 Wed, 17 Jul 2024 15:14:00 +0000 Gpgm71]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8071 <![CDATA[2 cycle oil question]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7943 Mon, 08 Apr 2024 01:14:30 +0000 neverbored]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7943 Thanks in advance,
Mark]]> Thanks in advance,
Mark]]> <![CDATA[Pink unicorns with rainbow crowns]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7897 Mon, 18 Mar 2024 20:05:17 +0000 Richard]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7897
I bought a new toad. Maverick Hybrid. Took my time wiring up the lights. Diodes, shrink wrap, careful routing with a Newell quantity of zip ties, tinned ends, quality plugs, and such.

Plugged it all in, and it’s wonky. Real wonky. One blinker doesn’t work, and the brake/running lights are asymmetrical.

Ok, so it’s got to be me, some boneheaded miswire, or bad connection. So I start hours of troubleshooting checking the feed from the coach, making sure the colors match at the plugs, and feeding a 12V signal into the plug on the car. Still the same wonky behavior. I used a continuous ribbon cable from the front plug to the rear. No splices. I have voltage at the feed end but nothing at the exit for the turn signal. Ok, bad crimps or something. Cut off the ends and do it over. Same result. Voltage at one end , nada at the other. The wire had a discontinuity in it. Found by feeding in voltage and probing along the length of the wire. Voltage, voltage, voltage, NO voltage. Stripped the insulation to find a clean cut in the wiring. The insulation was intact. Go figure. OK, no problem, heat shrink butt splice, and the turn signal works.

But wait there is more, what about the asymmetrical tail lights. Hmmmmmmm, triple check the color codes obtained from the interweb by a guy who has written a tome on the Maverick forums about how to wire the truck. It all looks to match what he posted. Swapped lights from side to side and the pattern stayed with the side not the light. Ok, that’s a clue, the wiring tapped into is wrong. Finally found an official Ford schematic. ARRRRGH, this guys wiring colors are WRONG. To give him the benefit of the doubt, let’s say, that Ford changed it from one model year to the next.

Finally, working lights, I think I’ll go stream a couple episodes of My Pink Pony.]]>
I bought a new toad. Maverick Hybrid. Took my time wiring up the lights. Diodes, shrink wrap, careful routing with a Newell quantity of zip ties, tinned ends, quality plugs, and such.

Plugged it all in, and it’s wonky. Real wonky. One blinker doesn’t work, and the brake/running lights are asymmetrical.

Ok, so it’s got to be me, some boneheaded miswire, or bad connection. So I start hours of troubleshooting checking the feed from the coach, making sure the colors match at the plugs, and feeding a 12V signal into the plug on the car. Still the same wonky behavior. I used a continuous ribbon cable from the front plug to the rear. No splices. I have voltage at the feed end but nothing at the exit for the turn signal. Ok, bad crimps or something. Cut off the ends and do it over. Same result. Voltage at one end , nada at the other. The wire had a discontinuity in it. Found by feeding in voltage and probing along the length of the wire. Voltage, voltage, voltage, NO voltage. Stripped the insulation to find a clean cut in the wiring. The insulation was intact. Go figure. OK, no problem, heat shrink butt splice, and the turn signal works.

But wait there is more, what about the asymmetrical tail lights. Hmmmmmmm, triple check the color codes obtained from the interweb by a guy who has written a tome on the Maverick forums about how to wire the truck. It all looks to match what he posted. Swapped lights from side to side and the pattern stayed with the side not the light. Ok, that’s a clue, the wiring tapped into is wrong. Finally found an official Ford schematic. ARRRRGH, this guys wiring colors are WRONG. To give him the benefit of the doubt, let’s say, that Ford changed it from one model year to the next.

Finally, working lights, I think I’ll go stream a couple episodes of My Pink Pony.]]> <![CDATA[Generator exhaust relocation]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7895 Mon, 18 Mar 2024 03:11:38 +0000 BusNit]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7895

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]]> <![CDATA[Rear Hatch Latch assembly]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7864 Mon, 04 Mar 2024 17:35:21 +0000 DAN CASTOR]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7864 Anyone have a source for replacement?
Newell parts says they no longer have any and don't know where to find.

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]]> Anyone have a source for replacement?
Newell parts says they no longer have any and don't know where to find.

bus latch a.jpg Size: 82.57 KB Downloads: 59

bus latch b.jpg Size: 101.84 KB Downloads: 64

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