<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Electrical]]>

<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Electrical]]> https://newellgurus.com/ Wed, 03 Jun 2026 22:52:04 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Lost lights, but fuses are working]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8951 Thu, 07 May 2026 03:31:43 +0000 LaurenWeliver]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8951 So I plugged in a 12V battery into the old cigarette style port under our (2008) and it shut the whole system down.

After a system restart, the salon and d/s slide lights sections would not come on although the the switch illuminated on. I went and checked the fuses and they were okay. I pressed the manual override switch on the fuses and they do work.

So the panel switch illuminates on, the fuses are good, but they
don’t turn on. The fuse override does provide power to lights so they do still work.

Is there some sort of relay that was blown when I plugged in that battery charger? Any insight would greatly be appreciated.]]> So I plugged in a 12V battery into the old cigarette style port under our (2008) and it shut the whole system down.

After a system restart, the salon and d/s slide lights sections would not come on although the the switch illuminated on. I went and checked the fuses and they were okay. I pressed the manual override switch on the fuses and they do work.

So the panel switch illuminates on, the fuses are good, but they
don’t turn on. The fuse override does provide power to lights so they do still work.

Is there some sort of relay that was blown when I plugged in that battery charger? Any insight would greatly be appreciated.]]> <![CDATA[Lost lights, but fuses are working]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8950 Thu, 07 May 2026 03:30:43 +0000 LaurenWeliver]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8950 So I plugged in a 12V battery into the old cigarette style port under our (2008) and it shut the whole system down.

After a system restart, the salon and d/s slide lights sections would not come on although the the switch illuminated on. I went and checked the fuses and they were okay. I pressed the manual override switch on the fuses and they do work.

So the panel switch illuminates on, the fuses are good, but they don’t turn on. The fuse override does provide power to lights so they do still work.

Is there some sort of relay that was blown when I plugged in that battery charger? Any insight would greatly be appreciated.]]> So I plugged in a 12V battery into the old cigarette style port under our (2008) and it shut the whole system down.

After a system restart, the salon and d/s slide lights sections would not come on although the the switch illuminated on. I went and checked the fuses and they were okay. I pressed the manual override switch on the fuses and they do work.

So the panel switch illuminates on, the fuses are good, but they don’t turn on. The fuse override does provide power to lights so they do still work.

Is there some sort of relay that was blown when I plugged in that battery charger? Any insight would greatly be appreciated.]]> <![CDATA[Battery Bay Rehab]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8947 Tue, 05 May 2026 01:32:00 +0000 Jeff@ginosgarageusa.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8947
Heavy rust was removed with wire wheel on my angle grinder. Sanded the entire compartment with electric DA sander to give everything a key for new paint. Vacuum to clean it up and wiped down everything really good with acetone.
Put on a coat of Defender rust converter on all the rusty spots, you can buy Corroseal at the local big box store and it’s pretty much the same as the Defender. we had to buy Defender for a project at work and you had to order minimum of 4 gallons so we had lots left over.
After the defender I coated everything with Rustoleum Professional paint in equipment grey.

Battery tray was removed, cleaned with wire wheel. Same process as the bay, Defender on the rust and then painted with Rustoleum Engine paint silver. Left over from painting my Detroit 6v.

Here are the photos:

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IMG_9747.jpeg Size: 2.04 MB Downloads: 34

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IMG_9758.jpeg Size: 2.88 MB Downloads: 37

]]>
Heavy rust was removed with wire wheel on my angle grinder. Sanded the entire compartment with electric DA sander to give everything a key for new paint. Vacuum to clean it up and wiped down everything really good with acetone.
Put on a coat of Defender rust converter on all the rusty spots, you can buy Corroseal at the local big box store and it’s pretty much the same as the Defender. we had to buy Defender for a project at work and you had to order minimum of 4 gallons so we had lots left over.
After the defender I coated everything with Rustoleum Professional paint in equipment grey.

Battery tray was removed, cleaned with wire wheel. Same process as the bay, Defender on the rust and then painted with Rustoleum Engine paint silver. Left over from painting my Detroit 6v.

Here are the photos:

IMG_9739.jpeg Size: 2.33 MB Downloads: 148

IMG_9740.jpeg Size: 5.13 MB Downloads: 136

IMG_9742.jpeg Size: 2.08 MB Downloads: 131

IMG_9743.jpeg Size: 3.44 MB Downloads: 128

IMG_9744.jpeg Size: 2.63 MB Downloads: 124

IMG_9747.jpeg Size: 2.04 MB Downloads: 34

IMG_9757.jpeg Size: 3.14 MB Downloads: 35

IMG_9758.jpeg Size: 2.88 MB Downloads: 37

]]> <![CDATA[Idle voltage for 1995 Newell]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8925 Tue, 21 Apr 2026 18:44:07 +0000 Mad Mark]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8925
I am having an alternator voltage fluctuation. On VMSpc I am showing between 12.8v and 13.1v at idle. When I am driving with the generator running, I am showing 14.1v to 14.6v. Generator off it 13.8-14.1.
I noticed the grounding wire seems a bit frayed where it connects to the alternator. I am going remove the air intake piping and test alternator voltage.
Any other suggestions? I apologize if this isn't the right category.
Thanks,
Mark]]>
I am having an alternator voltage fluctuation. On VMSpc I am showing between 12.8v and 13.1v at idle. When I am driving with the generator running, I am showing 14.1v to 14.6v. Generator off it 13.8-14.1.
I noticed the grounding wire seems a bit frayed where it connects to the alternator. I am going remove the air intake piping and test alternator voltage.
Any other suggestions? I apologize if this isn't the right category.
Thanks,
Mark]]> <![CDATA[heater switch behind passenger seat]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8879 Sat, 28 Feb 2026 15:05:15 +0000 rvguy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8879 <![CDATA[Starter wiring on 87 classic]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8878 Thu, 26 Feb 2026 16:00:32 +0000 David W]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8878

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I have coach #145 and am getting around to fixing the starter circuit. Here's what I have. Previous owner said it would never start from the front since he had it. He always started it from the rear. It had quite a few other things that needed addressed first, so I am now ready to dive into this. It has since quit starting from the rear all together. It will start on the starter so no problem there. I put up photos to show the rear. The red/ black wire that's disconnected from the terminal so far is the culprit. It goes to the solenoid, but has no continuity. My question is where does it go between terminal block and solenoid? That's where I'm losing power from rear start switch. I'm leaning towards the front start problem being in the neutral safety switch from some checking before it completely stopped.

Also what configuration does the rear switches need to be in for the front to work?

Thanks,
David Williams]]> <![CDATA[1st post, looking for info on monster battery fuse size.]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8875 Sat, 21 Feb 2026 19:53:50 +0000 TeamPunisher]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8875
I tried searching here and, in the manuals, and can't find the info I need.
I was tightening all the loose battery connections and the big fuse on the ground side crumbled in my hands.
Does anyone know the amperage rating on these? I will probably replace both and get a couple spares...

Next project will be the Primus system, lol! Wish me luck!

IMG_20260218_163957927_AE.jpg Size: 6.61 MB Downloads: 102

]]>
I tried searching here and, in the manuals, and can't find the info I need.
I was tightening all the loose battery connections and the big fuse on the ground side crumbled in my hands.
Does anyone know the amperage rating on these? I will probably replace both and get a couple spares...

Next project will be the Primus system, lol! Wish me luck!

IMG_20260218_163957927_AE.jpg Size: 6.61 MB Downloads: 102

]]> <![CDATA[Fuses for Outlets in Bay]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8865 Tue, 10 Feb 2026 20:40:37 +0000 LionStar]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8865 <![CDATA[Ceiling LED lights]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8856 Thu, 29 Jan 2026 11:09:18 +0000 pairodice]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8856 https://a.co/d/iaN76bc

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]]> https://a.co/d/iaN76bc

IMG_0437.jpeg Size: 2.56 MB Downloads: 20

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]]> <![CDATA[Ceiling LED lights]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8855 Thu, 29 Jan 2026 11:08:37 +0000 pairodice]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8855 https://a.co/d/iaN76bc

IMG_0437.jpeg Size: 2.56 MB Downloads: 31

IMG_0438.jpeg Size: 2.26 MB Downloads: 29

]]> https://a.co/d/iaN76bc

IMG_0437.jpeg Size: 2.56 MB Downloads: 31

IMG_0438.jpeg Size: 2.26 MB Downloads: 29

]]> <![CDATA[Silverleaf RV-C OmniScope Program]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8836 Tue, 13 Jan 2026 22:42:13 +0000 hypoxia]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8836 <![CDATA[Voltage regulator/ alternator issue 1986 8v92 #106]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8825 Mon, 05 Jan 2026 21:15:37 +0000 eth58@swbell.net]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8825 I left Austin tx and drove 5 hours on my way to Scottsdale Az and everything was running great.
Pulled over for the night in Sonora Tx. The next morning we were continuing on our journey for about 30 min on I-10 aprox 75 mph and noticed the dash amp meter was really jumping to 100 amps and back and forth to 0 amps . First thought was the gauge but then I saw the volt meter start jumping also from 12 to 16 volts and staying at 16 volt for a bit then jump back down . At this point I new something was serious . Rode another 5 miles for a safe place to pull over . Upon inspection saw or heard nothing odd.
I pulled one cable from the alternator circuit braker located in engine compartment taped it off and continued on the way for 12 hours with just power from house and engine battery power with no problem.
Sounds like the voltage regulator located on the alternator ? Was getting ready to pull the gear driven alt but thought I might ask for insight.
So seem like alt is working but putting out 2 much.
Should I look anywhere else beside regulator?
Pull just Regulator on Alt or pull Alt as a unit?
Can I test Diode trio while Alt is installed or Just assume it is regulator the way gauges are jumping and pegging maximum .
Any recommendations on source for parts service, I'm still in Scottsdale for a little longer.

Alt info below looks like original from1984 miles on coach under 100k 1986 dd8v92 40'

LEECE-NEVILLE division SHELEER-GLOBE corp
date8441 volt14 amp130
service parts#3725JC complete unit model A0013725JC

Regulator LEECE NEVILLE regulator 99500 14 volt
each House battery tested 13.08v
each Engine battery tested 12.89

Thanks in advance Jeff]]> I left Austin tx and drove 5 hours on my way to Scottsdale Az and everything was running great.
Pulled over for the night in Sonora Tx. The next morning we were continuing on our journey for about 30 min on I-10 aprox 75 mph and noticed the dash amp meter was really jumping to 100 amps and back and forth to 0 amps . First thought was the gauge but then I saw the volt meter start jumping also from 12 to 16 volts and staying at 16 volt for a bit then jump back down . At this point I new something was serious . Rode another 5 miles for a safe place to pull over . Upon inspection saw or heard nothing odd.
I pulled one cable from the alternator circuit braker located in engine compartment taped it off and continued on the way for 12 hours with just power from house and engine battery power with no problem.
Sounds like the voltage regulator located on the alternator ? Was getting ready to pull the gear driven alt but thought I might ask for insight.
So seem like alt is working but putting out 2 much.
Should I look anywhere else beside regulator?
Pull just Regulator on Alt or pull Alt as a unit?
Can I test Diode trio while Alt is installed or Just assume it is regulator the way gauges are jumping and pegging maximum .
Any recommendations on source for parts service, I'm still in Scottsdale for a little longer.

Alt info below looks like original from1984 miles on coach under 100k 1986 dd8v92 40'

LEECE-NEVILLE division SHELEER-GLOBE corp
date8441 volt14 amp130
service parts#3725JC complete unit model A0013725JC

Regulator LEECE NEVILLE regulator 99500 14 volt
each House battery tested 13.08v
each Engine battery tested 12.89

Thanks in advance Jeff]]> <![CDATA[No power to headlights]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8778 Mon, 08 Dec 2025 00:29:51 +0000 TerryW]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8778 I'm sure it's in here somewhere but I can't find it for the life of me.
I have a classic 1986 that just suddenly lost all its headlights (both high and low beam) the brights will come on but only if I hold the stalk, they will not latch on. If I check the kick panel (number three I think), there is power. Also there is power coming to and leaving the headlight switch but no joy at the headlight sockets.
So I'm guessing there is a relay somewhere right? Does anyone know where I find this relay? Does anyone know where the wires run? Do they run outside on the driver's side floor or the passenger side?
Thanks in advance.]]> I'm sure it's in here somewhere but I can't find it for the life of me.
I have a classic 1986 that just suddenly lost all its headlights (both high and low beam) the brights will come on but only if I hold the stalk, they will not latch on. If I check the kick panel (number three I think), there is power. Also there is power coming to and leaving the headlight switch but no joy at the headlight sockets.
So I'm guessing there is a relay somewhere right? Does anyone know where I find this relay? Does anyone know where the wires run? Do they run outside on the driver's side floor or the passenger side?
Thanks in advance.]]> <![CDATA[Panel Switches Strange Behavior]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8764 Sat, 22 Nov 2025 00:48:50 +0000 Superannuated Peregrinator]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8764 <![CDATA[Lithium Battery Considerations for #586]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8756 Mon, 17 Nov 2025 13:35:08 +0000 hbens]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8756 My house batteries are on their way out. Currently they are 6 AGM batteries. I want to go with lithium and have read all of the posts here I could find.
I have 2 Magnum 3012 inverter chargers. One is currently used only for the 2nd Subzero refrigerator. The other powers the 1st Subzero refrigerator, the 120v compressor, and everything else a single inverter usually powers in a coach. I use ME-RC remote controls for each inverter.
Here are some points I’ve read about and figured out by reading my manuals and these forum posts.
1. I’ll have to use custom settings because the ME-RC does not have a preconfigured Lithium battery choice. The ME-ARC does but I’m not going to upgrade to those controllers.
2. I don’t plan on adding solar.
3. I expect we will boondock more since we are snowbirds and spend more time in cooler climates. We don’t need to run the air conditioning all the time like we did in Florida.
4. I have the big oil cooled alternator. I’m interested in NOT creating issues with this because of the low charging resistance in Lithium batteries.
5. I have the big blue isolator in the rear electrical cabinet. Alternator in post, a post for house batteries and a post for engine batteries.
6. The smartest guy I know said he went through alternators when he would boondock and just drive away the next morning letting the engine alternator charge the batteries. When he changed his MO to running the generator as well, his alternator issues were reduced (or eliminated). I don’t recall if this was on their first Newell and has been overcome when/if his second had the big oil cooled alternator.
7. If I remove the house batteries from the isolator and install a DC-DC charger (engine to house direction, 30 or 40 AMP) will this be a viable option instead of running the generator?
8. Should I set up my system to only charge the batteries from the 2nd inverter/charger because it would be more straight forward to monitor and control? As I ask this it sounds easier to manage this way but splitting the charging duties might keep heat down in each inverter/charger and battery cables.
9. My generator starts from the house batteries.
10. I don’t set the merge switch when hooked up to shore power. With Lithium when this is needed for starting the engine I should leave it merged for 20 minutes or so before attempting an engine start.
11. I’ll have to reconfigure my automatic generator start for the Lithium profile. I may upgrade to the Magnum AGS for this. I haven’t determined the original AGS settings capabilities yet.
Anything else I need to consider?
What has worked for you guys?]]> My house batteries are on their way out. Currently they are 6 AGM batteries. I want to go with lithium and have read all of the posts here I could find.
I have 2 Magnum 3012 inverter chargers. One is currently used only for the 2nd Subzero refrigerator. The other powers the 1st Subzero refrigerator, the 120v compressor, and everything else a single inverter usually powers in a coach. I use ME-RC remote controls for each inverter.
Here are some points I’ve read about and figured out by reading my manuals and these forum posts.
1. I’ll have to use custom settings because the ME-RC does not have a preconfigured Lithium battery choice. The ME-ARC does but I’m not going to upgrade to those controllers.
2. I don’t plan on adding solar.
3. I expect we will boondock more since we are snowbirds and spend more time in cooler climates. We don’t need to run the air conditioning all the time like we did in Florida.
4. I have the big oil cooled alternator. I’m interested in NOT creating issues with this because of the low charging resistance in Lithium batteries.
5. I have the big blue isolator in the rear electrical cabinet. Alternator in post, a post for house batteries and a post for engine batteries.
6. The smartest guy I know said he went through alternators when he would boondock and just drive away the next morning letting the engine alternator charge the batteries. When he changed his MO to running the generator as well, his alternator issues were reduced (or eliminated). I don’t recall if this was on their first Newell and has been overcome when/if his second had the big oil cooled alternator.
7. If I remove the house batteries from the isolator and install a DC-DC charger (engine to house direction, 30 or 40 AMP) will this be a viable option instead of running the generator?
8. Should I set up my system to only charge the batteries from the 2nd inverter/charger because it would be more straight forward to monitor and control? As I ask this it sounds easier to manage this way but splitting the charging duties might keep heat down in each inverter/charger and battery cables.
9. My generator starts from the house batteries.
10. I don’t set the merge switch when hooked up to shore power. With Lithium when this is needed for starting the engine I should leave it merged for 20 minutes or so before attempting an engine start.
11. I’ll have to reconfigure my automatic generator start for the Lithium profile. I may upgrade to the Magnum AGS for this. I haven’t determined the original AGS settings capabilities yet.
Anything else I need to consider?
What has worked for you guys?]]>