<![CDATA[Newell Gurus

<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Towing ]]> https://newellgurus.com/ Wed, 03 Jun 2026 23:09:50 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Custom 3"-2" Riser by ACCURATE!! ?]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8948 Wed, 06 May 2026 19:23:57 +0000 CaptainGizmo]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8948
So, taking inspiration from another Newell buddy's, I drafted my own version and "Called Sol" at Accurate Trailer in Santa Clarita. I've seen their work down at MCC and knew I was fortunate to be within an hour drive.

This morning, we took the rig and toad to have it finalized. To say these guys did a perfect job wouldn't be enough...they NAILED IT and I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. BUT, the biggest delight is I've now got ONE single strong piece which also shortened the overall setup.

IMG_2727.jpeg Size: 3.79 MB Downloads: 95

IMG_2729.jpeg Size: 1.42 MB Downloads: 98

IMG_2728.jpeg Size: 1.33 MB Downloads: 89

Incidentally, one CRITICAL MEASUREMENT is to allow clearance for the engine hatch to open! Too high and too close...and you won't be a happy camper.

Hit me up if you'd like a PDF of my plans w/o dimensions to have you own built. Oh, and get this...they did this all for $300! That's about what it costs for a bunch of pieces on Amazon.

Here's their info:

Sol Raviv
Accurate Trailer Hitch & Welding
26570 Ruether Ave.
Santa Clarita, CA 91350
(661) 251-9234

IMG_2495.jpeg Size: 5.73 MB Downloads: 85

]]>
So, taking inspiration from another Newell buddy's, I drafted my own version and "Called Sol" at Accurate Trailer in Santa Clarita. I've seen their work down at MCC and knew I was fortunate to be within an hour drive.

This morning, we took the rig and toad to have it finalized. To say these guys did a perfect job wouldn't be enough...they NAILED IT and I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. BUT, the biggest delight is I've now got ONE single strong piece which also shortened the overall setup.

IMG_2727.jpeg Size: 3.79 MB Downloads: 95

IMG_2729.jpeg Size: 1.42 MB Downloads: 98

IMG_2728.jpeg Size: 1.33 MB Downloads: 89

IMG_2495.jpeg Size: 5.73 MB Downloads: 85

]]> <![CDATA[Coach 1490 no running lights in toad]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8829 Wed, 07 Jan 2026 13:59:52 +0000 Figs]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8829 <![CDATA[Toad Problems]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8684 Fri, 19 Sep 2025 22:18:04 +0000 Jeff@ginosgarageusa.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8684 So a couple weeks ago we were headed out to Tennessee to visit our property and for a wrenching rally with the Wanderlodge crew, right before we left our toad died as we were pulling up to our house. Its a 2016 Range Rover with the TDV6 diesel engine in it. This engine went on to become the Powerstroke engine in the F150. So as we were returning home the night before we were to leave, the car jerked and then died just before getting to the house. Coasted and got it partly in the driveway. I decided to pull it up some with my truck but then decided I wanted to get it under our carport so I could work on it when I got back home. I did not think about it but it was suggested to see if our golf car would pull it. So I hooked it up to the golf car and it pulled it right into the carport.
Fast forward to this weekend and I started tearing into the engine to see what occurred. I checked the engine codes and found that I have several codes for low fuel rail pressure. I was thinking the worst as this engine has the dreaded CP-4 fuel pump. I will also mention that I just changed the timing belt and the belt that drives the CP-4 pump recently since we just passed the 100k mile mark. I thought that the belt might have slipped or something.
First check was to pull the metering valve off the CP-4 to look for metal debris in the system, luckily the metering valve was clean as a whistle. No CP-4 failure, but I am not tempting fate. This is going to get a disaster prevention kit put on it before I run it again, or if it runs again.
Next check was to see if the CP-4 pump belt broke etc. After much work to get down to it, its on the back of the engine buried back by the firewall, I open up the case and the belt is intact and still under tension. Now I go ahead and put my ratchet on the crank and turn the engine over, the pump belt is not turning!! Well that's not good.
So now I go to the front of the engine to see what's going on. After removing a bunch of other stuff to get the front timing cover off, the new timing belt is snapped. Its strange, its snapped like someone almost cut it! What the heck is going on. I am thinking the worst at this point, as this is an interference engine. I am thinking valve debris scattered in the cylinders!!
So now I start digging into the injectors to get them out so I can put a bore scope down in the cylinder. Get all the injectors out and check the cylinders, no major debris. Some strange markings in a couple of them but nothing that looks like the valves have been destroyed. Keep looking.
As I am turning the crank, it stops, so I assume it may be hitting the valves, so I turn the driver side camshaft and all is well it turns some more. I turn the passenger side cam and it starts making some strange popping noise, no good! So I continue digging. Start removing all the stuff to get the cam cover off. BTW this engines cam covers are also the intake plenum. I pull the cam cover off the passenger side and there it is! There is a chain that runs between two camshafts on each head, the chain was broken and jammed. I am not sure what caused the chain to break but I am assuming the chain broke then that jammed and then broke the timing belt. I suppose it could have been the other way around and the belt broke, maybe the piston hit a valve stopping the cam and that snapped the chain? So now I am going to do a compression/leak down check of the cylinders to see if there is any damage to the pistons. If it passes that test then, I am going to re-assemble with new chains and new timing belt and hope for the best!

I will add some photos here from my phone for your enjoyment.

Piston, appears to have a small kiss on it. No debris inside. Mark seems to change with the light from the bore scope so hard to tell exactly what it was. The mark on the right side is not round like the imprint of the valve.

IMG_9169.jpeg Size: 52.8 KB Downloads: 182

More possible debris or something happening around the edge of this piston.

IMG_9179.jpeg Size: 68.62 KB Downloads: 188

Another shot of that kiss mark on the piston, here you can see how its more of a reflection on the side of the cylinder wall.

IMG_9184.jpeg Size: 50.93 KB Downloads: 186

Close up of broken chain.

IMG_9189.jpg Size: 202.8 KB Downloads: 186

Here is how the chain looked when I pulled the cam cover off, it was bunched up locking the cams from rotating.

IMG_9185.jpg Size: 204.45 KB Downloads: 178

The snapped timing belt.

IMG_9193.jpg Size: 193.02 KB Downloads: 17

The chain tensioner, its not damaged at all and did not seem that it contributed to any failure.

IMG_9190.jpg Size: 210.03 KB Downloads: 14

Hoping this weekend I will be checking the compression and seeing what my next step is. ]]> So a couple weeks ago we were headed out to Tennessee to visit our property and for a wrenching rally with the Wanderlodge crew, right before we left our toad died as we were pulling up to our house. Its a 2016 Range Rover with the TDV6 diesel engine in it. This engine went on to become the Powerstroke engine in the F150. So as we were returning home the night before we were to leave, the car jerked and then died just before getting to the house. Coasted and got it partly in the driveway. I decided to pull it up some with my truck but then decided I wanted to get it under our carport so I could work on it when I got back home. I did not think about it but it was suggested to see if our golf car would pull it. So I hooked it up to the golf car and it pulled it right into the carport.
Fast forward to this weekend and I started tearing into the engine to see what occurred. I checked the engine codes and found that I have several codes for low fuel rail pressure. I was thinking the worst as this engine has the dreaded CP-4 fuel pump. I will also mention that I just changed the timing belt and the belt that drives the CP-4 pump recently since we just passed the 100k mile mark. I thought that the belt might have slipped or something.
First check was to pull the metering valve off the CP-4 to look for metal debris in the system, luckily the metering valve was clean as a whistle. No CP-4 failure, but I am not tempting fate. This is going to get a disaster prevention kit put on it before I run it again, or if it runs again.
Next check was to see if the CP-4 pump belt broke etc. After much work to get down to it, its on the back of the engine buried back by the firewall, I open up the case and the belt is intact and still under tension. Now I go ahead and put my ratchet on the crank and turn the engine over, the pump belt is not turning!! Well that's not good.
So now I go to the front of the engine to see what's going on. After removing a bunch of other stuff to get the front timing cover off, the new timing belt is snapped. Its strange, its snapped like someone almost cut it! What the heck is going on. I am thinking the worst at this point, as this is an interference engine. I am thinking valve debris scattered in the cylinders!!
So now I start digging into the injectors to get them out so I can put a bore scope down in the cylinder. Get all the injectors out and check the cylinders, no major debris. Some strange markings in a couple of them but nothing that looks like the valves have been destroyed. Keep looking.
As I am turning the crank, it stops, so I assume it may be hitting the valves, so I turn the driver side camshaft and all is well it turns some more. I turn the passenger side cam and it starts making some strange popping noise, no good! So I continue digging. Start removing all the stuff to get the cam cover off. BTW this engines cam covers are also the intake plenum. I pull the cam cover off the passenger side and there it is! There is a chain that runs between two camshafts on each head, the chain was broken and jammed. I am not sure what caused the chain to break but I am assuming the chain broke then that jammed and then broke the timing belt. I suppose it could have been the other way around and the belt broke, maybe the piston hit a valve stopping the cam and that snapped the chain? So now I am going to do a compression/leak down check of the cylinders to see if there is any damage to the pistons. If it passes that test then, I am going to re-assemble with new chains and new timing belt and hope for the best!

I will add some photos here from my phone for your enjoyment.

Piston, appears to have a small kiss on it. No debris inside. Mark seems to change with the light from the bore scope so hard to tell exactly what it was. The mark on the right side is not round like the imprint of the valve.

IMG_9169.jpeg Size: 52.8 KB Downloads: 182

More possible debris or something happening around the edge of this piston.

IMG_9179.jpeg Size: 68.62 KB Downloads: 188

Another shot of that kiss mark on the piston, here you can see how its more of a reflection on the side of the cylinder wall.

IMG_9184.jpeg Size: 50.93 KB Downloads: 186

Close up of broken chain.

IMG_9189.jpg Size: 202.8 KB Downloads: 186

Here is how the chain looked when I pulled the cam cover off, it was bunched up locking the cams from rotating.

IMG_9185.jpg Size: 204.45 KB Downloads: 178

The snapped timing belt.

IMG_9193.jpg Size: 193.02 KB Downloads: 17

The chain tensioner, its not damaged at all and did not seem that it contributed to any failure.

IMG_9190.jpg Size: 210.03 KB Downloads: 14

Hoping this weekend I will be checking the compression and seeing what my next step is. ]]> <![CDATA[Toad turn signal not working. Brake light is fine]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8626 Wed, 30 Jul 2025 02:39:39 +0000 home@FredRobertson.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8626
Thanks,]]>
Thanks,]]> <![CDATA[Tow Light Converter]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8547 Mon, 30 Jun 2025 02:20:00 +0000 Frankie4Fingers]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8547
Any suggestions?]]>
Any suggestions?]]> <![CDATA[Charging the Toad - Dingy Battery]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8446 Fri, 16 May 2025 14:39:07 +0000 hypoxia]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8446
Inside the Load Center, connector "B" is the wiring that goes directly to the trailer plug. I extracted Connector B pin 5 which is a Black wire that goes to the trailer plug +12 VDC pin. I attached an inline fuse holder to the Bus Bar inside the Load Center, attached it to a red Mate-N-Lok connector. I plugged the extracted pin 5 into the other side of the Mate-N-Lok red connector (see photo) & voila!, I now have charging power to my toad battery. I put a diode on the truck battery to prevent back feeding the coach.

Universal Mate-N-Lok Connectors

Toad Power Wiring.jpg Size: 599.61 KB Downloads: 180

]]>
Inside the Load Center, connector "B" is the wiring that goes directly to the trailer plug. I extracted Connector B pin 5 which is a Black wire that goes to the trailer plug +12 VDC pin. I attached an inline fuse holder to the Bus Bar inside the Load Center, attached it to a red Mate-N-Lok connector. I plugged the extracted pin 5 into the other side of the Mate-N-Lok red connector (see photo) & voila!, I now have charging power to my toad battery. I put a diode on the truck battery to prevent back feeding the coach.

Universal Mate-N-Lok Connectors

Toad Power Wiring.jpg Size: 599.61 KB Downloads: 180

]]> <![CDATA[Trailer Spare Tire Storage]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8359 Sun, 09 Feb 2025 14:21:13 +0000 Jeff@ginosgarageusa.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8359
Cut the existing floor trusses out, they will be reused on the sides

IMG_8579.jpeg Size: 5.2 MB Downloads: 198

Welded the side trusses in, I also boxed in the c channel trusses that will support the side trusses.

IMG_8588.jpeg Size: 5.13 MB Downloads: 200

Welding in steel angle supports for the recessed compartment

IMG_8592.jpeg Size: 3.78 MB Downloads: 189

Lined the inside of the compartment with 1/2” pressure treated plywood and painted everything

IMG_8611.jpeg Size: 3.08 MB Downloads: 161

Cut the old floor in half and put hinges on it for doors

IMG_8612.jpeg Size: 2.77 MB Downloads: 144

Final product with tires in place

IMG_8615.jpeg Size: 361.33 KB Downloads: 37

Got the depth just right, I am going to put rubber on top of the wheel to protect it

IMG_8616.jpeg Size: 371.12 KB Downloads: 36

]]>
Cut the existing floor trusses out, they will be reused on the sides

IMG_8579.jpeg Size: 5.2 MB Downloads: 198

Welded the side trusses in, I also boxed in the c channel trusses that will support the side trusses.

IMG_8588.jpeg Size: 5.13 MB Downloads: 200

Welding in steel angle supports for the recessed compartment

IMG_8592.jpeg Size: 3.78 MB Downloads: 189

Lined the inside of the compartment with 1/2” pressure treated plywood and painted everything

IMG_8611.jpeg Size: 3.08 MB Downloads: 161

Cut the old floor in half and put hinges on it for doors

IMG_8612.jpeg Size: 2.77 MB Downloads: 144

Final product with tires in place

IMG_8615.jpeg Size: 361.33 KB Downloads: 37

Got the depth just right, I am going to put rubber on top of the wheel to protect it

IMG_8616.jpeg Size: 371.12 KB Downloads: 36

]]> <![CDATA[Air Force One and Toyota Land Cruiser Install]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7940 Sun, 07 Apr 2024 19:15:48 +0000 pairodice]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7940 Connections and installation of the Air Force One from Demco manufacturing

I bought the Demco Air Force One in March 2024 to install on our coach and run the brake system on our 2006 Lexus LX470 (Toyota Land Cruiser).
There is an air tank that mounts to the coach that will have to be plumbed into the coach air brake system and will activate the AF1 when the brake pedal is pushed down in the coach.
The AF1 consists of a main operating unit/module that is installed in the engine bay, an air cylinder (valve/plunger) that mounts to the physical brake in the vehicle, a hydro boost kit, quick connect kit for the toad and a breakaway system.
There is also an alert system for when the brakes are applied in the toad or in case of a breakaway.  This can be wired up to the driver area or used wirelessly (with the correct equipment) and plugged in to the cigarette lighter in the driver compartment (along with all the other stuff you have plugged into that socket!) - I suppose it can be hard-wired into the 12-volt electrical system also.

Connections and installation of the Air Force One from Demco manufacturing
I bought the Demco Air Force One in March 2024 to install on our coach and run the brake system on our 2006 Lexus LX470 (Toyota Land Cruiser).
There is an air tank that mounts to the coach that will have to be plumbed into the coach air brake system and will activate the AF1 when the brake pedal is pushed down in the coach.
The AF1 consists of a main operating unit/module that is installed in the engine bay, an air cylinder (valve/plunger) that mounts to the physical brake in the vehicle, a hydro boost kit, quick connect kit for the toad and a breakaway system.
There is also an alert system for when the brakes are applied in the toad or in case of a breakaway.  This can be wired up to the driver area or used wirelessly (with the correct equipment) and plugged in to the cigarette lighter in the driver compartment (along with all the other stuff you have plugged into that socket!) - I suppose it can be hard-wired into the 12-volt electrical system also.
I will (hopefully) show the installation of both the toad and coach here.
Questions for those who have installed the AF1 on the coach:
- Where did you install the air tank assembly
- I read through the threads I could find and will use what was suggested (I think it was to add a T in-line to the brake system on the coach but will research and update this) - I think that was the best/easiest suggestion…
I stole the following from one of Richard’s comments and will try this method to get air to the toad from the coach:
“For the service air line, come up to the air line that feeds the six pack. It usually has a gauge on it. Install a tee and pull your service air from there. …snipped… Of course test this out first. As a short cut for the sanity test. Use a couple of quick connects to temporarily plumb the AF1. Put the metered quick connect in the existing M&G coupling. Put the Air supply line quick connect into that air line connection in the lower left rear of the passenger engine bay. That will allow you to test the function.” Original Post.
More to come soon

image.jpg Size: 3.26 MB Downloads: 93

]]> Connections and installation of the Air Force One from Demco manufacturing

I bought the Demco Air Force One in March 2024 to install on our coach and run the brake system on our 2006 Lexus LX470 (Toyota Land Cruiser).
There is an air tank that mounts to the coach that will have to be plumbed into the coach air brake system and will activate the AF1 when the brake pedal is pushed down in the coach.
The AF1 consists of a main operating unit/module that is installed in the engine bay, an air cylinder (valve/plunger) that mounts to the physical brake in the vehicle, a hydro boost kit, quick connect kit for the toad and a breakaway system.
There is also an alert system for when the brakes are applied in the toad or in case of a breakaway.  This can be wired up to the driver area or used wirelessly (with the correct equipment) and plugged in to the cigarette lighter in the driver compartment (along with all the other stuff you have plugged into that socket!) - I suppose it can be hard-wired into the 12-volt electrical system also.

Connections and installation of the Air Force One from Demco manufacturing
I bought the Demco Air Force One in March 2024 to install on our coach and run the brake system on our 2006 Lexus LX470 (Toyota Land Cruiser).
There is an air tank that mounts to the coach that will have to be plumbed into the coach air brake system and will activate the AF1 when the brake pedal is pushed down in the coach.
The AF1 consists of a main operating unit/module that is installed in the engine bay, an air cylinder (valve/plunger) that mounts to the physical brake in the vehicle, a hydro boost kit, quick connect kit for the toad and a breakaway system.
There is also an alert system for when the brakes are applied in the toad or in case of a breakaway.  This can be wired up to the driver area or used wirelessly (with the correct equipment) and plugged in to the cigarette lighter in the driver compartment (along with all the other stuff you have plugged into that socket!) - I suppose it can be hard-wired into the 12-volt electrical system also.
I will (hopefully) show the installation of both the toad and coach here.
Questions for those who have installed the AF1 on the coach:
- Where did you install the air tank assembly
- I read through the threads I could find and will use what was suggested (I think it was to add a T in-line to the brake system on the coach but will research and update this) - I think that was the best/easiest suggestion…
I stole the following from one of Richard’s comments and will try this method to get air to the toad from the coach:
“For the service air line, come up to the air line that feeds the six pack. It usually has a gauge on it. Install a tee and pull your service air from there. …snipped… Of course test this out first. As a short cut for the sanity test. Use a couple of quick connects to temporarily plumb the AF1. Put the metered quick connect in the existing M&G coupling. Put the Air supply line quick connect into that air line connection in the lower left rear of the passenger engine bay. That will allow you to test the function.” Original Post.
More to come soon

image.jpg Size: 3.26 MB Downloads: 93

]]> <![CDATA[Air tap for TOAD Brakes]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7822 Mon, 12 Feb 2024 19:40:03 +0000 kkonsulting@msn.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7822 <![CDATA[P2000i Towing]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7810 Sun, 04 Feb 2024 02:30:15 +0000 kustomkarl]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7810

Big Woof Polaris lineup.jpg Size: 668.15 KB Downloads: 66

]]>

Big Woof Polaris lineup.jpg Size: 668.15 KB Downloads: 66

]]> <![CDATA[Grand Cherokee Death Wobble Fix]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7683 Tue, 07 Nov 2023 16:44:49 +0000 360]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7683
Second question is does anyone have a preferred battery charger that is smart for the of a better term as the steering system uses quite a bit of juice and will drain the battery in short order. Need something that will not overcharge the Jeep battery. I believe Jon used something from Victron, but it was I believe 24V because of the Prevost. Hopefully that a all made sense.]]>
Second question is does anyone have a preferred battery charger that is smart for the of a better term as the steering system uses quite a bit of juice and will drain the battery in short order. Need something that will not overcharge the Jeep battery. I believe Jon used something from Victron, but it was I believe 24V because of the Prevost. Hopefully that a all made sense.]]> <![CDATA[Tow Hitch Pictures for late 90's Newell's]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7666 Sat, 28 Oct 2023 14:49:01 +0000 Jeff@ginosgarageusa.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7666 My #490 has the lightweight hitch for just towing a toad, I would like to tow a trailer so I would like to get the hitch upgraded to a higher capacity. I will get a fabricator to make the hitch for me, I just need to know what the factory hitch looked like.
The other thought was if Newell also reinforced the frame at the rear of the coach for the heavier hitch, maybe some photos of the frame as it comes out around the engine may help me determine if they made any changes. Mine appears to be two different size C channels nested into one another. I will get some photos of mine and post here.
Appreciate any help on this.]]> My #490 has the lightweight hitch for just towing a toad, I would like to tow a trailer so I would like to get the hitch upgraded to a higher capacity. I will get a fabricator to make the hitch for me, I just need to know what the factory hitch looked like.
The other thought was if Newell also reinforced the frame at the rear of the coach for the heavier hitch, maybe some photos of the frame as it comes out around the engine may help me determine if they made any changes. Mine appears to be two different size C channels nested into one another. I will get some photos of mine and post here.
Appreciate any help on this.]]> <![CDATA[Air Force One - Coach Side Install]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7641 Fri, 13 Oct 2023 03:15:30 +0000 Tfrazier]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7641 Hello all, Apologies in advance for the “War and Peace” write up.
So, it took a little longer than expected to get to this point, but I am now ready to do the coach-side installation of the Air Force system.

The instructions are probably fine if you have a Freightliner, Spartan, Tiffin, Roadmaster or DynaMax chassis but I am having some issues translating any of those into my setup. And…. to be totally transparent, I am pretty intimidated when faced with having to splice into the air lines. I really don’t want to screw this up.

I have looked through all the AF1 threads on this site and I have watched just about every You Tube video online. Still not sure how to proceed. I was really hoping to end up with an install like Chester Stones (not having to crawl under the coach) but I don’t have the same set up. As the saying goes, no two Newells are the same. Also, FYI, my coach is a 38’, non-tag, so even more different than most.

The attached picture shows the setup under my coach. Actually, it’s two pictures that I tried to stitch together to give you a ground-up view of both the rear and forward-facing valves and all of the air lines at the same time. Also added labels.

I need to tie into two lines. For the coach air supply line, the instructions state that the line goes from the service relay valve to the braking air tank. It also says that it is a 5/8” OD line (could be ½” in some applications). As you can see in the picture, I do not have any 5/8” lines but I do have one ½”.

For the metered air connection, it says to locate the spring brake/quick-release valve and that the metered-air port is directly in the center of the top of the valve. In the picture (on the front valve side), there is an inset picture that shows a closeup of a 3/8” line (on top of the ½” line) that goes into the top of that valve.

How do I know which one is the spring brake valve and which one is the service relay valve? Each valve has an air hose running from the spring brake chamber and service brake chamber and that confuses me.

Long winded….I know. My previous set up was an M&G system that Richard helped me out a ton with. For this application I tapped into the spring brake chamber with a tee. As a point of reference, I placed a blue circle on the hose coming from the spring brake chamber that was tapped into.

Would appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks,

Brake view v.2.jpg Size: 638.7 KB Downloads: 100

]]> Hello all, Apologies in advance for the “War and Peace” write up.
So, it took a little longer than expected to get to this point, but I am now ready to do the coach-side installation of the Air Force system.

The instructions are probably fine if you have a Freightliner, Spartan, Tiffin, Roadmaster or DynaMax chassis but I am having some issues translating any of those into my setup. And…. to be totally transparent, I am pretty intimidated when faced with having to splice into the air lines. I really don’t want to screw this up.

I have looked through all the AF1 threads on this site and I have watched just about every You Tube video online. Still not sure how to proceed. I was really hoping to end up with an install like Chester Stones (not having to crawl under the coach) but I don’t have the same set up. As the saying goes, no two Newells are the same. Also, FYI, my coach is a 38’, non-tag, so even more different than most.

The attached picture shows the setup under my coach. Actually, it’s two pictures that I tried to stitch together to give you a ground-up view of both the rear and forward-facing valves and all of the air lines at the same time. Also added labels.

I need to tie into two lines. For the coach air supply line, the instructions state that the line goes from the service relay valve to the braking air tank. It also says that it is a 5/8” OD line (could be ½” in some applications). As you can see in the picture, I do not have any 5/8” lines but I do have one ½”.

For the metered air connection, it says to locate the spring brake/quick-release valve and that the metered-air port is directly in the center of the top of the valve. In the picture (on the front valve side), there is an inset picture that shows a closeup of a 3/8” line (on top of the ½” line) that goes into the top of that valve.

How do I know which one is the spring brake valve and which one is the service relay valve? Each valve has an air hose running from the spring brake chamber and service brake chamber and that confuses me.

Long winded….I know. My previous set up was an M&G system that Richard helped me out a ton with. For this application I tapped into the spring brake chamber with a tee. As a point of reference, I placed a blue circle on the hose coming from the spring brake chamber that was tapped into.

Would appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks,

Brake view v.2.jpg Size: 638.7 KB Downloads: 100

]]> <![CDATA[Looking for a tow bar]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7565 Sat, 09 Sep 2023 00:47:17 +0000 pinkston_chris]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7565 <![CDATA[New Toad - Airforce One]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7442 Sat, 01 Jul 2023 19:25:34 +0000 Tfrazier]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7442
Been awhile, but that is a good thing. Everything has been working great with the coach.

My toad died a few weeks (timing belt broke and smoked the engine). Crappy timing since we were on a trip to Hilton Head Island when it happened. Anyway, I am picking up my new Bronco next Saturday, which will now become my daily driver and mytoad.

Currently I have the M&G brake system installed on my coach and I love it. Richard was a huge help when I did the install a few years ago and provided much needed guidance. However, for the new toad, I am changing to the Air Force One Brake System.

Wondering if anyone has any words of wisdom, tips or special insights on the coach side install.

Will keep you posted on my progress.]]>
Been awhile, but that is a good thing. Everything has been working great with the coach.

My toad died a few weeks (timing belt broke and smoked the engine). Crappy timing since we were on a trip to Hilton Head Island when it happened. Anyway, I am picking up my new Bronco next Saturday, which will now become my daily driver and mytoad.

Currently I have the M&G brake system installed on my coach and I love it. Richard was a huge help when I did the install a few years ago and provided much needed guidance. However, for the new toad, I am changing to the Air Force One Brake System.

Wondering if anyone has any words of wisdom, tips or special insights on the coach side install.

Will keep you posted on my progress.]]>