<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Electrical]]> https://newellgurus.com/ Wed, 03 Jun 2026 23:00:56 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[victron blow out]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8620 Sun, 20 Jul 2025 11:38:32 +0000 Jack Houpe]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8620  works for a solar company and they are blowing out victron inventory so she contacted me with prices and quantity of items, our coach and bus have already been converted to solar so I don't have a need for any of this but thought I would pass it along for you all who may be interested. The $2300 is the price for everything except the 10kw quatro and the four 300am lithium batteries. $2000 for the quatro is a good deal. 

https://solampio-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/p...g?e=BZyUt6]]>  works for a solar company and they are blowing out victron inventory so she contacted me with prices and quantity of items, our coach and bus have already been converted to solar so I don't have a need for any of this but thought I would pass it along for you all who may be interested. The $2300 is the price for everything except the 10kw quatro and the four 300am lithium batteries. $2000 for the quatro is a good deal. 

https://solampio-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/p...g?e=BZyUt6]]> <![CDATA[PSA SS Battery Box]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8217 Mon, 21 Oct 2024 00:13:43 +0000 Tfrazier]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8217 After some recent issues with the starter batteries, I thought it might be a good idea to check on the house batteries. It had been a while. 
For #300, I have two house batteries, and they are held in a stainless-steel battery box located on the left side of the engine compartment. The box is covered by a plexiglass lid. I used to try to keep it cleaned off, but it was a losing battle, and I finally gave up (not a good idea).

When I removed the lid the first thought I had was that I never realized the battery box had a sloped bottom and the batteries set at an angle. Then I looked to the sides and saw a 3" gap between the top of the box and where it was supposed to be. The welds on the front edge and sides of the box had broken and the box was just hanging on by the backside welds. 

Not a difficult fix but very thankful I found it before we head out next week. I don't know how long it has been like this. It was probably a year ago when I was in that compartment. We rewelded all of the old welds and added a few more. For extra security, I added some stainless angle along the front and sides. Should be good to go now. I have the same set up for my starter batteries but No weld issues on that side. I will probably beef it up some as well.

I've added this to my check list. if you have this set up, it might be worth checking on it every now and then.
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]]> After some recent issues with the starter batteries, I thought it might be a good idea to check on the house batteries. It had been a while. 
For #300, I have two house batteries, and they are held in a stainless-steel battery box located on the left side of the engine compartment. The box is covered by a plexiglass lid. I used to try to keep it cleaned off, but it was a losing battle, and I finally gave up (not a good idea).

When I removed the lid the first thought I had was that I never realized the battery box had a sloped bottom and the batteries set at an angle. Then I looked to the sides and saw a 3" gap between the top of the box and where it was supposed to be. The welds on the front edge and sides of the box had broken and the box was just hanging on by the backside welds. 

Not a difficult fix but very thankful I found it before we head out next week. I don't know how long it has been like this. It was probably a year ago when I was in that compartment. We rewelded all of the old welds and added a few more. For extra security, I added some stainless angle along the front and sides. Should be good to go now. I have the same set up for my starter batteries but No weld issues on that side. I will probably beef it up some as well.

I've added this to my check list. if you have this set up, it might be worth checking on it every now and then.
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]]> <![CDATA[Passenger Seat Fuse]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7995 Fri, 17 May 2024 03:19:21 +0000 jbell18]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7995 Do you know where the passenger seat fuse is located on a 2012 p2000? I can't seem to track it down anywhere online?
Thank you]]> Do you know where the passenger seat fuse is located on a 2012 p2000? I can't seem to track it down anywhere online?
Thank you]]> <![CDATA[LED lights and dimmers]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7874 Sun, 10 Mar 2024 12:46:13 +0000 Jack Houpe]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7874
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CIF6WDI?psc...ct_details
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CIF6WDI?psc...ct_details
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]]> <![CDATA[Inverter relay switch ?]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7780 Fri, 12 Jan 2024 02:12:49 +0000 Guy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7780
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a long time. I would really like to understand it, and how it relates to the inverter. This switch is located behind a false wall in a closet directly above the incoming street power. (Hint #1)  

I am "assuming" that if no 120 volt street or generator power is available, this relay having no coil current, allows both 120 volt circuits to energize the two inverter circuits in the coach?
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]]>
.jpg Newell inverter switch 1.jpg Size: 591.02 KB  Downloads: 132
a long time. I would really like to understand it, and how it relates to the inverter. This switch is located behind a false wall in a closet directly above the incoming street power. (Hint #1)  

I am "assuming" that if no 120 volt street or generator power is available, this relay having no coil current, allows both 120 volt circuits to energize the two inverter circuits in the coach?
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]]> <![CDATA[Lithium and inverter upgrade coach 500]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7472 Mon, 17 Jul 2023 03:14:13 +0000 Gnawrocki1]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7472
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Well guru's, I figured it was time to post about the solar, LiFePO battery and inverter upgrade.  It has been a long time coming, but I am nearing completion.

I will start with a little description of the main components:
-2 Victron 5KVA quattro inverters
-Victron 150/70 solar controller for 48V batteries
-Victron 100/50 solar controller for charging 12V from 48V batteries
-Victron GX
-3 280Ah batteries made from 48 EVE cells
-Batrium watchmon core battery monitor/controller
-16 100W solar panels hooked up 4S4P
-48-24VDC transformer for Batrium control

It all started about 2 years ago prior to a trip with my bride to our 2nd burning man event.  The plan was to have it all done, but that was not in the cards with the rest of life happening, so I installed the solar the panels and controller to the failing 12V D house batteries.  This has lasted and we never ran out of power even though we were down to 4 batteries.

The location of the devices was a challenge as we did not want to take away any of our storage so here is where I ended up with placement:
-The inverters were located on the back wall of bay L4 (just in front of current inverter/generator-aquahot exhaust bay)
-Both solar controllers were located in the current inverter/generator-aquahot exhaust bay
-3 new batteries were located in current battery bays (in front of drive, and in back of tag axle)
-Main circuit board is located in the new inverter bay (L4) on the ceiling of that
-48-24VDC batrium transformer and auto gen start solenoids are located in pantry closet right behind microwave along with the GX screen

Yesterday I was able to finish the battery top balance charging each cell to 3.64V.  I am letting them sit hooked up until I start the install of the batteries.

There were many challenges with hooking up everything, here are some of the more challenging ones:

-Running wiring to the shore power bay and behind tag axle from the new inverter bay.  This took the longest to prepare for.  Without being able use Simons pit, it would not have been possible to do it as clean as it turned out.  From the new inverter bay, I first went on top of the a/c ducting back to L5 bay, then over to R5.  I went "over the wall" of the R5 bay to R6 fishing the lines (3@6/4 So cables and 6@2/0 battery cables along with a bunch of smaller wires (about 20..).  I drilled 5 holes for 1-1/2 PVC pipe through the R6 aquahot bay into R7 battery bay to run lines through without abrasion.  Then I cut a 4 x 7 oval  in the top back of the battery bay and removed some of the sheet metal above the diesel tank to route the wiring down near the hydraulic cooler area.  I then followed the existing 6/4 wire that came from the generator to the back shore line bay, and the 2/0 battery cable to the battery box behind the tag axle.  (long winded, but a long way to go!)

-Hanging the inverters in bay L4.....I am not as strong as I used to be, I hope to never have to remove.  I mounted a 1/2" panel of baltic birch to the aft of the bay being sure to screw into the metal framing behind the normal bay material as well as putting fender washers all the way through the bay without hitting exisiting inverter or anything already mounted on the front of L5 bay

-Getting an organized place for all of the circuit board that is mounted on the roof of L4 bay.  The board is mounted to the tube frame members with 6 screws that are tapped into the steel

-Drilling the 3 holes through the three 3/8 steel plates on the inside of the shoreline power bay for the 6/4 wire.  I am not as young as I used to be, but carbide hole saws helped me prevail.  The 3 holes were needed to hook up the split phase power that hooks the shore line to generator to main panel together through the inverter.  I removed the existing transfer switch as the inverter has the built in.


That is all for now, I will post some more as I get time.  Enjoy!
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]]>
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.jpg 20230716_070742.jpg Size: 3.94 MB  Downloads: 77
.jpg 20230715_073554.jpg Size: 2.97 MB  Downloads: 86

Well guru's, I figured it was time to post about the solar, LiFePO battery and inverter upgrade.  It has been a long time coming, but I am nearing completion.

I will start with a little description of the main components:
-2 Victron 5KVA quattro inverters
-Victron 150/70 solar controller for 48V batteries
-Victron 100/50 solar controller for charging 12V from 48V batteries
-Victron GX
-3 280Ah batteries made from 48 EVE cells
-Batrium watchmon core battery monitor/controller
-16 100W solar panels hooked up 4S4P
-48-24VDC transformer for Batrium control

It all started about 2 years ago prior to a trip with my bride to our 2nd burning man event.  The plan was to have it all done, but that was not in the cards with the rest of life happening, so I installed the solar the panels and controller to the failing 12V D house batteries.  This has lasted and we never ran out of power even though we were down to 4 batteries.

The location of the devices was a challenge as we did not want to take away any of our storage so here is where I ended up with placement:
-The inverters were located on the back wall of bay L4 (just in front of current inverter/generator-aquahot exhaust bay)
-Both solar controllers were located in the current inverter/generator-aquahot exhaust bay
-3 new batteries were located in current battery bays (in front of drive, and in back of tag axle)
-Main circuit board is located in the new inverter bay (L4) on the ceiling of that
-48-24VDC batrium transformer and auto gen start solenoids are located in pantry closet right behind microwave along with the GX screen

Yesterday I was able to finish the battery top balance charging each cell to 3.64V.  I am letting them sit hooked up until I start the install of the batteries.

There were many challenges with hooking up everything, here are some of the more challenging ones:

-Running wiring to the shore power bay and behind tag axle from the new inverter bay.  This took the longest to prepare for.  Without being able use Simons pit, it would not have been possible to do it as clean as it turned out.  From the new inverter bay, I first went on top of the a/c ducting back to L5 bay, then over to R5.  I went "over the wall" of the R5 bay to R6 fishing the lines (3@6/4 So cables and 6@2/0 battery cables along with a bunch of smaller wires (about 20..).  I drilled 5 holes for 1-1/2 PVC pipe through the R6 aquahot bay into R7 battery bay to run lines through without abrasion.  Then I cut a 4 x 7 oval  in the top back of the battery bay and removed some of the sheet metal above the diesel tank to route the wiring down near the hydraulic cooler area.  I then followed the existing 6/4 wire that came from the generator to the back shore line bay, and the 2/0 battery cable to the battery box behind the tag axle.  (long winded, but a long way to go!)

-Hanging the inverters in bay L4.....I am not as strong as I used to be, I hope to never have to remove.  I mounted a 1/2" panel of baltic birch to the aft of the bay being sure to screw into the metal framing behind the normal bay material as well as putting fender washers all the way through the bay without hitting exisiting inverter or anything already mounted on the front of L5 bay

-Getting an organized place for all of the circuit board that is mounted on the roof of L4 bay.  The board is mounted to the tube frame members with 6 screws that are tapped into the steel

-Drilling the 3 holes through the three 3/8 steel plates on the inside of the shoreline power bay for the 6/4 wire.  I am not as young as I used to be, but carbide hole saws helped me prevail.  The 3 holes were needed to hook up the split phase power that hooks the shore line to generator to main panel together through the inverter.  I removed the existing transfer switch as the inverter has the built in.


That is all for now, I will post some more as I get time.  Enjoy!
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]]> <![CDATA[Pyrometer on Silverleaf?]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7193 Mon, 30 Jan 2023 22:17:17 +0000 360]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7193 <![CDATA[Alternator not Alternating]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7168 Thu, 12 Jan 2023 15:10:20 +0000 kkonsulting@msn.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7168
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]]> <![CDATA[Battery Panel w/Breakers & Disconnect Diagram]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7123 Tue, 13 Dec 2022 19:55:19 +0000 CaptainGizmo]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7123
In our case, we have a 2015. So for the teenagers out there, you've got 2 breakers for the inverters, which supply 110/220v. Below them, notice the red rotary disconnect switch; this is a MASTER DISCONNECT for the Negative (Ground) which will also kill the inverters.  This is very important to understand any time you need to shut one or the other systems down. Remember that this is completely independent from the Chassis batteries & disconnect.

Also, another key point is Newell has made safety choice of having that 12-volt switch DISCONNECT THE GROUND (NEGATIVE). There is as much controversy on that topic as there is Chevy vs. Ford or Bud vs. Coors! However, from a firefighting and emergency response POV I can understand and support the reasoning. We ALWAYS attempt to disconnect the ground/negative from the chassis FIRST. This removes the chances for arcing/shorts from incidental contact with the postive side.

Since there are no pre-existing diagrams to illustrate what goes on behind that shiney panel, I made my own to share. Hope this helps you!

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]]>
In our case, we have a 2015. So for the teenagers out there, you've got 2 breakers for the inverters, which supply 110/220v. Below them, notice the red rotary disconnect switch; this is a MASTER DISCONNECT for the Negative (Ground) which will also kill the inverters.  This is very important to understand any time you need to shut one or the other systems down. Remember that this is completely independent from the Chassis batteries & disconnect.

Also, another key point is Newell has made safety choice of having that 12-volt switch DISCONNECT THE GROUND (NEGATIVE). There is as much controversy on that topic as there is Chevy vs. Ford or Bud vs. Coors! However, from a firefighting and emergency response POV I can understand and support the reasoning. We ALWAYS attempt to disconnect the ground/negative from the chassis FIRST. This removes the chances for arcing/shorts from incidental contact with the postive side.

Since there are no pre-existing diagrams to illustrate what goes on behind that shiney panel, I made my own to share. Hope this helps you!

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.jpg House Layout.jpg Size: 299.03 KB  Downloads: 90
]]> <![CDATA[Shoreline Cord reel]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=6821 Fri, 10 Jun 2022 21:07:43 +0000 Boater98]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=6821 Doug]]> Doug]]> <![CDATA[Correct Chassis Batteries]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=5729 Tue, 20 Oct 2020 02:01:38 +0000 Westwind77@msn.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=5729 <![CDATA[Best Place to purchase house batteries]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=5373 Tue, 11 Feb 2020 20:35:53 +0000 Jerry]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=5373
Thanks,
Jerry]]>
Thanks,
Jerry]]> <![CDATA[Puck lights part numbers]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=3632 Tue, 25 Jul 2017 16:33:35 +0000 pestes]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=3632 I found I am missing a single white trim around one of the 12V puck lights. After some back and forth searching, I found the exact trim. Of course, only as the whole light, not as a separate item. Can't have everything I guess.

The puck light is made by Hafele and the white trim with concentric grooves is Hafele part number 823.29.735.

I haven't found the gold part number with the same concentric rings, but fortunately I'm not missing any of those at this time. Based on Hafele's website, it seems like they might not do the gold anymore. Based on how their part numbers seem to map out, I suspect it was 823.29.835 but I can't find any reference to them.
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]]> I found I am missing a single white trim around one of the 12V puck lights. After some back and forth searching, I found the exact trim. Of course, only as the whole light, not as a separate item. Can't have everything I guess.

The puck light is made by Hafele and the white trim with concentric grooves is Hafele part number 823.29.735.

I haven't found the gold part number with the same concentric rings, but fortunately I'm not missing any of those at this time. Based on Hafele's website, it seems like they might not do the gold anymore. Based on how their part numbers seem to map out, I suspect it was 823.29.835 but I can't find any reference to them.
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]]> <![CDATA[Essex 1602 keyless entry programming]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=3362 Sun, 26 Feb 2017 15:46:23 +0000 encantotom]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=3362
tom
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]]>
tom
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]]> <![CDATA[Ignition Fuel Valve Wiring Problem]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=3221 Tue, 22 Nov 2016 01:14:03 +0000 wooflee90]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=3221
There were two wires in the harness, and since I couldn't find another to replace it, I just added clips to the wires, and plugged them directly into the blades on the steering column.

However, the bus will not crank from the ignition now. It appears the wire that had burned was the ignition fuel valve wire (orange wire in the photos). When I turn the switch, the wire is hot, but the bus just turns over and sounds like it is not getting fuel now. I went to the emergency start at the back of the bus, and it fires right up. We just cannot crank from the ignition switch right now.

I tested the wire at the terminal board under the dash in front of the passenger seat, but the wire is not hot, whether the ignition switch is on or not.

I am assuming there must be a fuse in this line that blew, but I can't find a fuse and it's difficult to try to track this wire from the steering column across to the terminal board. However, I didn't have any problem cranking the bus until I reconnected the burned wire.

I was thinking of running a wire directly from the steering column blade to the terminal board (with fuse) to see if that allows the bus to crank from the ignition switch. If that works, I was just going to rerun the wire from the steering column to the terminal board. Does that sound reasonable?

Does anyone know if anything else pulls from this wire or if it is just the ignition fuel valve?

What size fuse would you recommend to put on my test wire?

Thanks,

Greg Lee
1987 Newell Classic Coach, 38'6"
Detroit Diesel 8V92TA, 475 HP, Allison 4-speed auto transmission, Perkins Diesel 18kw generator
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There were two wires in the harness, and since I couldn't find another to replace it, I just added clips to the wires, and plugged them directly into the blades on the steering column.

However, the bus will not crank from the ignition now. It appears the wire that had burned was the ignition fuel valve wire (orange wire in the photos). When I turn the switch, the wire is hot, but the bus just turns over and sounds like it is not getting fuel now. I went to the emergency start at the back of the bus, and it fires right up. We just cannot crank from the ignition switch right now.

I tested the wire at the terminal board under the dash in front of the passenger seat, but the wire is not hot, whether the ignition switch is on or not.

I am assuming there must be a fuse in this line that blew, but I can't find a fuse and it's difficult to try to track this wire from the steering column across to the terminal board. However, I didn't have any problem cranking the bus until I reconnected the burned wire.

I was thinking of running a wire directly from the steering column blade to the terminal board (with fuse) to see if that allows the bus to crank from the ignition switch. If that works, I was just going to rerun the wire from the steering column to the terminal board. Does that sound reasonable?

Does anyone know if anything else pulls from this wire or if it is just the ignition fuel valve?

What size fuse would you recommend to put on my test wire?

Thanks,

Greg Lee
1987 Newell Classic Coach, 38'6"
Detroit Diesel 8V92TA, 475 HP, Allison 4-speed auto transmission, Perkins Diesel 18kw generator
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