<![CDATA[Newell Gurus

<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Slides]]> https://newellgurus.com/ Wed, 03 Jun 2026 23:00:56 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[502 slides quit working]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8936 Sat, 25 Apr 2026 23:20:31 +0000 ACR]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8936 <![CDATA[Rear slide]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8867 Wed, 11 Feb 2026 13:54:43 +0000 Jack Houpe]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8867
Sequence of operation for those who are interested.
Turn on or start coach. When you turn the slide key on there is a delay time (555 timer) so your seal can deflate, then when it illuminates you can start the extend or retract procedure either way the first thing is the locks activation to open after fully open there is a slight delay (555 timer) then the main hydraulic ram under the bed to either in or out and once the limit switch for totally in or out under the bed is made then there is slight delay again activates the locks to lock. Note my locks have NEVER worked in the rear and this unit has been out and sent to HWH prior to my ownership so somehow those limit switch activation has been removed from the sequence of operation.]]>
Sequence of operation for those who are interested.
Turn on or start coach. When you turn the slide key on there is a delay time (555 timer) so your seal can deflate, then when it illuminates you can start the extend or retract procedure either way the first thing is the locks activation to open after fully open there is a slight delay (555 timer) then the main hydraulic ram under the bed to either in or out and once the limit switch for totally in or out under the bed is made then there is slight delay again activates the locks to lock. Note my locks have NEVER worked in the rear and this unit has been out and sent to HWH prior to my ownership so somehow those limit switch activation has been removed from the sequence of operation.]]> <![CDATA[HWH logic board for slide 2]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8657 Fri, 29 Aug 2025 11:06:24 +0000 Jack Houpe]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8657
Does anyone have a logic board for room #2?

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Does anyone have a logic board for room #2?

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]]> <![CDATA[Slides not flush]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8459 Thu, 29 May 2025 00:04:07 +0000 jmbushey]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8459
Thanks!

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Thanks!

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]]> <![CDATA[Bent slide lock mount]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8433 Tue, 29 Apr 2025 03:20:23 +0000 B Humberstone]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8433 I have read on here that some people have capped the houses and just removed the pin.
My question is what wiring jumper are needed to keep everything happy.

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]]> I have read on here that some people have capped the houses and just removed the pin.
My question is what wiring jumper are needed to keep everything happy.

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]]> <![CDATA[Slideout Awning Woes]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8311 Mon, 30 Dec 2024 18:16:56 +0000 whited44]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8311
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO8Iuj7ReKA

So long story short. I went to put the slide out and watch the slide awning go out like it was supposed to and it got almost all the way out and 1 of the castings broke again. Zip Dee is closed for the holiday but just wondered it anyone else had any problems like this?? The spring is original but seem like it wound nicely.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO8Iuj7ReKA

So long story short. I went to put the slide out and watch the slide awning go out like it was supposed to and it got almost all the way out and 1 of the castings broke again. Zip Dee is closed for the holiday but just wondered it anyone else had any problems like this?? The spring is original but seem like it wound nicely.

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]]> <![CDATA[Rear Slide limit switch locations]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8300 Sun, 22 Dec 2024 04:04:06 +0000 Jesse]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8300
Jesse and Sara White
2001 Newell Coach 2 Slide - 582
Wasilla Alaska

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Jesse and Sara White
2001 Newell Coach 2 Slide - 582
Wasilla Alaska

20241221_175201.jpg Size: 4.74 MB Downloads: 183

]]> <![CDATA[This is going to stir things up]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8277 Sat, 07 Dec 2024 14:00:08 +0000 Jack Houpe]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8277
https://www.ebay.com/itm/305345588847?_s...BMjJrYk_Rk]]>
https://www.ebay.com/itm/305345588847?_s...BMjJrYk_Rk]]> <![CDATA[How do I safely bypass a Slide Hydraulic Line?]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8258 Thu, 21 Nov 2024 23:18:52 +0000 racerswift]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8258

What's the safe way to bypass a slides hydraulics. I have a leaking cylinder and it's going to be while before I can deal with it.

Can I just cap off the Extend and Retract lines at the front manifold?

I'm assuming I have to relieve the pressure first. From the forum I see I need to turn the screw on the solenoids 3-4 turns. Is that counter clockwise? Is that all I have to do to relieve the pressure? It might already be relieved based on the volume of fluid all over the front of the rear passenger tires.

Is the proper solenoid directly across from the given line?

All my lines are labeled but of course it's Right Rear extend/retract and Left Rear Extend/Retract. Is the Passenger side right?

Once I cap it off do I return the solenoid to it's normal position or leave it relieved (x turns the opposite direction)?

Should I cap off the lines as well?

I have hydraulic slide locks, is it ok to drive the coach after I block of the lines? I have new front 365's about to show up in theory so I need to get to the tire shop.

Thanks

Frank]]>

What's the safe way to bypass a slides hydraulics. I have a leaking cylinder and it's going to be while before I can deal with it.

Can I just cap off the Extend and Retract lines at the front manifold?

I'm assuming I have to relieve the pressure first. From the forum I see I need to turn the screw on the solenoids 3-4 turns. Is that counter clockwise? Is that all I have to do to relieve the pressure? It might already be relieved based on the volume of fluid all over the front of the rear passenger tires.

Is the proper solenoid directly across from the given line?

All my lines are labeled but of course it's Right Rear extend/retract and Left Rear Extend/Retract. Is the Passenger side right?

Once I cap it off do I return the solenoid to it's normal position or leave it relieved (x turns the opposite direction)?

Should I cap off the lines as well?

I have hydraulic slide locks, is it ok to drive the coach after I block of the lines? I have new front 365's about to show up in theory so I need to get to the tire shop.

Thanks

Frank]]> <![CDATA[Bedroom aft slide seal replacement]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8157 Tue, 17 Sep 2024 04:11:12 +0000 Gnawrocki1]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8157 I was able to go to Tom’s house to do the repairs, many thanks Tom. Tom had never done a bedroom slide, so he was very interested in helping and seeing it all go down.
Trying to follow others directions on the forum, but I ran into a snag almost immediately because mine was different than any others that were reported. Although similar in functionality of the control system, the design was different and required a few special procedures. Here is the general outline:
1.       Purchased seal, 3/16-18 rivnut driver tool, and aluminum rivnut from Newell as well as E-6000 adhesive and seal splice plate. I used a stainless flat head screw with hex drive about 1-1/4 long to mount the splice plate.
2.       Remove the bedroom shade outside the coach and place on top with padding. Due to preload, we had to tie it to keep from falling down to the passenger side wheel well. Toms lift came in real handy for this activity as well as seal re-install, I highly recommend having access to this.
3.       The valence above the bed needed to be removed. This is a 2 person job because it is awkward, I don’t recommend trying to do this by yourself. It lifts off of Newells homemade z bracket.
4.       Because my back wall could not come in 3” or so from its normal position due to interference with the closet door trim, removal of the padded wall aft of the bed was necessary to pull the slide in the required amount. There are only 2 screws that hold it in to the closet framing but the night stand and headboard had to be removed first. Other people did not have to do this step, so you may not have to depending on your build.
5.       When the access panel was removed from underneath the bed, another surprise was waiting to be found. The mechanism was a design that was different than others documentation. So I guess it is true that no two Newells are alike. The access door under the bed only left access to the limit switch that was at full extension. This made the removal of mattress, mattress board and bed lift actuator necessary. It helped having 2 people do this as well because the parts are very awkward. All that is left is the outside frame of the bed at this point.
6.       Now you have to lay on your back, and with very limited access from near the headboard you can lay on your back and see the slide “in” stop bolt and the limit switch bracket, both of which need to come off to pull the slide in for seal access. Before you remove the bolt (it holds the limit switch touch point bracket and also acts as a physical stop), you should measure from the end of the bolt the welded on bracket that holds the bolt so you will not disturb the slide adjustments. The only tool I can think of for this is a dial caliper using the depth measurement function. Take all readings in the same manner as you want consistent measurements. Nobody wants extra holes in their slide top! I was able to put a box wrench on the head of the bolt and rest it up against the bottom of the bed understorage so that would not move when I untorqued the nut on the end. Do not turn the jam nut, it is your adjusting mechanism.    When reassembling, reverify your measurement to insure you did not turn the jam nut.
7.       Don’t pull the slide in any farther than you have to for seal removal clearance. It helps to have someone look on the outside while you do this. Since it has a little delay from when you hit the retract button, go slow, very slow as you don’t want to over-retract more than you have to.
8.       Remove the seal. Since mine was original they did not use any adhesive and was a very easy removal. Remove the hose for filling and disconnect from the coach tubing above and aft of the tag axel wheel well. It has a clamp on a push on barbed fitting.
9.       In the center of the slide, you will need to cut away the seal retainer (its plastic and cuts easily with an oscilating saw) a little longer than the splice plate to allow for a transition of the seal splice.
10.   Install new seal without any sealant compressing the seal as you work your way around especially at the corners. Cut the seal long enough so that you can fold it over for the entire splice plate on itself. Measure 3 times and cut to final length only once, twice is not enough.   At the splice plate, I removed the dovetail portion of the seal (be careful not to cut too deep, there is no room for error unless you want it to leak). You don’t have to be exactly flush cut, but I would be kind of close as you want the splice plate to clear the slide on height after complete.
11.   I did a trail run of bolting up the seal plate to make sure that I was all set. Then removed seal plate.
12.   I cleaned the inside of the seal ends with rubbing alcohol to remove the powder that was in there. Then I applied the adhesive to each end of the seal, double backed the seal on itself and installed the seal plate and tightened the bolt. I was able to keep the splice plate square to the seal by using a block that was up against the slide to keep it from rotating. Mine was ½”, but depending on how far you pull in the slide yours may be different thickness. The adhesive dries pretty fast and is very runny. You should have adhesive remover on hand in case you need it. It is pretty tough not to make a mess….. Tom did pretty good with the caulking gun, he did this action before.
13.   Since there was no adhesive all the way around, I did not feel the need to goop it up everywhere, so small amounts were applied every 9”-12” or so around the seal in the groove after I pulled up a small section for a little dollop.   It is hard to control the outflow of the sealant from the tube, so be quick and waste some in a rag. It is better than making a huge mess. We used about ½ of a tube, wasting probably half of it due to dripping after the fact.
14.   We let dry overnight and reassembled the next day in reverse order.
15.   Go slow and you should be fine. Be very careful with all of your adjustments, don’t press the limit switches at the wrong time and you should not have any extra bonus holes in your slide!
Good luck

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]]> I was able to go to Tom’s house to do the repairs, many thanks Tom. Tom had never done a bedroom slide, so he was very interested in helping and seeing it all go down.
Trying to follow others directions on the forum, but I ran into a snag almost immediately because mine was different than any others that were reported. Although similar in functionality of the control system, the design was different and required a few special procedures. Here is the general outline:
1.       Purchased seal, 3/16-18 rivnut driver tool, and aluminum rivnut from Newell as well as E-6000 adhesive and seal splice plate. I used a stainless flat head screw with hex drive about 1-1/4 long to mount the splice plate.
2.       Remove the bedroom shade outside the coach and place on top with padding. Due to preload, we had to tie it to keep from falling down to the passenger side wheel well. Toms lift came in real handy for this activity as well as seal re-install, I highly recommend having access to this.
3.       The valence above the bed needed to be removed. This is a 2 person job because it is awkward, I don’t recommend trying to do this by yourself. It lifts off of Newells homemade z bracket.
4.       Because my back wall could not come in 3” or so from its normal position due to interference with the closet door trim, removal of the padded wall aft of the bed was necessary to pull the slide in the required amount. There are only 2 screws that hold it in to the closet framing but the night stand and headboard had to be removed first. Other people did not have to do this step, so you may not have to depending on your build.
5.       When the access panel was removed from underneath the bed, another surprise was waiting to be found. The mechanism was a design that was different than others documentation. So I guess it is true that no two Newells are alike. The access door under the bed only left access to the limit switch that was at full extension. This made the removal of mattress, mattress board and bed lift actuator necessary. It helped having 2 people do this as well because the parts are very awkward. All that is left is the outside frame of the bed at this point.
6.       Now you have to lay on your back, and with very limited access from near the headboard you can lay on your back and see the slide “in” stop bolt and the limit switch bracket, both of which need to come off to pull the slide in for seal access. Before you remove the bolt (it holds the limit switch touch point bracket and also acts as a physical stop), you should measure from the end of the bolt the welded on bracket that holds the bolt so you will not disturb the slide adjustments. The only tool I can think of for this is a dial caliper using the depth measurement function. Take all readings in the same manner as you want consistent measurements. Nobody wants extra holes in their slide top! I was able to put a box wrench on the head of the bolt and rest it up against the bottom of the bed understorage so that would not move when I untorqued the nut on the end. Do not turn the jam nut, it is your adjusting mechanism.    When reassembling, reverify your measurement to insure you did not turn the jam nut.
7.       Don’t pull the slide in any farther than you have to for seal removal clearance. It helps to have someone look on the outside while you do this. Since it has a little delay from when you hit the retract button, go slow, very slow as you don’t want to over-retract more than you have to.
8.       Remove the seal. Since mine was original they did not use any adhesive and was a very easy removal. Remove the hose for filling and disconnect from the coach tubing above and aft of the tag axel wheel well. It has a clamp on a push on barbed fitting.
9.       In the center of the slide, you will need to cut away the seal retainer (its plastic and cuts easily with an oscilating saw) a little longer than the splice plate to allow for a transition of the seal splice.
10.   Install new seal without any sealant compressing the seal as you work your way around especially at the corners. Cut the seal long enough so that you can fold it over for the entire splice plate on itself. Measure 3 times and cut to final length only once, twice is not enough.   At the splice plate, I removed the dovetail portion of the seal (be careful not to cut too deep, there is no room for error unless you want it to leak). You don’t have to be exactly flush cut, but I would be kind of close as you want the splice plate to clear the slide on height after complete.
11.   I did a trail run of bolting up the seal plate to make sure that I was all set. Then removed seal plate.
12.   I cleaned the inside of the seal ends with rubbing alcohol to remove the powder that was in there. Then I applied the adhesive to each end of the seal, double backed the seal on itself and installed the seal plate and tightened the bolt. I was able to keep the splice plate square to the seal by using a block that was up against the slide to keep it from rotating. Mine was ½”, but depending on how far you pull in the slide yours may be different thickness. The adhesive dries pretty fast and is very runny. You should have adhesive remover on hand in case you need it. It is pretty tough not to make a mess….. Tom did pretty good with the caulking gun, he did this action before.
13.   Since there was no adhesive all the way around, I did not feel the need to goop it up everywhere, so small amounts were applied every 9”-12” or so around the seal in the groove after I pulled up a small section for a little dollop.   It is hard to control the outflow of the sealant from the tube, so be quick and waste some in a rag. It is better than making a huge mess. We used about ½ of a tube, wasting probably half of it due to dripping after the fact.
14.   We let dry overnight and reassembled the next day in reverse order.
15.   Go slow and you should be fine. Be very careful with all of your adjustments, don’t press the limit switches at the wrong time and you should not have any extra bonus holes in your slide!
Good luck

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aft panel and headboard removed.jpg Size: 93.21 KB Downloads: 158

location of seal fill tube.jpg Size: 400.68 KB Downloads: 157

retract limit switch stop and physical stop.jpg Size: 102.57 KB Downloads: 127

slide seal with removal of retainer and added rivnut.jpg Size: 140.27 KB Downloads: 35

]]> <![CDATA[2001, 3 HWH slides, front salon slide won't retract]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8115 Tue, 20 Aug 2024 15:19:08 +0000 smagown]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8115
The rear rooms work fine but the pump doesn't stop when you let off the switch , since it was still on I was able to jump the solenoid. The front room switch will turn the pump on but is intermittent and the yellow light is also intermitent.

The control unit isn't sending 12v to the solenoid, not sure yet about the micro switches at the pin locks but the pins were not locked, The lights on the unit don't all work.]]>
The rear rooms work fine but the pump doesn't stop when you let off the switch , since it was still on I was able to jump the solenoid. The front room switch will turn the pump on but is intermittent and the yellow light is also intermitent.

The control unit isn't sending 12v to the solenoid, not sure yet about the micro switches at the pin locks but the pins were not locked, The lights on the unit don't all work.]]> <![CDATA[bedroom slide locking pin how to get the front valance off]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8086 Fri, 26 Jul 2024 19:09:40 +0000 rvguy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8086
now time to do the bedroom locking pins. Cant figure out how to get that front valance off, there are no bolts or screws like the front one had. Also the center roof piece slides with the slide in the roof. ( where the fan is ) Anybody/somebody has to have done this before. Any help on how to get that front valance off the bedroom slide would be greatly appreciated.]]>
now time to do the bedroom locking pins. Cant figure out how to get that front valance off, there are no bolts or screws like the front one had. Also the center roof piece slides with the slide in the roof. ( where the fan is ) Anybody/somebody has to have done this before. Any help on how to get that front valance off the bedroom slide would be greatly appreciated.]]> <![CDATA[HWH BEDROOM SLIDE ADJUSTMENT]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8077 Mon, 22 Jul 2024 21:23:27 +0000 Jhp.loveconstruction@gmail.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8077 Does anyone know of any adjustment.
Thank you,
James Price,
Coach 647, 2003 60sd]]> Does anyone know of any adjustment.
Thank you,
James Price,
Coach 647, 2003 60sd]]> <![CDATA[hwh slides experience at newell is fading]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8028 Tue, 04 Jun 2024 19:30:32 +0000 encantotom]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8028
for those of us with hwh hydraulic slides it is becoming very clear that the old guard at newell that understood and fixed them is fading quickly. that makes it even more important for us to help each other and document and post our fixes and experiences with them.

i have spent alot of time talking to folks about issues and some have said that newell has told them they cannot help them with their hwh problems.

i know that richard has spent even more time than i as well as glen and others.

top it off with the fact that hwh in iowa has a rather unusual phone support system that makes it challenging to get timely help. in addition, newell did some of their own modifications to the hwh setup so hwh is not always able to help.

i have done a handful of slide seals at my place on my own coach and others. i have a rather nice slide cart to take the flat floor slides out for replacing the seal. i am not always available but am usually willing to help with it if you are near az. the only cost is your blood sweat and tears and keeping me laughing.

all that said, please take the time to document whatever issues you have so that we can help each other as the support for our older systems slowly fades into the sunset.

lets keep helping each other. i am proud to be associated with all of you

tom]]>
for those of us with hwh hydraulic slides it is becoming very clear that the old guard at newell that understood and fixed them is fading quickly. that makes it even more important for us to help each other and document and post our fixes and experiences with them.

i have spent alot of time talking to folks about issues and some have said that newell has told them they cannot help them with their hwh problems.

i know that richard has spent even more time than i as well as glen and others.

top it off with the fact that hwh in iowa has a rather unusual phone support system that makes it challenging to get timely help. in addition, newell did some of their own modifications to the hwh setup so hwh is not always able to help.

i have done a handful of slide seals at my place on my own coach and others. i have a rather nice slide cart to take the flat floor slides out for replacing the seal. i am not always available but am usually willing to help with it if you are near az. the only cost is your blood sweat and tears and keeping me laughing.

all that said, please take the time to document whatever issues you have so that we can help each other as the support for our older systems slowly fades into the sunset.

lets keep helping each other. i am proud to be associated with all of you

tom]]> <![CDATA[HWH limit switch microswitch]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7969 Mon, 22 Apr 2024 13:39:01 +0000 Richard]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7969
https://www.grainger.com/product/HONEYWE...itch-6DXC7

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https://www.grainger.com/product/HONEYWE...itch-6DXC7

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