<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Fuel System]]> https://newellgurus.com/ Wed, 03 Jun 2026 23:00:57 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Simple priming trick]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8916 Tue, 14 Apr 2026 15:16:47 +0000 Richard]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8916 Priming bulb like you see on outboard motors. Plumb up
The bulb so you can pipe it just upstream from the fuel filter. Take it out once you get the system primed]]> Priming bulb like you see on outboard motors. Plumb up
The bulb so you can pipe it just upstream from the fuel filter. Take it out once you get the system primed]]> <![CDATA[DEF Doser Valve Derate]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8450 Thu, 22 May 2025 22:45:14 +0000 hypoxia]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8450
Using Cummins Insite, I did the "Aftertreatment Diesel Exhaust Fluid System Leak Test"  It held 130 PSI with no leaks evident.  I also did the "Diesel Exhaust Fluid Doser Pump Override Test" which required removing the Doser Valve to watch it spray DEF.  Removing the valve was easy, 3 screws with an 8mm socket, 6" extension and 1/4" ratchet.  It sprayed OK, I re-seated the electrical plug on the valve & traced the wiring somewhat but didn't see any obvious problems.  

Code 3714 will derate the torque and then limit the speed to 5 MPH.  It derated to the first level yesterday but I made it to my campsite OK.

Using Insite I cleared the codes and drove 200 miles today with no issues.

Doser Valve 
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]]>
Using Cummins Insite, I did the "Aftertreatment Diesel Exhaust Fluid System Leak Test"  It held 130 PSI with no leaks evident.  I also did the "Diesel Exhaust Fluid Doser Pump Override Test" which required removing the Doser Valve to watch it spray DEF.  Removing the valve was easy, 3 screws with an 8mm socket, 6" extension and 1/4" ratchet.  It sprayed OK, I re-seated the electrical plug on the valve & traced the wiring somewhat but didn't see any obvious problems.  

Code 3714 will derate the torque and then limit the speed to 5 MPH.  It derated to the first level yesterday but I made it to my campsite OK.

Using Insite I cleared the codes and drove 200 miles today with no issues.

Doser Valve 
.jpg IMG_0576.jpg Size: 592.12 KB  Downloads: 75
.jpg IMG_0577.jpg Size: 570.21 KB  Downloads: 78
]]> <![CDATA[fuel issue starting and low idle]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8344 Thu, 23 Jan 2025 04:09:58 +0000 drivfour@gmail.com]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8344 Hard starting lack of fuel. once started after lots of cranking, will run at low idle for about a minute then shut down. once I can get speed up and put in high idle, continues to run.
Read various posts regarding tank vent, check valve and filter but not sure if my issues is one of these. Any strong opinions?
Thanks
JD]]> Hard starting lack of fuel. once started after lots of cranking, will run at low idle for about a minute then shut down. once I can get speed up and put in high idle, continues to run.
Read various posts regarding tank vent, check valve and filter but not sure if my issues is one of these. Any strong opinions?
Thanks
JD]]> <![CDATA[Fuel delivery problem to my Cat C15]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7545 Fri, 01 Sep 2023 05:08:11 +0000 DK on the road]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7545
 I'd never had this happen before. I walked around back, and all seemed good except my 382 Fuel PROcessor (large plastic) inverted Fuel filter was showing a little less fuel than normal. Normally its up about 2" but now it was 1" Not too weird, but a sign I should have recognized. I traveled about 200 miles and got into a series of stop lights and at idle I noticed it was running a bit rough and down at 500 vs 600 rpm normally. I noticed hesitating or stumbling on acceleration, so I pulled into a Hobby Lobby parking lot. 

On a side note, I get a bit of anxiety towing a full-size pickup and pulling into shopping centers with random cars, islands with tree's and possibly being forced to unhook and back out. On this day the God's were with me. I just got the coach circled around and pointed towards an easy escape route when it stumbled and died.

 I was not getting fuel. Now the 382 Fuel PROcessor had about 1/4" in it.  I first thought a lift pump was failing or a pressure relief valve was hanging open and washing 60 PSI fuel back to the tank and not getting to the injectors. I was in Twin Falls ID. I contacted the local Cat dealer; they said about 4-5 days out. Cat recommended the Freightliner dealer. Freightliner said if not their chassis, they couldn't do it. The recommended a local "Big rig" RV dealer, they don't do field calls. I tried Kenworth and Peterbuilt in town and each pointed fingers at each other and said they would do me right and couldn't themselves take care of me. I drove over to the original CAT dealer that I spoke with which was only about 10 minutes away in my pickup and spoke in person with the service manager. He suggested we order a lift pump from out-of-town w $134 freight bill attached to be in hand by 9 am the next morning.

The coach died at about 11 am, by 2 pm CAT surrendered and had a field mechanic at my coach. After several hours of pressure testing and trying out used lift pumps and testing pressures, blowing through fuel lines, pulling a vacuum on fuel lines, we found 2 things.

The fitting on the top of the fuel tanks had come loose enough to allow air to enter the system. This was only visible and found when I pulled the pretty SS panel that make my fuel tank look so nice, off to trace fuel lines and verify the "fuel check valve" was working correctly.  I was losing prime, because the leak was prior to the check valve.

I was on the road and out of Hobby lobby Parking lot by 9 pm. 

Occam's Razor= the simplest solution is always the best. When you here hoofbeats, think horses not Zebras (and unicorns). 

Well in this case, it's where I should have looked first because it was simpler than I was making it out to be.

I post my lessons learned, so that other don't make the same mistakes.
Post script, we did about 2,500 more miles without a hiccup.]]>
 I'd never had this happen before. I walked around back, and all seemed good except my 382 Fuel PROcessor (large plastic) inverted Fuel filter was showing a little less fuel than normal. Normally its up about 2" but now it was 1" Not too weird, but a sign I should have recognized. I traveled about 200 miles and got into a series of stop lights and at idle I noticed it was running a bit rough and down at 500 vs 600 rpm normally. I noticed hesitating or stumbling on acceleration, so I pulled into a Hobby Lobby parking lot. 

On a side note, I get a bit of anxiety towing a full-size pickup and pulling into shopping centers with random cars, islands with tree's and possibly being forced to unhook and back out. On this day the God's were with me. I just got the coach circled around and pointed towards an easy escape route when it stumbled and died.

 I was not getting fuel. Now the 382 Fuel PROcessor had about 1/4" in it.  I first thought a lift pump was failing or a pressure relief valve was hanging open and washing 60 PSI fuel back to the tank and not getting to the injectors. I was in Twin Falls ID. I contacted the local Cat dealer; they said about 4-5 days out. Cat recommended the Freightliner dealer. Freightliner said if not their chassis, they couldn't do it. The recommended a local "Big rig" RV dealer, they don't do field calls. I tried Kenworth and Peterbuilt in town and each pointed fingers at each other and said they would do me right and couldn't themselves take care of me. I drove over to the original CAT dealer that I spoke with which was only about 10 minutes away in my pickup and spoke in person with the service manager. He suggested we order a lift pump from out-of-town w $134 freight bill attached to be in hand by 9 am the next morning.

The coach died at about 11 am, by 2 pm CAT surrendered and had a field mechanic at my coach. After several hours of pressure testing and trying out used lift pumps and testing pressures, blowing through fuel lines, pulling a vacuum on fuel lines, we found 2 things.

The fitting on the top of the fuel tanks had come loose enough to allow air to enter the system. This was only visible and found when I pulled the pretty SS panel that make my fuel tank look so nice, off to trace fuel lines and verify the "fuel check valve" was working correctly.  I was losing prime, because the leak was prior to the check valve.

I was on the road and out of Hobby lobby Parking lot by 9 pm. 

Occam's Razor= the simplest solution is always the best. When you here hoofbeats, think horses not Zebras (and unicorns). 

Well in this case, it's where I should have looked first because it was simpler than I was making it out to be.

I post my lessons learned, so that other don't make the same mistakes.
Post script, we did about 2,500 more miles without a hiccup.]]> <![CDATA[Fuel-tach code]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7494 Tue, 01 Aug 2023 20:41:37 +0000 Handwalker]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7494 <![CDATA[Series 60 Check Valve Location]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7346 Thu, 04 May 2023 12:57:09 +0000 Richard]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7346
The check valve for the fuel return line for a Series 60 is NOT on the back of the engine as every Detroit manual and YouTube video shows. It is located in the return line just before the return line enters the tank. Remove the vanity panel, and look for the green return line. 

A bit of general explanation may be in order to understand how the system is supposed to work. Fuel enters the fuel filter and exits to the fuel pump. The fuel pump pulls a slight vacuum on the filter and supplies fuel up to 75 psi up to the back of the engine head. It may or may not go through a ProChek air removal device before it reaches the back of the head. The fuel circulates under pressure through passages in the engine head to provide fuel to the injectors. An excess of fuel is supplied, and the excess exits the head, restricted by a 1/16 passage and check valve to a fuel return line that ends in the fuel tank. Since this a loop, the purpose of the check valve in the return line is prevent the return line from siphoning all the fuel out of the passages in the head. If that fuel is siphoned, then the fuel pump has to refill the passages before the injectors have any fuel. This is a chore on a Series 60 because the fuel pump is mechanical. It only pumps if the engine is turning over.

Ok, for the rest of the story, otherwise known as this one got me good. On our first stop out of Florida, the coach would not crank the next morning. Engine computer was ok, no codes, but no signs of firing. No smell of diesel at the exhaust. Fuel level was about 1/2 up the Davco bowl. Hmmmmmm. After grinding on it multiple times it tried to fire, and several grinds later, it cranked and ran smoothly. No problems for the 200 mile drive afterwards. At this point, I am pretty sure the engine just lost prime. 

A little giggle research shows bad hoses, loose connections, failed check valve in return line, and the scariest….failed o ring on an injector. 

Now, headed to Alaska, you just don’t want to wonder if your coach is going to start each morning, so I went into overdrive mentally. That is not a good thing. 

My next clue, was I marked the level of fuel in the Davco before shutting down, and then noticed it was several inches HIGHER the next morning. Ok, that is consistent with losing prime, the fuel is draining back from the head into the fuel filter. That points to a failed check valve. The only problem is that the check valve is purportedly on the back on the engine head. NO WAY to reach the back of the engine head to replace the valve without pulling the bathroom floor. Sigh. 

After sleeping on this it hits me that the fuel in the return line does not care where the check valve is located. So concoct a plan to cut the return line in an accessible place and splice in a check valve. More sleep, and it hits me to just install it where the return line enters the tank. No cutting of the fuel line involved.

I was removing the vanity panel to access the top of the tank when I got a pleasant surprise. When removing the fuel fill cap, it was obvious the tank was under a lot of vacuum. Huh? Yep, so much that the tank “bonged” when the cap was removed. Well that would explain why the fuel was draining out of the engine, a vacuum like that would pull the fuel back out of the lines. But why is the tank under vacuum. It has to be the vent line is stopped up. Fortunately, the vent line is readily accessible, so I disconnect it, and try to pull it free to inspect. I cannot pull it free. I have pinched it when I reinstalled the fuel tank this winter. I love it, happy dance, I have a smoking gun. I install a new vent line, and crank the beast. 

As I am looking at the top of the tank, I see that Newell installed a check valve in the fuel return line just before it enters the tank. Clever on their part. Far easier access than the rear of the engine. 

Enjoy your entertainment at my expense. FWIW, when you hear hoofbeats think horses not zebras. I just wish I could remind myself of that from time to time.]]>
The check valve for the fuel return line for a Series 60 is NOT on the back of the engine as every Detroit manual and YouTube video shows. It is located in the return line just before the return line enters the tank. Remove the vanity panel, and look for the green return line. 

A bit of general explanation may be in order to understand how the system is supposed to work. Fuel enters the fuel filter and exits to the fuel pump. The fuel pump pulls a slight vacuum on the filter and supplies fuel up to 75 psi up to the back of the engine head. It may or may not go through a ProChek air removal device before it reaches the back of the head. The fuel circulates under pressure through passages in the engine head to provide fuel to the injectors. An excess of fuel is supplied, and the excess exits the head, restricted by a 1/16 passage and check valve to a fuel return line that ends in the fuel tank. Since this a loop, the purpose of the check valve in the return line is prevent the return line from siphoning all the fuel out of the passages in the head. If that fuel is siphoned, then the fuel pump has to refill the passages before the injectors have any fuel. This is a chore on a Series 60 because the fuel pump is mechanical. It only pumps if the engine is turning over.

Ok, for the rest of the story, otherwise known as this one got me good. On our first stop out of Florida, the coach would not crank the next morning. Engine computer was ok, no codes, but no signs of firing. No smell of diesel at the exhaust. Fuel level was about 1/2 up the Davco bowl. Hmmmmmm. After grinding on it multiple times it tried to fire, and several grinds later, it cranked and ran smoothly. No problems for the 200 mile drive afterwards. At this point, I am pretty sure the engine just lost prime. 

A little giggle research shows bad hoses, loose connections, failed check valve in return line, and the scariest….failed o ring on an injector. 

Now, headed to Alaska, you just don’t want to wonder if your coach is going to start each morning, so I went into overdrive mentally. That is not a good thing. 

My next clue, was I marked the level of fuel in the Davco before shutting down, and then noticed it was several inches HIGHER the next morning. Ok, that is consistent with losing prime, the fuel is draining back from the head into the fuel filter. That points to a failed check valve. The only problem is that the check valve is purportedly on the back on the engine head. NO WAY to reach the back of the engine head to replace the valve without pulling the bathroom floor. Sigh. 

After sleeping on this it hits me that the fuel in the return line does not care where the check valve is located. So concoct a plan to cut the return line in an accessible place and splice in a check valve. More sleep, and it hits me to just install it where the return line enters the tank. No cutting of the fuel line involved.

I was removing the vanity panel to access the top of the tank when I got a pleasant surprise. When removing the fuel fill cap, it was obvious the tank was under a lot of vacuum. Huh? Yep, so much that the tank “bonged” when the cap was removed. Well that would explain why the fuel was draining out of the engine, a vacuum like that would pull the fuel back out of the lines. But why is the tank under vacuum. It has to be the vent line is stopped up. Fortunately, the vent line is readily accessible, so I disconnect it, and try to pull it free to inspect. I cannot pull it free. I have pinched it when I reinstalled the fuel tank this winter. I love it, happy dance, I have a smoking gun. I install a new vent line, and crank the beast. 

As I am looking at the top of the tank, I see that Newell installed a check valve in the fuel return line just before it enters the tank. Clever on their part. Far easier access than the rear of the engine. 

Enjoy your entertainment at my expense. FWIW, when you hear hoofbeats think horses not zebras. I just wish I could remind myself of that from time to time.]]> <![CDATA[DEF Crystals spraying out!]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7323 Tue, 25 Apr 2023 22:26:32 +0000 CaptainGizmo]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7323
.jpeg Leaking DEF.jpeg Size: 503.8 KB  Downloads: 253


I've replaced the DEF Doser, reprogrammed the ECM, and replaced the gasket and clamps after the crosspipe where the DEF has been dripping.

I'm not buying the excuse that "some just leak". Can't be right and I'm still not taking no for an answer.

Thought I'd throw it out for some brain power.]]>
.jpeg Leaking DEF.jpeg Size: 503.8 KB  Downloads: 253


I've replaced the DEF Doser, reprogrammed the ECM, and replaced the gasket and clamps after the crosspipe where the DEF has been dripping.

I'm not buying the excuse that "some just leak". Can't be right and I'm still not taking no for an answer.

Thought I'd throw it out for some brain power.]]> <![CDATA[Holley Universal floatless laser fuel level sender]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7274 Fri, 31 Mar 2023 16:56:56 +0000 MrE]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7274
Wondering if these would work for our holding tanks too.]]>
Wondering if these would work for our holding tanks too.]]> <![CDATA[DEF System Maintenance - Tank & Head Unit]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7226 Fri, 24 Feb 2023 15:59:17 +0000 hypoxia]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7226 I had a DEF quantity gauge that went from over half full to nearly empty causing a code.  If it would have gone to empty I would have been limited to 5 MPH from what I understand.  Of course it had to happen in Mexico.  I plan to pull the DEF Head out, flush/clean the tank and head unit, replace the suction filter on the head unit and see if there is any visible problem.  The DEF level sensor is replacible and there are testing procedures in the manual.
It is a great time to remove some of the hardware, bead blast & paint it.  DEF is corrosive and some has likely spilled in its lifetime.  I'm using POR15 as my paint, that stuff is bullet proof.
.pdf 2010-2017 Bluebird DEF Service Memorandum.pdf Size: 3.31 MB  Downloads: 20
]]> I had a DEF quantity gauge that went from over half full to nearly empty causing a code.  If it would have gone to empty I would have been limited to 5 MPH from what I understand.  Of course it had to happen in Mexico.  I plan to pull the DEF Head out, flush/clean the tank and head unit, replace the suction filter on the head unit and see if there is any visible problem.  The DEF level sensor is replacible and there are testing procedures in the manual.
It is a great time to remove some of the hardware, bead blast & paint it.  DEF is corrosive and some has likely spilled in its lifetime.  I'm using POR15 as my paint, that stuff is bullet proof.
.pdf 2010-2017 Bluebird DEF Service Memorandum.pdf Size: 3.31 MB  Downloads: 20
]]> <![CDATA[12 volt fuel shut down solenoid]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7221 Fri, 17 Feb 2023 05:53:10 +0000 Guy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7221 The wife says I have to give her cutting board back that I use to choke off the turbo  Smile
Thanks,
Guy
.jpg fuel solenoid 2.jpg Size: 4.7 MB  Downloads: 115

.jpg shut down solenoid 1.jpg Size: 4.68 MB  Downloads: 59
]]> The wife says I have to give her cutting board back that I use to choke off the turbo  Smile
Thanks,
Guy
.jpg fuel solenoid 2.jpg Size: 4.7 MB  Downloads: 115

.jpg shut down solenoid 1.jpg Size: 4.68 MB  Downloads: 59
]]> <![CDATA[Fuel Gauge Calibration]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7215 Sun, 12 Feb 2023 21:33:32 +0000 Richard]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7215
So I bought not one but two more. One from VDO and one from KUS because I liked the external bobber on the sender. 

Installed both the them and same result. The tank reads much lower below 3/4 tank than it is. I could prove this because I still had the senders external to the tank. I suspected a wiring issue, so I wired the sender directly to the gauge in the cockpit. Same result. 

I suspected faulty ground, so I made a new ground. Same result. 

Hmm, order a new gauge. 

Then I pulled the old gauge out, and discovered a mysterious screw hole on the side of the gauge. Bingo, I wired it all up on the bench with the KUS sender, and was able to adjust the gauge to read very close the actual level of the float. Woo Hoo, who knew. The variable ohm lettering on the side was a clue that the gauge may be adjustable. 

So, if your gauge is off, it’s something to look into.

Hmmm, cancel order for new gauge.
.jpeg 97FEB09C-91BE-4787-83CC-6491B7493B4F.jpeg Size: 2.52 MB  Downloads: 125

.jpeg 437108BD-1019-4DDA-93E2-17550E4368F6.jpeg Size: 2.27 MB  Downloads: 132

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.jpeg B1AC2B51-6880-4BEC-B6E3-0DB290C53988.jpeg Size: 2.41 MB  Downloads: 129
]]>
So I bought not one but two more. One from VDO and one from KUS because I liked the external bobber on the sender. 

Installed both the them and same result. The tank reads much lower below 3/4 tank than it is. I could prove this because I still had the senders external to the tank. I suspected a wiring issue, so I wired the sender directly to the gauge in the cockpit. Same result. 

I suspected faulty ground, so I made a new ground. Same result. 

Hmm, order a new gauge. 

Then I pulled the old gauge out, and discovered a mysterious screw hole on the side of the gauge. Bingo, I wired it all up on the bench with the KUS sender, and was able to adjust the gauge to read very close the actual level of the float. Woo Hoo, who knew. The variable ohm lettering on the side was a clue that the gauge may be adjustable. 

So, if your gauge is off, it’s something to look into.

Hmmm, cancel order for new gauge.
.jpeg 97FEB09C-91BE-4787-83CC-6491B7493B4F.jpeg Size: 2.52 MB  Downloads: 125

.jpeg 437108BD-1019-4DDA-93E2-17550E4368F6.jpeg Size: 2.27 MB  Downloads: 132

.jpeg 08BF6404-FBB4-42B3-9EF0-F0D0E99C99B4.jpeg Size: 2.41 MB  Downloads: 131

.jpeg B1AC2B51-6880-4BEC-B6E3-0DB290C53988.jpeg Size: 2.41 MB  Downloads: 129
]]> <![CDATA[Fuel Tank Operation With Out A Guage]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7210 Fri, 10 Feb 2023 21:23:47 +0000 Latitude 28]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7210 We are coach #525 and have a 275 gallon tank. We get 8.3 @ 65 mph towing a Honda CRV. Our tank is 27" tall so about 10 gallons of fuel per inch not counting the sump which is about four gallons.  The low level fuel switch (if it works) is 3" off the bottom of the tank (not the sump) thus when it goes off you have 30ish gallons usable fuel. The fuel pickup for the generator and Aqua Hot are about two inches off the bottom fuel tank and below the low fuel warning light....so they will quit working soon after the low level light comes on. The engine fuel pickup actually extends below the tank level into the sump 9about 1" off the bottom of the sump that you see from under the coach. So you have some really good indicators as to the end of the run for a tank of fuel. Oh, almost forgot. We allow about 12% of a tank fuel for generator and aqua hot usage which has worked out pretty close as to the way we operate.]]> We are coach #525 and have a 275 gallon tank. We get 8.3 @ 65 mph towing a Honda CRV. Our tank is 27" tall so about 10 gallons of fuel per inch not counting the sump which is about four gallons.  The low level fuel switch (if it works) is 3" off the bottom of the tank (not the sump) thus when it goes off you have 30ish gallons usable fuel. The fuel pickup for the generator and Aqua Hot are about two inches off the bottom fuel tank and below the low fuel warning light....so they will quit working soon after the low level light comes on. The engine fuel pickup actually extends below the tank level into the sump 9about 1" off the bottom of the sump that you see from under the coach. So you have some really good indicators as to the end of the run for a tank of fuel. Oh, almost forgot. We allow about 12% of a tank fuel for generator and aqua hot usage which has worked out pretty close as to the way we operate.]]> <![CDATA[REPLACE DEF DOSER ANNUALLY!]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7034 Wed, 19 Oct 2022 17:53:17 +0000 CaptainGizmo]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7034 I realize that the majority of the Gurus are "pre-Def'rs", but for those of us who are less fortunate, this will be of value.  Maybe...you can tell a friend in need.  Wink

I've posted this on the VIP group on FB, just to get the word out.

After quite a bit of research, I've learned that the DEF Doser is recommended to be replaced EVERY YEAR!  The injector gets corroded, and the efficiency diminishes and won't REGEN as effectively.  This can cause excess DEF leaking, Faults, and even a Derate.
In the case of my 2015 ISX, I have a strong feeling that's why I've got DEF crystals forming under my filter.  Plus, I'm seeing white specks stuck to the back of my rig and TOAD.
.jpeg Leaking DEF.jpeg Size: 503.8 KB  Downloads: 211
Kinda interesting how CUMMINS didn't mention, or have a clue about this after I've asked several times!
I first saw this info from a large diesel mechanic on youtube, but did more digging and found a CUMMINS schedule chart...and guess what?  Yup...every 12 months!  Yes, it says 150k, but REMEMBER...just as with tires, our coaches will AGE-OUT before MILING-out!  So, it's the case of "whichever comes first".
.png Doser Excerpt.png Size: 298.35 KB  Downloads: 201
Anyway, Cummins sells them for around $200, but the diesel shops suggest that you can get an eBay (or Amazon) version for $30 which works just fine.  So, I'll give that a shot!  I mean, what could go wrong?  Big Grin
BTW, I think we're in luck in terms of accessing the doser.  It appears as though Newell has a Stainless access panel between the battery and engine, which means we can access it from the TOP...wouldn't that be a welcomed change!
.jpeg Doser Access Panel.jpeg Size: 7.81 MB  Downloads: 208
]]> I realize that the majority of the Gurus are "pre-Def'rs", but for those of us who are less fortunate, this will be of value.  Maybe...you can tell a friend in need.  Wink

I've posted this on the VIP group on FB, just to get the word out.

After quite a bit of research, I've learned that the DEF Doser is recommended to be replaced EVERY YEAR!  The injector gets corroded, and the efficiency diminishes and won't REGEN as effectively.  This can cause excess DEF leaking, Faults, and even a Derate.
In the case of my 2015 ISX, I have a strong feeling that's why I've got DEF crystals forming under my filter.  Plus, I'm seeing white specks stuck to the back of my rig and TOAD.
.jpeg Leaking DEF.jpeg Size: 503.8 KB  Downloads: 211
Kinda interesting how CUMMINS didn't mention, or have a clue about this after I've asked several times!
I first saw this info from a large diesel mechanic on youtube, but did more digging and found a CUMMINS schedule chart...and guess what?  Yup...every 12 months!  Yes, it says 150k, but REMEMBER...just as with tires, our coaches will AGE-OUT before MILING-out!  So, it's the case of "whichever comes first".
.png Doser Excerpt.png Size: 298.35 KB  Downloads: 201
Anyway, Cummins sells them for around $200, but the diesel shops suggest that you can get an eBay (or Amazon) version for $30 which works just fine.  So, I'll give that a shot!  I mean, what could go wrong?  Big Grin
BTW, I think we're in luck in terms of accessing the doser.  It appears as though Newell has a Stainless access panel between the battery and engine, which means we can access it from the TOP...wouldn't that be a welcomed change!
.jpeg Doser Access Panel.jpeg Size: 7.81 MB  Downloads: 208
]]> <![CDATA[Fuel gauge sensing unit]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=6968 Fri, 09 Sep 2022 18:53:46 +0000 PMCBR]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=6968
.jpeg 31818358-8530-4823-AAE1-8C8F7881916D.jpeg Size: 2.72 MB  Downloads: 93
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.jpeg 7A4EE85A-5650-4406-B7A2-9942619F8903.jpeg Size: 2.58 MB  Downloads: 89
On top of my fuel tank the fuel gauge sensor pictured where can I get replacement]]>
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On top of my fuel tank the fuel gauge sensor pictured where can I get replacement]]> <![CDATA[Leaking diesel return line on C15]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=6967 Fri, 09 Sep 2022 01:34:19 +0000 Dhead]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=6967 changed the braided line to end with a push-on with 5/8" green plastic hose. Reaching under that found the leak (about a drop every 10 seconds). Doesn't sound like much, until it does it for weeks...
We were already surprised by the push on fitting and we got more surprised when it was an air fitting. I doubt much that the o-rings were viton. I talked to Newell parts and know one knows anything. I definitely don't want to go back to a push on air fitting. Tomorrow I will call Service. Every Newell has a return line. so somebody should have some ideas. Its low pressure too...
I'm leaning toward a 1/2" ID barb to a 1/2" NPT male fitting. 316 SS, It is good for diesel and I can put one or two worm drive clamps. McMaster-Carr 53505K73 appears to be close.
I've had no luck finding a 5/8" compression fitting with a 1/2" NPT male end that is built for a 5/8" hard hose for diesel, or a push-on for that matter.]]> changed the braided line to end with a push-on with 5/8" green plastic hose. Reaching under that found the leak (about a drop every 10 seconds). Doesn't sound like much, until it does it for weeks...
We were already surprised by the push on fitting and we got more surprised when it was an air fitting. I doubt much that the o-rings were viton. I talked to Newell parts and know one knows anything. I definitely don't want to go back to a push on air fitting. Tomorrow I will call Service. Every Newell has a return line. so somebody should have some ideas. Its low pressure too...
I'm leaning toward a 1/2" ID barb to a 1/2" NPT male fitting. 316 SS, It is good for diesel and I can put one or two worm drive clamps. McMaster-Carr 53505K73 appears to be close.
I've had no luck finding a 5/8" compression fitting with a 1/2" NPT male end that is built for a 5/8" hard hose for diesel, or a push-on for that matter.]]>