<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Air Conditioning]]>

<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Air Conditioning]]> https://newellgurus.com/ Wed, 03 Jun 2026 22:51:59 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Mini split recommendations]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8959 Fri, 15 May 2026 14:27:02 +0000 rvguy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8959 I am trying to get a recommendation on which is the easiest, cost effective replacement. my main concern is the basement ac unit that cools the front of the unit.

Question. Can i install 1 minisplit to run the entire coach and tie it into the original ductwork ? or is it better to have a wall mounted registers in 2 areas ? We just want the coach cold everywhere.
Will a 24000 btu cool the entire coach ? We live in the dallas ft worth area and it get hot..
will the unit run off existing wiring and breakers in coach ?
Any help would be appreciated. Jack I know you have done a few of these, maybe you can shead some light on it for me]]> I am trying to get a recommendation on which is the easiest, cost effective replacement. my main concern is the basement ac unit that cools the front of the unit.

Question. Can i install 1 minisplit to run the entire coach and tie it into the original ductwork ? or is it better to have a wall mounted registers in 2 areas ? We just want the coach cold everywhere.
Will a 24000 btu cool the entire coach ? We live in the dallas ft worth area and it get hot..
will the unit run off existing wiring and breakers in coach ?
Any help would be appreciated. Jack I know you have done a few of these, maybe you can shead some light on it for me]]> <![CDATA[Basement DuoTherm split AC Diagnostic]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8952 Fri, 08 May 2026 19:16:06 +0000 Rixson]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8952
I'm trying to hopefully think that it's something other than the fan motor itself...

So I opened it all up and I observed two things at the point in which activating the AC...
Okay three things.

One the motor and/or the fan blades squirrel cage seem to be occasionally touching the metal housing around it ven when I got it spinning for a while I could hear a little rub every now and again...
Not knowing how this is exactly constructed behind the fan blades I wanted to assume that there was another bearing on the other side of the fan to stabilize it but I don't think that's the case based on some pictures that I found elsewhere... Anyway fiddling was a bit I was able to get it to spend freely with my fingers sort of and then I turned on the Ac. That said the housing seems to flex more than I liked ..

Two after about 1 to 3 minutes of blower blowing appearing to be normal speed it just shut down Stop blowing which then causes the evaporator in the front to get very hot and shut down the whole unit...

The third thing I found was a little piece of rubber or foam ..appeared to be like maybe an old grommet or something else maybe insulation from somewhere inside the housing about the size of my thumb inside the squirrel cage...... I removed it before I did anything else but I think it's worthy to note is that might have warped the squirrel cage or may have come from somewhere else that I need to find out where it came from so I can replace it I failed to keep it It got thrown out with some other trash that I had there's just inconspicuous. Black colored foam... Or very deteriorated rubber.

So I think my question is is there electrical that could be interfering with this shutting down the motor or is this truly the motor locking up on its own is there a way to diagnose the difference...

Am I at a place I just need to order a new motor and swap it and see what happens..

I figured somebody else out here has got to have been in a similar situation and have some advice to give I'm all ears.... I just don't want to go deep dive into it if it's something I can just work on while it's still mounted in the rig.

Thanks for listening/reading.
Ron

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I'm trying to hopefully think that it's something other than the fan motor itself...

So I opened it all up and I observed two things at the point in which activating the AC...
Okay three things.

One the motor and/or the fan blades squirrel cage seem to be occasionally touching the metal housing around it ven when I got it spinning for a while I could hear a little rub every now and again...
Not knowing how this is exactly constructed behind the fan blades I wanted to assume that there was another bearing on the other side of the fan to stabilize it but I don't think that's the case based on some pictures that I found elsewhere... Anyway fiddling was a bit I was able to get it to spend freely with my fingers sort of and then I turned on the Ac. That said the housing seems to flex more than I liked ..

Two after about 1 to 3 minutes of blower blowing appearing to be normal speed it just shut down Stop blowing which then causes the evaporator in the front to get very hot and shut down the whole unit...

The third thing I found was a little piece of rubber or foam ..appeared to be like maybe an old grommet or something else maybe insulation from somewhere inside the housing about the size of my thumb inside the squirrel cage...... I removed it before I did anything else but I think it's worthy to note is that might have warped the squirrel cage or may have come from somewhere else that I need to find out where it came from so I can replace it I failed to keep it It got thrown out with some other trash that I had there's just inconspicuous. Black colored foam... Or very deteriorated rubber.

So I think my question is is there electrical that could be interfering with this shutting down the motor or is this truly the motor locking up on its own is there a way to diagnose the difference...

Am I at a place I just need to order a new motor and swap it and see what happens..

I figured somebody else out here has got to have been in a similar situation and have some advice to give I'm all ears.... I just don't want to go deep dive into it if it's something I can just work on while it's still mounted in the rig.

Thanks for listening/reading.
Ron

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Screenshot_20260508_150314_Aves.jpg Size: 855.4 KB Downloads: 65

Screenshot_20260508_150351_Aves.jpg Size: 1.69 MB Downloads: 63

]]> <![CDATA[Mach 15 A/C Fans Intermittent - Fixed]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8942 Fri, 01 May 2026 14:48:28 +0000 hypoxia]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8942 Supco SPP6 . Then I cleaned the evaporator coils and condenser coils. I checked the compressor terminals, they were good, it's not uncommon to find an overheated terminal on the compressor. I move the terminal back & forth to ensure a good connection. I spent wo days on that project, hopefully it cured the intermittent fan problem.]]> Supco SPP6 . Then I cleaned the evaporator coils and condenser coils. I checked the compressor terminals, they were good, it's not uncommon to find an overheated terminal on the compressor. I move the terminal back & forth to ensure a good connection. I spent wo days on that project, hopefully it cured the intermittent fan problem.]]> <![CDATA[a/c scs issues question]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8785 Sat, 13 Dec 2025 21:02:12 +0000 rvguy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8785

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]]> <![CDATA[Hmmmm Roof mount 24V HVAC]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8665 Mon, 08 Sep 2025 03:13:35 +0000 HoosierDaddy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8665 https://youtu.be/Ll4r-spFUeo?si=mO3HhKEqwQL0eoep]]> https://youtu.be/Ll4r-spFUeo?si=mO3HhKEqwQL0eoep]]> <![CDATA[Dash Air - no power to clutch]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8639 Tue, 12 Aug 2025 23:43:07 +0000 AlanJohnson]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8639
At front of coach, in front of passenger seat, I have found the relay that sends power to the clutch when the Dash AC switch is turned on. The relay works, and I have 12v coming out of the relay, presumably going from there to the back of the coach. And I do not see any fuses identified for the AC... but since I have power coming out of the relay, I assume wherever the fuse it located, it is ok.

At the rear of the coach, curb side access door, there are wiring terminals, I found the wire marked for AC clutch. 0 volts.

My questions:
1. Would there be any connections between where the wire leaves the relay located in front of passenger seat, and goes to the wire terminal at the rear of coach? The wire color, orange w/ yellow stripe, is the same at front and rear of the coach. Would the wire leave the relay and travel to a terminal post in front of passenger seat, before going to the rear of the coach? (I do not see any wire terminals identified as something to do with the AC at front of coach). It seems unlikely that wire got severed somewhere. It seems MORE likely there is some bad connector (that has been corroding and losing voltage). But I don't if there would be any other connection points... or where they would be before they get to the rear of the coach.

2. If I can't find this bad connector, I suppose I need to run a new wire from front to rear. Ugh. What would be easiest way to route a new wire?

I hope I my description of the problem makes sense. Thanks as always!
Alan Johnson]]>
At front of coach, in front of passenger seat, I have found the relay that sends power to the clutch when the Dash AC switch is turned on. The relay works, and I have 12v coming out of the relay, presumably going from there to the back of the coach. And I do not see any fuses identified for the AC... but since I have power coming out of the relay, I assume wherever the fuse it located, it is ok.

At the rear of the coach, curb side access door, there are wiring terminals, I found the wire marked for AC clutch. 0 volts.

My questions:
1. Would there be any connections between where the wire leaves the relay located in front of passenger seat, and goes to the wire terminal at the rear of coach? The wire color, orange w/ yellow stripe, is the same at front and rear of the coach. Would the wire leave the relay and travel to a terminal post in front of passenger seat, before going to the rear of the coach? (I do not see any wire terminals identified as something to do with the AC at front of coach). It seems unlikely that wire got severed somewhere. It seems MORE likely there is some bad connector (that has been corroding and losing voltage). But I don't if there would be any other connection points... or where they would be before they get to the rear of the coach.

2. If I can't find this bad connector, I suppose I need to run a new wire from front to rear. Ugh. What would be easiest way to route a new wire?

I hope I my description of the problem makes sense. Thanks as always!
Alan Johnson]]> <![CDATA[Silverleaf Roof Air TM-200 Failure - No Compressor - Followed By No Heat TM-200]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8624 Tue, 29 Jul 2025 20:28:47 +0000 hypoxia]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8624
Checked capacitors & PTCR, inspected compressor electrical connections & ohm checked compressor.  White Run wire on compressor had been overheated, cut it & replaced the end. Inside, removed ceiling cover & ﬁlter. Found +12VDC yellow compressor start wire disconnected and hanging loose.  Connected it to the Y terminal of the 8330-426 control. No compressor start. Checked Y wire with A/C on and snowﬂake showing on Silverleaf display which indicates compressor ON & found zero volts.

Called Newell for location of Silverleaf TM-200 which is located above co-pilot side window. The decorative panel is held on with two screws underneath & has straps attached to the wall for it to hang from. Newell had me swap #3 cable on the TM-200 to #2 & using the #2 A/C controls it started #3 which veriﬁed the TM-200 as the failure.

There are Two TM-200’s, one for AC1, AC2 & AC3 and the other for AC4. The TM- 200 used for AC4 has unused plugs for two other two positions.

Called Silverleaf, was advised to take a photo of the DIP switches on each of the two TM-200’s and swap the TM-200’s along with changing the DIP switch positions on each. I did that which cured the problem, all 4 A/C units now work.

You may ﬁnd a DIP switch covered with a yellowish covering. That is just plastic which can be peeled oﬀ, I used a ﬁngernail.

Rooftop AC Compressor Inop Silverleaf TM200 Failure and Repair.pdf Size: 1.83 MB Downloads: 4

Doorbell Silverleaf TM220 Heat Control TM200 AC Controls above copilot side window.JPG Size: 1.21 MB Downloads: 109

Silverleaf TM200 for AC1 Salon AC2 Kitchen AC3 Bedroom.JPG Size: 1.47 MB Downloads: 111

Silverleaf TM200 for Rear Bath AC.JPG Size: 1.31 MB Downloads: 110

Thermostat Connections on AC Control in ceiling under filter.JPG Size: 1.12 MB Downloads: 107

PTCR on AC3.JPG Size: 2.37 MB Downloads: 106

Condensate Pump and Mach 15 wiring diagram.JPG Size: 1.35 MB Downloads: 14

AC3 Compressor Wiring showing burnt white wire.JPG Size: 2.96 MB Downloads: 12

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Checked capacitors & PTCR, inspected compressor electrical connections & ohm checked compressor. White Run wire on compressor had been overheated, cut it & replaced the end. Inside, removed ceiling cover & ﬁlter. Found +12VDC yellow compressor start wire disconnected and hanging loose. Connected it to the Y terminal of the 8330-426 control. No compressor start. Checked Y wire with A/C on and snowﬂake showing on Silverleaf display which indicates compressor ON & found zero volts.

Called Newell for location of Silverleaf TM-200 which is located above co-pilot side window. The decorative panel is held on with two screws underneath & has straps attached to the wall for it to hang from. Newell had me swap #3 cable on the TM-200 to #2 & using the #2 A/C controls it started #3 which veriﬁed the TM-200 as the failure.

There are Two TM-200’s, one for AC1, AC2 & AC3 and the other for AC4. The TM- 200 used for AC4 has unused plugs for two other two positions.

Called Silverleaf, was advised to take a photo of the DIP switches on each of the two TM-200’s and swap the TM-200’s along with changing the DIP switch positions on each. I did that which cured the problem, all 4 A/C units now work.

You may ﬁnd a DIP switch covered with a yellowish covering. That is just plastic which can be peeled oﬀ, I used a ﬁngernail.

Rooftop AC Compressor Inop Silverleaf TM200 Failure and Repair.pdf Size: 1.83 MB Downloads: 4

Doorbell Silverleaf TM220 Heat Control TM200 AC Controls above copilot side window.JPG Size: 1.21 MB Downloads: 109

Silverleaf TM200 for AC1 Salon AC2 Kitchen AC3 Bedroom.JPG Size: 1.47 MB Downloads: 111

Silverleaf TM200 for Rear Bath AC.JPG Size: 1.31 MB Downloads: 110

Thermostat Connections on AC Control in ceiling under filter.JPG Size: 1.12 MB Downloads: 107

PTCR on AC3.JPG Size: 2.37 MB Downloads: 106

Condensate Pump and Mach 15 wiring diagram.JPG Size: 1.35 MB Downloads: 14

AC3 Compressor Wiring showing burnt white wire.JPG Size: 2.96 MB Downloads: 12

]]> <![CDATA[SCS Basement Air Conditioner Saga]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8600 Wed, 02 Jul 2025 12:08:48 +0000 pairodice]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8600 Problem: I put a hole in the ac condenser coil which is aluminum… bright it to a local welder and they say the hole is too close to the end to fix :-(
Where can I source a new condenser please?
I hope I am calling it the right thing - it’s the big radiator looking thing on the outside of the ac unit…
TIA!!!

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]]> Problem: I put a hole in the ac condenser coil which is aluminum… bright it to a local welder and they say the hole is too close to the end to fix :-(
Where can I source a new condenser please?
I hope I am calling it the right thing - it’s the big radiator looking thing on the outside of the ac unit…
TIA!!!

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]]> <![CDATA[AC HI/LO on condenser and evap fans.]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8500 Thu, 26 Jun 2025 17:44:57 +0000 Gem930]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8500
Thanks in advance for any information.

Gregg Miley
530-228-5399]]>
Thanks in advance for any information.

Gregg Miley
530-228-5399]]> <![CDATA[Trip directly to He!!]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8494 Sun, 22 Jun 2025 23:58:22 +0000 pairodice]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8494 <![CDATA[316 Updates]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8474 Mon, 09 Jun 2025 02:06:23 +0000 HoosierDaddy]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8474

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I spent my spare time over the winter updating 316.
I installed a Growatt 6k invertor/charger and an LG mini-split system. The pics show the condenser unit (24k BTU) in the bay that formerly held four of the six house batteries. It draws air up through the floor behind the unit. You can see the ducting next to the battery rack. The air is then exhausted out the side. The next bay houses the Growatt, the two Litime 8D size 24 volt Lithium batteries, two Victron 48/12 volt charge controllers that feed 12 volt to charge the two 8D AGM house batts and the engine start batts. The inside pics show the low-wall mounted unit(15k BTU) positioned just behind the driver seat and an upper wall unit(9k BTU) on the back wall in the rear bedroom. I have eight 450 watt solar panels that I plan to install ASAP.
All work was done by me in my shop with the help of a couple buddies who assisted with routing the refrigerant lines. I was quite challenged because much of the skills needed were learn as I go.... Trial and error!!!
I would like to thank Jack Houpe for helping me with most of the technical decisions, patiently explaining how things work, helping me correct my mistakes, and "talking me off the ledge" about midway through when the project seemed overwhelming!!]]> <![CDATA[SCS A/C 1301 fan motor swap]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8463 Sat, 31 May 2025 20:48:20 +0000 whited44]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8463
I had to grind off most of the screw heads and prying to get it out. I set the unit on a motorcycle Jack and left the wires hooked up.

I removed pretty much all the guts to get the fan motor out. I sprayed the coils with that rv ac coil cleaner and washed it out with the hose real good.

This also gave me some access to the void inside of both of these units underneath the salon so I could sweep it out pretty good too.

For some reason there was a plexiglass cover on the bottom of the floor of the storage compartment. I got rid of that and am going to rust proof the compartment floor and put a piece of stainless down prior to putting the unit back in.

Looking for a fan motor if anyone has a lead that would be great. More to come. Here are some pics

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I had to grind off most of the screw heads and prying to get it out. I set the unit on a motorcycle Jack and left the wires hooked up.

I removed pretty much all the guts to get the fan motor out. I sprayed the coils with that rv ac coil cleaner and washed it out with the hose real good.

This also gave me some access to the void inside of both of these units underneath the salon so I could sweep it out pretty good too.

For some reason there was a plexiglass cover on the bottom of the floor of the storage compartment. I got rid of that and am going to rust proof the compartment floor and put a piece of stainless down prior to putting the unit back in.

Looking for a fan motor if anyone has a lead that would be great. More to come. Here are some pics

IMG_5386.jpeg Size: 2.54 MB Downloads: 264

IMG_5389.jpeg Size: 3.57 MB Downloads: 259

IMG_5396.jpeg Size: 3.58 MB Downloads: 251

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]]> <![CDATA[Dash Air Not Cooling Coach 1482 Resolved]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8451 Thu, 22 May 2025 23:09:02 +0000 hypoxia]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8451
I opened up the front Spyder Control Panel (fuse panel) in the front compressor bay & started tapping on the relays. Voila! one relay clicked & I heard the fan running! I was able to duplicate the problem by putting up & down pressure on the relay. Up pressure caused the fan to quit. I replaced the relay which resolved the problem.

I'm still suspicious of the solder joint on the board but could not duplicate the problem once the relay was replaced.

Newell 1482 Dash Air History.pdf Size: 354.83 KB Downloads: 31

]]>
I opened up the front Spyder Control Panel (fuse panel) in the front compressor bay & started tapping on the relays. Voila! one relay clicked & I heard the fan running! I was able to duplicate the problem by putting up & down pressure on the relay. Up pressure caused the fan to quit. I replaced the relay which resolved the problem.

I'm still suspicious of the solder joint on the board but could not duplicate the problem once the relay was replaced.

Newell 1482 Dash Air History.pdf Size: 354.83 KB Downloads: 31

]]> <![CDATA[1983 Newell AC refrigerant]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8427 Tue, 22 Apr 2025 01:52:35 +0000 FittedBuckle]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8427 <![CDATA[Removal of front basement air unit]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8351 Tue, 28 Jan 2025 19:19:48 +0000 scottsutherland]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8351